I'm About to Chamber My First Barrel; Any Advice?

[tobnpr]

I think you did just fine. But if you zoom in on that pic the shoulder has pretty obvious steps in it. What i do as im turning the tenon down is hold short .015 then on the last pass i go to the correct length, plunge in just a bit then come back out with a face cut so the shoulder is only one pass and theres no radius.

I do this as well.
If I have a carriage micrometer stop set on the ways I'll push the carriage hard against it when feeding out to face the shoulder, or simply engage the carriage lock. Prevents any movement of the carriage during the operation.

 

[hoz53]

I think Jay Christopher said he threaded at 600 rpm to the shoulder ! Used a metronome to keep the timing. I got scared just thinking about it !

I can disengage the half nuts pretty fast. I guess I should try some faster speeds to see if I can do it. Don’t think I’ll try 600 rpm though

 

[tobnpr]

Try out full-profile laydown threading inserts down the road to see how they work for you.
Much better looking thread crests (at least on my lathe) compared to when I use stand-up inserts, with more consistent PD.

 

[hoz53]

Try out full-profile laydown threading inserts down the road to see how they work for you.
Much better looking thread crests (at least on my lathe) compared to when I use stand-up inserts, with more consistent PD.

Ok thanks

 

[Shawnba67]

Good Job.
Learn, improve, enjoy.

 

[Bully]

Checked runout. It’s a couple 10ths at the head and neck of the chamber.

I’ll take it.

 

[hoz53]

Checked runout. It’s a couple 10ths at the head and neck of the chamber.

I’ll take it.

And did you use a cat head type fixture for that chamber job?

 

[alinwa]

Weeee Oh 320 rpm threading up to a shoulder. Ought to be exciting. Seriously youre the dude with the prox sensor on his lathe right? Don’t know what rpm OP used but i dont think he wants to try 320 right away. Thanks though ill try it with a strait piece of stock and see how it looks. I’m always looking for a better finish

TWO things.....

#1, I NEVER set a recoil lug on the threads.... and I generally use 1/2" thick recoil lugs

#2, I NEVER PULL OUT (I got's 9 kids....but I digress.....) I use a chickenout slot and (this is FREAKY but try it!) it's actually easier to nail the slot at higher speed!

#3, I don't do it for the finish, I do it because I'm bored and because I screw up MORE lolligagging on thee switch at slow speed....and I screw up, a LOT. (sorry, one more reference to the 9 kids...tongue firmly in cheek)

 

[hoz53]

TWO things.....

#1, I NEVER set a recoil lug on the threads.... and I generally use 1/2" thick recoil lugs

#2, I NEVER PULL OUT (I got's 9 kids....but I digress.....) I use a chickenout slot and (this is FREAKY but try it!) it's actually easier to nail the slot at higher speed!

#3, I don't do it for the finish, I do it because I'm bored and because I screw up MORE lolligagging on thee switch at slow speed....and I screw up, a LOT. (sorry, one more reference to the 9 kids...tongue firmly in cheek)

9 kids Wow you must be a busy guy. I dont ever set a recoil lug on threads either. I use .250 thick ones and cut a section that wide for it, then to avoid the action hitting the radius i cut a grove that just lays under the lug
(Action side and also a little past the lug. This also becomes my chicken slot to. It seems easy to get disengaged within that but I’m running at 70 rpm i believe. When you say you never pull out does that mean you leave the tool in threads and reverse the lathe Back to start for next pass? I generally pull out, after disengaging the nuts , crank the carriage back then move my tool back in where i want it for the next pass. I dont need a better finish than i get now but i figure a better finish means I’m doing it closer to right —Im using HSS now but ill get some carbide if i have to and try the higher speed. Thanks much for all the info.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

If you make a chicken slot you can just disengage when its in that slot then pull out when you want to, go down and reset. That way you only have to concentrate on disengaging quick not backing out, going the right way at the same exact time. If you use a .250 lug you could make that slot .125 and still have plenty of shelf left

 

[hoz53]

If you make a chicken slot you can just disengage when its in that slot then pull out when you want to, go down and reset. That way you only have to concentrate on disengaging quick not backing out, going the right way at the same exact time. If you use a .250 lug you could make that slot .125 and still have plenty of shelf left

That’s exactly what i do. I guess my explanations aren’t to good. Ive been using a .125 parting blade to make the slot. I’d like to make the slot a little skinnier but like you say probably isn’t necessary. Thanks

 

[Bully]

And did you use a cat head type fixture for that chamber job?

No sir.
4 jaw with 4gauge and a spider on the back of the lathe that I made last week.

 

[AckleymanII]

Iscar carbide threading inserts are made to operate as low as 90 rpm, they cut a beautiful finish at 70 rpm. These inserts are difficult to dull....understatement.

You can cut a Thread Relief groove with your threading tool, cut it .005 deeper than the depth of thread, it will take a very trained eye to tell the difference. Use a different 60* tool if you are worried about dulling your tool.

Use a travel dial to tell you where to disengage your thread cut, in the middle of the V that you cut the thread relief.

These Iscar carbide threading inserts are unbelievable, and I do grind my own HSS and Alloy tool bits to compare to.

I had trouble with parting off until I started using a T type blade, now it is as easy as putting on your socks. I part off at 119-190 rpm, .0046 feed rate, flood with oil during the process. Touch up the part off blade on a harbor freight 1" belt sander prior to using or every third barrel at least. Have the blade on center line is a must, and have no more blade sticking out than you need to. I have had no problem cutting off 1.25" solid stock.

Cut off dies with a carbide cut off blade the same way.

 

[Bamban]

I can disengage the half nuts pretty fast. I guess I should try some faster speeds to see if I can do it. Don’t think I’ll try 600 rpm though

Hoz,

Here is another version of threading at higher speed. This was accomplished using the Zero location in the DRO and have a software interface to stop the spindle thru the VFD once carriage travel count gets to zero. The video was done during testing. Threading into a relief cut to within 0.001 is no problem.

I have since settled on the proximity sensor.

Watch "10x24 Lathe Threading with DRO Driven Spindle Stop" on YouTube

 

[22DASHER]

I generally use 1/2" thick recoil lugs

After reading the rest of your post I was just wondering why the 1/2” thick part was not also in reference to your 9 children.....?

 

[hoz53]

No sir.
4 jaw with 4gauge and a spider on the back of the lathe that I made last week.

I just wondered because I was thinking of getting/making a cat head to use with shorter barrels. I never liked the idea of the end of the barrel being unsupported and had thoughts of it flopping around some. Since you reported good runout though I thought that Mabie a cathead would be okay. I know some guys are successful using one. Also not trying to hijack your thread here. I hope you’re getting a little something out of all these guys posts.

 

[hoz53]

Iscar carbide threading inserts are made to operate as low as 90 rpm, they cut a beautiful finish at 70 rpm. These inserts are difficult to dull....understatement.

You can cut a Thread Relief groove with your threading tool, cut it .005 deeper than the depth of thread, it will take a very trained eye to tell the difference. Use a different 60* tool if you are worried about dulling your tool.

Use a travel dial to tell you where to disengage your thread cut, in the middle of the V that you cut the thread relief.

These Iscar carbide threading inserts are unbelievable, and I do grind my own HSS and Alloy tool bits to compare to.

I had trouble with parting off until I started using a T type blade, now it is as easy as putting on your socks. I part off at 119-190 rpm, .0046 feed rate, flood with oil during the process. Touch up the part off blade on a harbor freight 1" belt sander prior to using or every third barrel at least. Have the blade on center line is a must, and have no more blade sticking out than you need to. I have had no problem cutting off 1.25" solid stock.

Cut off dies with a carbide cut off blade the same way.

hi ackleyman I’ll look into those inserts. It seems there are so many inserts out there they are a bit confusing for me. Threading tool for the relief groove -I’ll try that on the next one which is coming up soon. — I am rigging up a drop style indicator to use for my travel like you say. I should really get a dro- that would be nice— I think my parting blades are the T type- I have trouble with them staying in the tool holder. Sometimes they cut and sometimes not. I have manually fed them so I’ll try power feed. I would like to get this parting down better. I’ll get a quality tool holder and blade and try it again at the speed/feed you indicated. I may try one of those carbide insert parting tools— Thanks for the info

 

[Bully]

I just wondered because I was thinking of getting/making a cat head to use with shorter barrels. I never liked the idea of the end of the barrel being unsupported and had thoughts of it flopping around some. Since you reported good runout though I thought that Mabie a cathead would be okay. I know some guys are successful using one. Also not trying to hijack your thread here. I hope you’re getting a little something out of all these guys posts.

I’m getting a ton of learning out of this thread. I’m very content to sit back and learn some.

 

[AckleymanII]

hi ackleyman I’ll look into those inserts. It seems there are so many inserts out there they are a bit confusing for me. Threading tool for the relief groove -I’ll try that on the next one which is coming up soon. — I am rigging up a drop style indicator to use for my travel like you say. I should really get a dro- that would be nice— I think my parting blades are the T type- I have trouble with them staying in the tool holder. Sometimes they cut and sometimes not. I have manually fed them so I’ll try power feed. I would like to get this parting down better. I’ll get a quality tool holder and blade and try it again at the speed/feed you indicated. I may try one of those carbide insert parting tools— Thanks for the info

This Carmex insert is sold on ebay for a very good price. According to Carmex, this black insert is made for SS at slow speeds of 90 rpm, I am running 70-119. At 70 rpm, the threads are absolutely beautiful. I had been using the gold insert but they are 2.5x the money of the black insert due to sellers.

These carmex inserts are darn hard to dull, very high quality product at a very good price. I am sure that I bought enough for my grand children

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[Bully]

Ok, next challenge...

I rented a throating reamer from 4D. It showed up today. I did not fully grasp how different the throating reamer is from a standard chambering reamer. I am not unsure on how to hold the reamer to do my throat. I did not rent all the tools from 4D thinking I would not need them.

I don't have tons of tooling.

Any advice would be appreciated.