Another Stupid Question about resizing 6.5x47 to 6x47

[dstoenner]

Folks, a quick update on my progress. My Whidden FL bushing die came in the mail tonight with two bushings .274 and .269. I spent some time documenting average shoulders and case mouth wall thickness. I chamfered the outside of all the cases mouths and used Imperial case lube in preparation for the first squeeze.

I am following DSTOENNER's method but using different bushings to ease the resizing.

I removed the expander from the Whidden die and use my GoGauge to set the cam throw of my press. Put the .274 bushing in and proceeded on step 1. Wall thickness unchanged and shoulder bump unchanged after doing 200 cases. I put in the .269 and did several cases. Again. neck wall thickness unchanged and shoulder bump unchanged. Everything looks and feels good! My barrel is at the smith getting threaded for a brake so I can't test chambering. I wouldn't say there is a bulge but rather not as sharp an angle at the neck and shoulder as I would have liked. I am assuming once I fire form and run the FL die per Whidden's instructions (basically bumping the shoulder back .003-.005") I will see the neck sized all the way down to the shoulder/neck junction and it will be clean, well defined and sharp. If not I will proceed to neck turning. Wall thickness after using the .269 is .0126" on average, which is unchanged from my initial measurements of the virgin Lapua brass.

Stay tuned! BB

Unless I am missing something a .269 bushing isn't giving you any neck tension, especially if the neck springs back just a little. Have you measured your ID on the neck after your 2 operations?

David

 

[Badbob]

Unless I am missing something a .269 bushing isn't giving you any neck tension, especially if the neck springs back just a little. Have you measured your ID on the neck after your 2 operations?

David

Not directly. I did test one of my Berger 105s and I cannot hand press it in. But it was getting late and needed to hit the sack.

But I agree I will probably have to finalize the neck with something more like a .267.

I just did an average calculation on my wall thickness and it is .0129, thickest was .0136, skinniest was .0124. I was expecting more like .014". My chamber is .274" with .003" clearance and no trimmed neck I think .267 or .268 bushing should be fine. The real question is: do I have one?

I may skim/trim the necks for uniformity but don't really want to if I can get away with it.

cheers! BB

 

[4xforfun]

Stock item at Sinclair Int. Redding type "S" Match Die Set. Redding # 38415. Sinclair part number 749 008 179WS. Comes with the body die, Bushing neck die, and Comp bullet seater with the micrometer.

Good stuff,
Tod

SORRY...WRONG PART #'S...THIS PART # IS FOR MY 6.5-285 DIE SET!!!

SORRY

PART # FOR MY 6-47L IS 38489

 

[okie]

SORRY...WRONG PART #'S...THIS PART # IS FOR MY 6.5-285 DIE SET!!!

SORRY

PART # FOR MY 6-47L IS 38489

got it
thanks

 

[Clancy]

I bought a bushing die recently. I got the exact same shoulder measurements on both of my chambers (22 and 6.5) so I’m guessing I’ll just set it up and swap bushings back and forth.

 

[Badbob]

I bought a bushing die recently. I got the exact same shoulder measurements on both of my chambers (22 and 6.5) so I’m guessing I’ll just set it up and swap bushings back and forth.

I don't take anything for granted. Mainly because I'm pretty new to all this and measurements seem to mysteriously change. So I'd setup with a gogauge, measure a virgin case, neck one, measure the case again and note any differences and then check chambering. I guess the big concern would be that you don't bump the shoulder to far and that you size the neck as close to the neck shoulder junction as possible. BB

 

[Clancy]

I may have confused you. My fired cases are exactly the same when measured with the comparator. 2.509”. If I bump them .001 they’re obviously 2.508”. Just a coincidence that they were exactly the same.

Setting anything up with virgin brass is going to lead to problems more than likely

 

[Badbob]

quick update. I got a .269 bushing die and have done the second sizing and everything looks good. My finished OD neck is .2705 to .271" My neck is .273. I think I'm going to leave it and go right to fire forming without turning the necks.

David, I'm curious what is your neck chamber diameter?

the only thing so far that bugs me is that the lapua brass is not consistently concentric at the neck--I mean the wall thickness is not. Send my measurements to the lapua rep and he said it was "in spec." Another case for turning. I guess I could turn them after fire forming.

The worse of ten measured was .001" difference. I measured 4 sides. Most are around .0007" out--that is the subtracting the thinnest side from the thickest.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciate. BB

 

[SG4247]

And...that is the reason I turn the necks right out of the blue box.

I dont want to move forward in the brass forming process, with the wall thickness variation.

 

[dstoenner]

Bob

The reamer print that McGowen provided me shows a neck of .272. My chamber cast measures .273 while the groves measure .243 on the chamber cast so I would believe it is close to .273.

A loaded round for my neck turned cases is .269 so I am happy with that. Having now put 283 rounds down range for both barrel break in and fire forming I can say that the cases come out nice and straight and require only a .266 sizing bushing.

What you are measuring in neck thickness variation is what I saw on a lot of cases I turned. That is why I turn every neck including Lapua. Consistentancy is what we are striving for. So far on the fire forming I am seeing a lot of groups where there are 3 shots touching and then 1 or 2 shots open up the group to maybe .8 inches at 100 yards. Next weekend I start load development. I hope to see even better results

David

 

[fredo]

For those with Redding Type S FL dies to size down 6.5x47L, try runnin' a 6mm carbide expander button on the decapping stem...

 

[ChrisNZ]

This from an older identical thread:

To quote myself, " I tried the Forster Fl die and despite plenty of ISW, it ruined about one in two cases. Using the 6x47 body die first then the Redding neck-sizer bushing die produced the perfect result."

The body die has a "neck" dimension somewhere about half way down, so that's why it works so well.

 

[Badbob]

I suppose I could trim .0005 or .001 off the necks and run .003 to .0035" clearance between the case and chamber.

That would still be considered a tight necked champber, right? And would contribute to the highest level of accuracy?

Thanks! BB

 

[Bugd]

I've always had good luck with the 6x47 Redding bushing die I use the expander ball when necking down, use plenty of lube, I've seen the belling of the neck I think it's caused from not enough slack or movement in the bushing, shoot then turn the necks just enough to clean em up. Never had any problems. Buddy of mine had trouble with a Forster crushing the side of the necks he sent it back now no troubles.

 

[Badbob]

At this point I'm not sure if I should trim the base of the neck where there is a slight bulge. I could FF then re-evaluate and then shave the necks. With a .275 chamber and a OD neck of .270 with berger 105s I'm relunctant to shave the necks since I have plenty of clearance.

I did shave the base of the neck on 3-4. the trimmer is leaving a slight burr, or ridge at the base. I have to use a 10x lupe to see it, but it is there. FF might help with a more pronounced shoulder to neck junction that when trimmed, after FF, could possibly eliminate the burr, or ridge.

 

[dennisinaz]

I have had much better luck neck turning while it is still 6.5mm. I run it over a K&N mandrel and then neck turn it in my lathe. I only take off about .0009-.0012. This cleans up the necks, and prevents a donut from forming. I just chambered a 6x47 last week but am waiting on parts before I can shoot this chamber. Seemed to turn out nice, though.

When neck turning before sizing down, you put a little bit of the now thinner neck into the shoulder. This is why there is no donut. The expander mandrel irons the inside out so you get good clean up on the turn.

 

[Idaho-45]

Well Gentlemen, my 6x47 Redding Body die showed up in the mail a day or so back. I got this after reading some of the posts here. On the first trial of sizing down 6.5--6mm, using a Forster FLS die, I experienced an unacceptable number of crooked case mouths & ugly shapes. I didn't like what i was seeing. So, jump to today, I used a small amount of Imperial sizing wax, & ran Virgin 6.5x47L brass into body die, being careful to just barely size the entire neck section. Then, putting 6x47 Forster FLS die back in, & run cases back through. I'm happy to report all case necks formed down well, & no crooked case mouths, or odd shapes. So, hopefully, I've found the system for my brass forming. Hope this helps someone!!!!! Thanks for all the Great Info on this sight!!!!!!!!!! Idaho-45

 

[loneranger04]

I’m having a barrel made for my Bighorn TL2 in 6x47 and so have been searching for info on sizing brass. It looks like a lot of shooters like the Forester FL non bushing die so I ordered one and it has finally came in. I don’t have a barrel yet so I haven’t tried sizing any brass yet and with the cost I’m afraid of ruining any brass by experimenting and several of you have had problems sizing down this way. Several years ago I moved from .308 to .260 and sold most of my Lapua.308 brass but I did, as an experiment, size some down to .260 with excellent results. My loading method has been to bump shoulders with with a Redding body die then to size necks with a Lee Collet Die. Has always provided me with near zero runout but Lee doesn’t stock a 6x47 collet die and I don’t want to have a custom one made at the cost of $75 but... looks like that may be the best bet.

 

[Whiskey4]

Lots of good information here. Thanks everyone.

 

[loneranger04]

Here’s an update on my reloading procedure that has worked very well. I finally received my barrel and have been working up loads for the last two months. I’m using my Forster FL die with the expander ball removed from the stem and sizing with Imperial wax. I’m getting the flare on virgin brass like others have seen but I then run it through a 21st Century expander die with a .241 Tn mandrel. Takes the flare out and runout has been zero. Bullet seating has been very smooth and consistent on once fired brass as soon as the case gets a little carbon in the necks. SDs have been single digit. I’m getting good groups even using virgin brass but once fired works better.
On another note I’ve struggled getting this barrel to shoot consistent small groups. I’ve got a 7.5 twist and was hoping to shoot the 110 SMK but it hates those. I finally found sub 1/2 moa groups with Varget and 105 Hybrids but can’t run them much over 2800 FPS for any Accuracy.