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Imperfect anneling vs non at all

Wolfdog91

Silver $$ Contributor
Just curious anyone. Happen to find that you get worse performance from not the best annealing vs non at all ? Really just anneal for case life more then anything so when I do I'm not super crazy about it. Usually just flame change anneal ( heard about it a while back and seems to be on point with my tempaqi ). But was thinking back and I can remember a few loads where I annealed the brass and the groups where poor. Went back with non annealed and they were better.
Anyone got any insight? Figure it has to do with inconsistent neck tension or something maybe
IMG_20250130_102901611.jpg
 
With the AMP it definitely makes a improvement in accuracy. One of the keys I've found is to use a nylon neck brush after annealing.

For my cases, I found that the Aztec setting did not do as well as a manual setting. I needed just a little more annealing.
 
Like many here, I'm an AMP Fan-Boy. With that as context, I have to say that I struggle with the premise of the question. With the high cost and time investment in modern precision reloading, it's hard (at least for me) to understand why this critical step would either be left out, or sub-optimally implemented. But ... to each his own ... right?
 
Like many here, I'm an AMP Fan-Boy. With that as context, I have to say that I struggle with the premise of the question. With the high cost and time investment in modern precision reloading, it's hard (at least for me) to understand why this critical step would either be left out, or sub-optimally implemented. But ... to each his own ... right?
.....well.im not really at the level or trying to were alot of y'all are honestly. 1"- 3/4" groups at 100yd and I'm extremely happy.
Not to mention I'm usually using 1x fired brass , starline new if I feeling really spendy... But the level many of y'all are operating at and what I'm operating at are two different tiers

And sorry I didn't have the $1200 for amp ...it's just not that serious for me
 
.....well.im not really at the level or trying to were alot of y'all are honestly. 1"- 3/4" groups at 100yd and I'm extremely happy.
Not to mention I'm usually using 1x fired brass , starline new if I feeling really spendy... But the level many of y'all are operating at and what I'm operating at are two different tiers

And sorry I didn't have the $1200 for amp ...it's just not that serious for me
Definitely do what works best according to your time/financial investments, but most importantly on target results!
 
.....well.im not really at the level or trying to were alot of y'all are honestly. 1"- 3/4" groups at 100yd and I'm extremely happy.
Not to mention I'm usually using 1x fired brass , starline new if I feeling really spendy... But the level many of y'all are operating at and what I'm operating at are two different tiers

And sorry I didn't have the $1200 for amp ...it's just not that serious for me
I must confess. I do not own one. But my best buddy has one. I'm sure glad he bought it!!!
 
My question is this...When annealing cases why do you see some cases start to glow red much sooner than others.I have always thought it might be because some cases had more impurities than others.( heat source staying constant) Am I wrong in my thinking.
 
I stopped annealing. I built an induction annealer. I determined the right annealing time using tempilaq.
Well, I did not see any improvement.

So, if AMP makes better job and improves accuracy, go for it. It’s totally overpriced, but apparently nobody came up with a better product.
 
It kind of makes sense to me that properly annealing case will result in better consistency. The key word in "proper". All the serious competitive target shooters I know anneal.

I do not anneal, never have nor never will especially at this late stage in my shooting career. The main reason is that I am obsessed with keeping the reloading process as simple and economical as possible. I get about 15 to 18 reloads out of case before I retired them. Also, I am able to meet my modest precision requirements (varmint level) without annealing.

After years of practical shooting, I discovered, within reason, that I am the most significant variable in performance, not my equipment or reloading.
 
Annealing IMHO all depends on what the purpose is. I am like others, buddy bought one and is gracious enough to let me use it when I want.
I myself do it for case neck tension for sure and I also believe it keeps spring back from bumping the shoulder to a minimum.
I anneal my varmint cartridges at least every other time. When serious about punching g small holes with numerous shots, it is every time.

If it gives one confidence, by all means do it.

When I started playing with Bullseye, I knew several that were, very proficient shall we say, at the sport. One fellow said in major matches he always used virgin brass.
I tossed that around for some time. Forward a number of years, couple of fellows started shooting with us. I knew both prior to this, 99’s were not uncommon and 100’s were a monthly showing. Both shot mixed unknown round count.
My point being, I think that falls right in with annealing or no as far bullet pull.
Uh, both are proficient Palma shooters as well. Both married and kids, rigs set idle a fair bit now, as many of us know.
 
.....well.im not really at the level or trying to were alot of y'all are honestly. 1"- 3/4" groups at 100yd and I'm extremely happy.
Not to mention I'm usually using 1x fired brass , starline new if I feeling really spendy... But the level many of y'all are operating at and what I'm operating at are two different tiers

And sorry I didn't have the $1200 for amp ...it's just not that serious for me
Build your own induction unit for $150. Definitely take some fiddling with to get it right though.
 
Just curious anyone. Happen to find that you get worse performance from not the best annealing vs non at all ? Really just anneal for case life more then anything so when I do I'm not super crazy about it. Usually just flame change anneal ( heard about it a while back and seems to be on point with my tempaqi ). But was thinking back and I can remember a few loads where I annealed the brass and the groups where poor. Went back with non annealed and they were better.
Anyone got any insight? Figure it has to do with inconsistent neck tension or something maybe
View attachment 1645009
If your using Templaq your probably annealing at to low of a temp. The necks need to get red for a couple seconds.
 
It kind of makes sense to me that properly annealing case will result in better consistency. The key word in "proper". All the serious competitive target shooters I know anneal.

I do not anneal, never have nor never will especially at this late stage in my shooting career. The main reason is that I am obsessed with keeping the reloading process as simple and economical as possible. I get about 15 to 18 reloads out of case before I retired them. Also, I am able to meet my modest precision requirements (varmint level) without annealing.

After years of practical shooting, I discovered, within reason, that I am the most significant variable in performance, not my equipment or reloading.
I think a lot of people who've been "annealing" their brass are likewise happy with their results too. . .where they haven't really been doing anything to their brass (just nothing more than creating more work for themselves. . .been there done that) by heating their necks to 650°F. o_O :p
 
If your using Templaq your probably annealing at to low of a temp. The necks need to get red for a couple seconds.
Actually do flame change now more then anything I'll check with a bit of tempaqi just to see but usually just run it till the flame changes. Apparently that actual anneling because that's when stuff starts to burn off ? Idk there so many different whatevers when it comes to anneling. Part of the reason I do it is again most of my brass is 1x fired and it makes resizing a lot more uniform and less of a pain....that and if I hurt a extra firing or two lol
be063640a241ce96c8b19b9914c9fd0f.jpg
 

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