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If you were building a new house........

Since we are just talking around the camp fire, in my business (home building and codes) the order is Life Safety/ Health/ Property in that order of importance. Fire suppression systems are designed to allow you to get out" not necessarily to put the fire out all the water from putting out a fire will find its way to the basement where your safe is, will that water seep in?
Is there a level below the safe like a bilge?
Just a thought
Since we are just talking around the camp fire, in my business (home building and codes) the order is Life Safety/ Health/ Property in that order of importance. Fire suppression systems are designed to allow you to get out" not necessarily to put the fire out all the water from putting out a fire will find its way to the basement where your safe is, will that water seep in?
Is there a level below the safe like a bilge?
Just a thought
All good points! I really think it depends on where you live Geographically. here in Colorado the humidity
is usually as dry as a popcorn fart. I do monitor the temp and humidity. Yeah, void with a drain under the floor, keep stuff off the floor too. That's my needs. If I was in kortucky the humidity would be a major concern.
If I was a inner city Detroit dweller, yeah, theft. California wild fires, I'd move. Nuclear holocaust,
I want to be ground zero for that one. And, cost! Not every one has the financial means to do a Cheyenne
Mountain Bunker.
 
Agreed
I use a simple but strong gun safe with a tight fitting door 7/16 plate steel, bolted to the floor and the wall. My feelings are that you cannot stop a thief only slow them down.
As far as disaster goes well if me and mamma get out then all is good. To hell with possessions!!
 
in my business (home building and codes) the order is Life Safety/ Health/ Property in that order of importance.
If all of my toys are burned up, just put a bullet in me. Life without hobbies is a life not worth living...
 
We set a fabricated steel door in a room made of concrete block. Then outside that door, a commercial steel door with an alarm on it. Put rebar in the concrete block as we went then poked concrete in the voids as we went. Reinforced concrete ceiling, all in an alarmed garage.
 
Question on fireproof rooms designed to protect the people in the house. What temps does the inside of a concrete box get if the house around it burns? I would also worry about thermal warpage of the safe door making exit difficult. Maybe neither of these issues are a problem these are just thoughts that ran through my head.
Maybe safe rooms are not designed to protect occupants from heat in the event a house burned around it.
 
Certainly, not all ICF systems qualify for elevator shafts. Are we talking about monolithic towers like a stairway?



wupterchook...hmmm. I know wupt, I know WUPM, I know chook but I got no clue what yer license plate sez.....

But innyways.... I'm going to agree with you. As a foundation contractor (with THREE of the stupid things on my schedule right now) I despise styrofoam houses BUT, he's right. They can be a GREAT option for vaults.


We use them in elevator shafts.
We use them in those tight spots where you can't get normal forms out.
We use them in spots where we need to waterproof a section of wall and don't have room to get the rock and pipe in.
And for homeowner use, for self-installation they're completely self-contained. They can be installed by a crew of women and children and when yer all done there're no nasty forms to deal with.
y not all ICF forms
 
With a vault, you need return air or a special dehumidifier. If you only pump in air it wont be enough to control humidity. must have a return which means zone control.
 

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