Yes as Gina indicated if you increase the voltage you will cut down the time significantly. I think that 36V may be the sweet spot. I have a 48V but have it turned down as far as it will go which is 45V. The downside of a a too high Voltage is that the temprature increase rate is very high. A high increase rate means there is more likelihood of overshooting the desired temperature, or not being able to hold a constant temperature for a period of time.
Induction brass annealer redux
- Thread starter Gina1
- Start date
Chuck,
17 amps at 24 volts on your multi-meter show typical short in your coil circuit.
On the other hand, the 6-7 amps on the ammeter with no load is puzzling.
I suspect the ammeter and the shunt resistor have different ratings (50 or 100 millivolts) If this is the case , the no-load should be 12-14 amps, which suggests a short in the coil circuit.
If not the two above, then your ZVS is not working properly.
17 amps at 24 volts on your multi-meter show typical short in your coil circuit.
On the other hand, the 6-7 amps on the ammeter with no load is puzzling.
I suspect the ammeter and the shunt resistor have different ratings (50 or 100 millivolts) If this is the case , the no-load should be 12-14 amps, which suggests a short in the coil circuit.
If not the two above, then your ZVS is not working properly.
When i look at this picture, i think this is not a 1/8" tubing. It look's to me, that it is the original tube which was delivered with the Board.
I Will increase the tubes and decrease one turn on the coil.
The tubing is 1/8 for sure.
Hi guys,
new to this forum but was reading quite a while. Great community - really impressed about all the great stuff - lot's to learn here.
Now I also finished my annealer based on the forum input (at least I thought) but now it is not working. Have a 48V 750W power supply and the 1000W ZVS board. Here's what's happening; when I switch it on (on the DC side with relais, but same when I use a simple switch) - It takes no amps, the voltage is breaking down to 2-3 V. The fan in the power supply stops working and the green LED on the board is flickering and goes down. Switching off the board the power supply comes back and delivers the 48V again.
Anybody who has an idea what to do? Board broken - maybe the IRFP 260 N mosfet's? The windings of the coil were close to each other, most probably that was the initial problem, now I seperated them.
Also tried with a second power supply (24V only) same problem. All parts are brand new.
Add a few fotos of the build. Already so many good ones around here but don't just want to ask questions but also contribute a bit...
PS: English is not my first language - in case my wording is not always the best -that's the reason
new to this forum but was reading quite a while. Great community - really impressed about all the great stuff - lot's to learn here.
Now I also finished my annealer based on the forum input (at least I thought) but now it is not working. Have a 48V 750W power supply and the 1000W ZVS board. Here's what's happening; when I switch it on (on the DC side with relais, but same when I use a simple switch) - It takes no amps, the voltage is breaking down to 2-3 V. The fan in the power supply stops working and the green LED on the board is flickering and goes down. Switching off the board the power supply comes back and delivers the 48V again.
Anybody who has an idea what to do? Board broken - maybe the IRFP 260 N mosfet's? The windings of the coil were close to each other, most probably that was the initial problem, now I seperated them.
Also tried with a second power supply (24V only) same problem. All parts are brand new.
Add a few fotos of the build. Already so many good ones around here but don't just want to ask questions but also contribute a bit...
PS: English is not my first language - in case my wording is not always the best -that's the reason
Attachments
itchyTF
Gold $$ Contributor
Very nice looking build. Nice tig welding on what looks like a water reservoir. As to your problem, sure sounds like a short somewhere. You said you separated the windings, was that before or after the picture? They look to be touching in the picture. My build doesn't use a ZVS board so I'm wondering if it can be powered up without the coil attached? If you still have the problem I would disconnect the power supply and find something close to a 750 watt load (3 ohms) to load it. If you don't have access to power resistors you could wire up a number of light bulbs to get the equivalent. If that works the power supply is ok. If the supply is ok and the ZVS can be powered up without the coil, then I guess the problem is the ZVS under load. Your cooling fluid wouldn't be highly conductive would it? Is your height adjustment mechanism made out of metal (aluminum)? If so, it could be too close to the coil.
Thanks a lot for your input. Picture is actually before separation of the windings, add one foto as it is now. In the meantime I took out the board and wanted to solder out the mosfets to check. was a bit shocked what I found. Somebody already worked ot that board even so it was sold as new on Amazon. I enclose a picture too. Have to see what I can find to check the power supply. 48V DC is not so common....
In the meantime I believe it will be the board. Two new ones are ordered.
The hight adjustment is made from polyamide, just the two guides right and left are stainess steel but they should be away enought. Will check if they get warm once I get the thing working.
In the meantime I believe it will be the board. Two new ones are ordered.
The hight adjustment is made from polyamide, just the two guides right and left are stainess steel but they should be away enought. Will check if they get warm once I get the thing working.
Attachments
I cut one coil turn but it increase the amp from 6 to 7 amp.
I bought a new power supply, but I think the problem should be the induction heater.
Let's try.
I bought a new power supply, but I think the problem should be the induction heater.
Let's try.
Thats a really nice build. As others have said the power supply is indicating a short. It is most likely a mosfet but I would remove the coil and any other paths to ground and then check the resistance paths against the circuit. I went down this route at one stage as well.Hi guys,
new to this forum but was reading quite a while. Great community - really impressed about all the great stuff - lot's to learn here.
Now I also finished my annealer based on the forum input (at least I thought) but now it is not working. Have a 48V 750W power supply and the 1000W ZVS board. Here's what's happening; when I switch it on (on the DC side with relais, but same when I use a simple switch) - It takes no amps, the voltage is breaking down to 2-3 V. The fan in the power supply stops working and the green LED on the board is flickering and goes down. Switching off the board the power supply comes back and delivers the 48V again.
Anybody who has an idea what to do? Board broken - maybe the IRFP 260 N mosfet's? The windings of the coil were close to each other, most probably that was the initial problem, now I seperated them.
Also tried with a second power supply (24V only) same problem. All parts are brand new.
Add a few fotos of the build. Already so many good ones around here but don't just want to ask questions but also contribute a bit...
PS: English is not my first language - in case my wording is not always the best -that's the reason
The auto oscillation is a bit of black magic and makes fault finding a little more difficult than a straight DC circuit. Good Luck
Good morning all.
I'm new to this forum and to begin with I would like to thank Gina1 and Hollywood for this great topic.
I built a prototype last year that I unfortunately burned in April before discovering this very rich discussion.
I started again from zero in May but I could not go to the end because I was the victim of a myocardial infarction. Now that all is well, I have finally finished the machine. You will find below one picture which I hope you will like.
Friendships to all.
D.
Ps: sorry for my english, i am French
I'm new to this forum and to begin with I would like to thank Gina1 and Hollywood for this great topic.
I built a prototype last year that I unfortunately burned in April before discovering this very rich discussion.
I started again from zero in May but I could not go to the end because I was the victim of a myocardial infarction. Now that all is well, I have finally finished the machine. You will find below one picture which I hope you will like.
Friendships to all.
D.
Ps: sorry for my english, i am French
Attachments
Hi guys,
almost desperate in the meantime as I don't get my annealer to work - any help warmly welcome.
Have received two new ZVS 1000W boards and checked them carefully - used that proceedure and found all ok:
Pete's 1000 Watt 12 to 48 Volt ZVS Induction Heater Troubleshooting Guide
But after putting one into the unit - exactly the same problem: Ventilator in the power supply stops and voltage goes down to around 3V, current around 1,6 A. Without a load the unit delivers 48V and the amp meter also shows 1,6A (why actually without a load?)
No idea any more. Do you think the power supply is broken? I posted earlier that I tried already anoher one with 24 V but that one had only 5A I just noticed - so maybe that test was not representative as to low in power.
The power supply I use is a 750w 48V, have no alternative load to check it. Just tried with one 220V 100W light bulb, that works.(glowing gentle only)
Really lost now...and hoped to have it up and running before x-mas....
almost desperate in the meantime as I don't get my annealer to work - any help warmly welcome.
Have received two new ZVS 1000W boards and checked them carefully - used that proceedure and found all ok:
Pete's 1000 Watt 12 to 48 Volt ZVS Induction Heater Troubleshooting Guide
But after putting one into the unit - exactly the same problem: Ventilator in the power supply stops and voltage goes down to around 3V, current around 1,6 A. Without a load the unit delivers 48V and the amp meter also shows 1,6A (why actually without a load?)
No idea any more. Do you think the power supply is broken? I posted earlier that I tried already anoher one with 24 V but that one had only 5A I just noticed - so maybe that test was not representative as to low in power.
The power supply I use is a 750w 48V, have no alternative load to check it. Just tried with one 220V 100W light bulb, that works.(glowing gentle only)
Really lost now...and hoped to have it up and running before x-mas....
Attachments
itchyTF
Gold $$ Contributor
Did you measure the current when you connected the light bulb? I would add enough bulbs to pull full power from the supply to eliminate that as a possible problem.
I am unfamiliar with the circuitry of the ZVS board but you might try measuring resistance at the input terminals (where the power supply connects but without the power supply).
I am unfamiliar with the circuitry of the ZVS board but you might try measuring resistance at the input terminals (where the power supply connects but without the power supply).
Without having your build right in front of me, it is difficult to troubleshoot a build.
Somewhere you have a short, that is loading down your 48 volt power supply.
In looking at your latest photos I noticed that the tubing going to your coil is going through your case with almost no clearance through the case, could these be touching the case, giving you the short. AND along those lines the case should be cut back from where the tubing goes through the case. It should be at least 2 inches. That close to the case will induce parasitic induction into the case (case gets warm).
If that is not the problem, them most likely you have a wiring error. A quick way to check out your components is to disassemble your build. Connect the 48 volt power supply, through a simple on/ off switch to the ZVS board, connected to your coil..(remove your coil and ZVS from the case) With the 48 volt power supply on and a spent rifle case in the coil turn on the switch for a second or two (since your not water cooling the coil, do not leave it on too long. If your rifle case gets hot then your ZVS and power supply is good.
Just something to try. Let me know how that works out.
Good luck
Gina
You need to have insulating grommets fitted to the metal box where the brass tubes from the annealer pass through. I would also suggest you make those holes quite a bit bigger so you have definite clearance around the brass tubes. I suggest what may be happening is the current is getting absorbed into the metal case and it is acting like a short circuit. I am an amateur so just a guess from me.
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