Initial resize of 6.5x47 to 6mm

[DWH]

I am about to load for my first 6x47mm. When resizing virgin 6.5x47L brass to 6mm for 6x47mm I have read to just 'run them through a standard f/l resizer'....

1) When doing this should the die be screwed right down so it touches the shell holder to resize the whole neck length? Presumably it wont chamber unless it is.

2) I have a Redding F/L bushing die,with .269 bushing as advised by PTG for reamer used). Will this be OK for initial resize or should a standard F/L resizer be better?

3) After resizing, how do you get rid of the lube before loading - tumble the cases? or wipe down and inside necks with something?

4) I have heard that 6x47mm brass can be made from 22-250. Is this right and successful/worthwhile? If so what do you need to do? The 6.5x47mm brass in the UK is £100/100!!,$160) ....not sure why mind you?


Any help gratefully received

DWH

 

[Preacher]

Screw the die down till it shows that your sizing exactly to the end of the neck shoulder junction.... I like to leave a tiny ledge that is not sized right below that.
You do not want to push the shoulder back at all.........

 

[vlcakc]

I neck down 6.5X47L to 6mm in one pass with a Forester FL die. I intended to buy a bushing die later, but the FL die fits my chamber so well that I never bothered with the bushing die. You may not be able to resize the neck all the way to the shoulder with the bushing die. Also, you may need to neck down in smaller increments using several bushings. You are looking for a light crush fit of the new brass in the chamber. Never, never, screw the die down tight on the shell holder without checking the fit of the resized brass in the chamber. Screw the die down just enough to ensure the brass fits the chamber and no more. I have several bushing dies and like them a lot, however, there are times they are not the best tool for the job at hand. Good shooting, Vic

 

[JZ1each]

DWH,

I have made 6x47L brass out of REM and WIN 22-250 brass. I did the same thing the guys that are making their own 6XC brass do - run the 22-250 case in the 6x47L die, trim to lenght and then fire form it. I'll say they do look a nasty but all fire form just fine. I've also made some 6x47L brass from some 308 Lapua brass I had just to see if I could do it. They turned out fine but it was WAY to much work.

What part of England?

Hope this helps,
Joe

 

[flatlander]

DWH - I've long wondered why the 6.5x47 brass is priced so much higher than Lapua's 6BR, given the same QC checks and that it's apparently nothing more than a BR case made .300' longer. The only real reason I see for Lapua charging so much more is simply because they can.

Whatever - I've built myself three rifles chambered for 6x47L, and have been very pleased with all of them. All I've ever done as far as case forming goes is to spray necks,inside & out)lightly with Hornady One-Shot lube, then run them into a Forster 6x47 FL die. I adjust the die so that I can feel a stripped bolt close on the case,re: the crush fit the other fellows are talking about). What you want is to leave a very tiny 'false shoulder' consisting of the original 6.5 neck to hold the casehead back against the boltface when you chamber the round for the first firing. It doesn't take much to accomplish this - IOW, you don't want a case so difficult to chamber that you run the risk of galling the bolt's lugs.

After sizing necks down to 6mm, I tumble the cases in plain corncob media to remove the lube, then chamfer the mouths. I got into the habit of uniforming & deburring flash holes a long time ago - it's debatable whether there's any benefit in doing this to Lapua 6.5x47 brass, but I still go through with it. My reamer has a .273' neck, and while I've considered turning necks, results with all three rifles have been so consistently good that I've not pursued it.