Induction brass annealer redux

[Gina1]

Thanks for that and the line Voltage is 240 volts and thought I got a 240v contactor but will double check that

Since your voltage is 240 volts the varistor that is called out in the parts list may have too low of voltage and is shorting out with a 240 volts.
If you have the correct voltage on the relay try disconnecting one lead of the varistor to see if it is not shorting out and blowing your fuse
Gina

 

[Ross Tait]

Thanks for that and the line Voltage is 240 volts and thought I got a 240v contactor but will double check that

Just checked and seems to be for 240v and a picture is attached to see what your thoughts are

 

[McHaggis]

I could be wrong Ross but that looks like a 24vac coil to me. Not 240vac.
If it is that will surely give your fuses a hard time. Maybe try Redpaths, Telfers, etc to see if they have or can get you a suitable relay. Failing that there’s always Ebay but the items out of China usually don’t show up for 2-3months so go for items out of the USA if you go Ebay . Ask me how I know
I’m also in NZ and am about to build one. I’ve been stashing parts for 5 months and I’m still waiting on the amp meter.

 

[Gina1]

Just checked and seems to be for 240v and a picture is attached to see what your thoughts are

Ross.... Bad news, it is a 24 volt relay. Upper right hand on the label " coil 24 VAC 50/60HZ" Sorry.

Gina

 

[GrocMax]

For those unfamiliar with relays/contactors, the contact voltage ratings and the operating coil voltage ratings can be different, be sure and double check. For most contactors, the coil is available separately and you can choose a wide variety of coil operation voltages.

 

[Ross Tait]

I could be wrong Ross but that looks like a 24vac coil to me. Not 240vac.
If it is that will surely give your fuses a hard time. Maybe try Redpaths, Telfers, etc to see if they have or can get you a suitable relay. Failing that there’s always Ebay but the items out of China usually don’t show up for 2-3months so go for items out of the USA if you go Ebay . Ask me how I know
I’m also in NZ and am about to build one. I’ve been stashing parts for 5 months and I’m still waiting on the amp meter.

Ok thanks for that

 

[davexre]

I'm probably completely blind - after reading the whole thread, I seem to have been completely unable to find the part number for the LED itself you guys are using for the "Annealing" indicator light? I'm not so sharp with electronics, so it might be obvious - if someone can slap me with a clue, I'd be grateful! Ha ha...

Edited to add... at 2.2k ohms on the resistor, it seems like the design expects the LED to be dropping 4v (at 20mA) - they're generally 1.8-2v, though. It doesn't seem to change the required resistance much (2.3k vs the spec'ed 2.2k). I believe that resistor needs to be 1 watt, tough, right?

 

[Gina1]

Oh shucks... I'm sorry about that. The LED (annealing light) was sort of an after thought and was not included in the parts list. Since I had a collection of LED's I just picked the one I liked.
Most LED's operate at about 3 volts. the 2,200 ohm resister (2.2K) is used to drop the 48 volts to 3 volts for the LED. As far as a part number for an LED, that is up to you. If your ordering from Jameco.com and you go to the LED page, there are so many variations of LED. Do you want normal intensity, medium, or super bright ? What size LED do you want? What color?
I could give you a part number, but you may not be happy with it.
If you want, go there, see what you like, and let me know what part number you picked out, and I'll check it out. Also you can not buy just one, as they come in packages of ten @about 10 cents a piece.
Hope this helps
Gina

 

[ottsm]

Anyone order a solenoid from Digikey? I was wondering if they came with a return spring or not, I suspect that they don't include the return spring as it isn't mentioned in the description and detail. All the others I've found on Amazon are only 10mm stroke but include the return spring. I used one with a 10mm stroke and it does work but sometimes the case ends up a little tilted, most of the time the induction straightens it up but I've seen a few times where it didn't without some help.

 

[ottsm]

I finally found an outfit that has the coil springs with the solenoid;
This is the solenoid, 12VDC continuous rating;
http://www.testco-inc.com/ledex-solenoids/195204-230
This is the spring kit for the solenoid, would give the above about 0.6" stroke if I read correctly, the heavy longer spring is only for 25% duty cycle solenoids;
http://www.testco-inc.com/ledex-solenoids/153866-001
Still would like to know about the Digikey solenoids or what other solenoids people have used.

 

[davexre]

Oh shucks... I'm sorry about that.

Heck, Gina, don't be sorry about it! I've learned a ton just reading the thread, so far. Building the thing is going to be a great experience!

The LED (annealing light) was sort of an after thought and was not included in the parts list. Since I had a collection of LED's I just picked the one I liked.
Most LED's operate at about 3 volts. the 2,200 ohm resister (2.2K) is used to drop the 48 volts to 3 volts for the LED.

That was what I was understanding. We're looking for the forward voltage number on the LED, right? So, a pretty simple LED like this one shows 2.2v max (with 1.8v being "typical"): https://www.jameco.com/z/UT1871-81-M1-R-LED-Uni-Color-Red-660nm-2-Pin-T-1-3-4-Box_333973.html

Technically, that means I'd need to wire in another 100 ohm resistor in series for that LED, right? (to drop voltage to 2v for the LED). And, if I understand correctly, that resistor is going to need to be able to handle 1 watt, right? (46v * .02 amp = .92 watt - if I did that right?)

Honestly, I have no idea what I'd be happy with. Probably just about anything that indicates the contactor is closed and the induction board has power, really. More importantly, if I have a solid handle on what's going on, I can adjust the resistance value to match up on my own, later.

Thanks for the help!

Dave

 

[GrocMax]

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

LED resistor calculator. Need to know max forward voltage/current spec for LED.

 

[davexre]

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

LED resistor calculator. Need to know max forward voltage/current spec for LED.

That's great, thanks! It's recommending a 2.7kOhm 2W resistor, to insure the circuit stays within 60% or less of the resistors operating spec...

 

[AWLEAPHART]

Has anyone been thinking of building these and selling them at a good price for us shooters.
A Leaphart

 

[Gina1]

Leaphart...

As one of the the original developers of the basic GinaErick annealer, I've been asked to build a few for other shooters. The big problem is liability. There is always the "what if" and then all that stuff about running a business.
Then again I am retired, I like my time being my own. Do I want to be stuck at a work bench for hours, working on some one's else's annealer. I don't need the money.
The end product is I published all the plans and parts list, to share, as I think it is very good annealer.
I'm sure if the parts were bought in quantity, the build price would go way down. Could be maybe some one on this web site, would like to start it. I'll be glad to help with my experience and information.
Gina

 

[AWLEAPHART]

Thanks for all your time doing the leg work and problem solving. You have done a hell of a job. Also thanks to everyone else that has spent time posting there build experience
A Leaphart

 

[Gina1]

Thanks for all your time doing the leg work and problem solving. You have done a hell of a job. Also thanks to everyone else that has spent time posting there build experience
A Leaphart

Thank you... Means a lot

Gina

 

[Brent Martell]

I just found this and have not read all 36 pages. I built a torch annealer that turned out fine but I want to move to the induction style such as this. I saw the vid on youtube and thought heck ya, perfect. So having said that....have you considered a group buy? for example if 10 people said yep, I am in, send me a kit (not complete unit)... lets say the kit is $100 and we each send you $125 would be worth your time to source the parts for a DIY build? I would suggest a paypal style payment, gift.

 

[davexre]

lets say the kit is $100 and we each send you $125 would be worth your time to source the parts for a DIY build?

Just judging by the parts required to do a build, it's going to be a good deal more than that, even if someone wanted to spend the time to purchase things up for a "group buy". The power supply alone is still $60, even if purchased 10+ at a time.

Check out the full thread, first, but I think you'd be pretty well off if you just follow Gina's original spec and BoM - it's about $350 in parts. Her doing a group buy just saves you from adding the stuff to your shopping cart on two online stores, and that's about it. I'm in the middle of grabbing my parts right now!

 

[Brent Martell]

Just judging by the parts required to do a build, it's going to be a good deal more than that, even if someone wanted to spend the time to purchase things up for a "group buy". The power supply alone is still $60, even if purchased 10+ at a time.

Check out the full thread, first, but I think you'd be pretty well off if you just follow Gina's original spec and BoM - it's about $350 in parts. Her doing a group buy just saves you from adding the stuff to your shopping cart on two online stores, and that's about it. I'm in the middle of grabbing my parts right now!

It was simply a number, would have been better to just say X and X + Y. Some people don't have a lot of time or desire to source parts and are willing to pay for the service. If Gina feels like that has value then so be it. If not, Gina's call.