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I just Bought A Project……Opinions

I have a 1908 in the drawer. It is also a DWM Mauser but mine was made at the DWM plant in Berlin while yours was made in the DWM plant at Oberndorf. Mine was damaged when a shade tree mechanic figured a crescent wrench was the perfect tool for barrel removal. The damage was cosmetic and the action is still sound.
In 1977, I was gunsmithing at a shop in British Columbia. We had two sealed cases of 1908 Mausers. They were packed 25 to the zinc-lined case. These rifles were brand new and unissued. Each rifle was complete with sling, bayonet, and test target. They were 7x57's. I kept one 1908 and one 1935 (made by Mauser Werke in Oberndorf. We had two cases of those too). I sold the '08 and built my own 35 Whelen on the 1935. The 1908 actions were in the white; the 1935's were blued.
Your action does appear to have had something done on the face.
While these are easily trued using common machine techniques, I have to confess that I often just true the face with a file! I would take measurements around the c-ring with a depth mike, and simply file until it measured the same all around. It took less time to do this than it would have taken to set up in the lathe, and I could easily get well under a half thou, and usually, it looked like zero. I like to seat on both surfaces. I don't generally mess with the threads, because that would mean setting up in the jig. I seat the barrel on Mausers damn tight. Probably around 250 LB or so.
I like the original triggers and my Whelen is so equipped. The second stage breaks at three pounds even. I put a 3 position safety on it at some point, so it would be like my Winchesters. I had it in my head that this would keep me from fumbling when presented with a shot. Didn't work though. Turns out the fumbling had nothing to do with anything but my tendency to seize when I saw a big (insert animal here, the specie didn't matter. A choke is a choke).
In truth, I like the Beuhler-type safety just fine and all of my other Mausers have them. WH
 
Jackie, are you going to double fit the barrel to both faces or just to the reciever face? -Al
 
I am in Corpus Christi this week align boring the shaft line on a new 90’ push boat, so I drove up to Falls City and picked up the action.

This is about as nice of an example of a vintage 98 Mauser that I have seen in some time. Who ever did the bolt handle did a nice job.
I see no wear on the bolt lug abutments, the bolt lugs look unmarked. The threads appear to be in excellent shape. The firing pin is still a very close fit in the bolt face.

It is definitely case hardenned. I can’t scratch it with my hardened Starret 6 inch ruler. One thing that does not look quite original is the action face. It appears that at some time, it got faced. Maybe someone trued it. I will check all of that.

My plans are to first put the action on a bolt mandrel and check the trueness of the inner ring, the action face, and the threads, and correct as needed. I will then order a Chrome Moly barrel in a standard Remington profile, (haven’t decided on the chambering yet), and fit it to the action. I will then bed the barreled action into the stock.
The barreled action will then be sent to a top notch blueing operation to be polished and blued.
I think I will have the bolt Melonited.

I want this to be a top not hunting rifle.

here are some View attachment 1479176pictures I just took in my hotel room.View attachment 1479173View attachment 1479174View attachment 1479175
Jackie, I'm glad you are pleased with the action. I may, or maybe may not have faced off that receiver face. I had quite a few Mauser actions I was working on at the time and may have done them all since I had the mandrel in the lathe. It was a long time ago, I don't recall.
It was a real pleasure meeting you yesterday and I look forward to seeing pictures of your progress and the finished rifle. Based on your plans you told me about it will be a wonder to behold. In the meantime, stay safe.
Best Regards,
Robert
 
The bolt handle was done by a person in San Augustine Texas. He specialized in doing these actions and he was good as well as reasonable. I don't recall his name, but Butch may know. He no longer does these as his vision was failing.
 
Jackie, are you going to double fit the barrel to both faces or just to the reciever face? -Al
Al, I have read countless opinions on this. Some say yes, some no.

Strictly from a machinist point of view, I would think that if you know beyond any doubt that the inner ring is truly square with the face of the action, it would be better to seat against both.

After I get through with what I am going to do, I will have the barrel seat against each.
 
The bolt handle was done by a person in San Augustine Texas. He specialized in doing these actions and he was good as well as reasonable. I don't recall his name, but Butch may know. He no longer does these as his vision was failing.
His name is Doug Fincher, Him and his wife are Very, Very nice people, He may no longer be with us, He looked as ancient as the hills. That bolt handle was forged using forging blocks, He did a very nice job, But it's way too short for my liking, Forging them almost always results in a short handle. Just my opinion though.
 
Here is my bolt handles I do, This is a 220 Swift I did several years ago, A very accurate rifle. Cerakote is Platinum Gray.

Jackie, If you happen to choose a shorter cartridge, I will donate a hard to find short follower to your project.
 

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To do the Handle on a Mauser, I cut about 3/4 through the root of the handle, leaving the root longer on top. Then I heated the handle at the cut and bent it down about 80 degrees. I filled in the resultant notch with weld (I used oxy-acetylene early on but switched to a wire feed welder later. I've been considering a TIG set up, but it might be a little late in the game to switch now). After clean up, I heated the handle again and bent it up a little and swept it back just a bit. I used a threaded piece of brass for a heat sink. If the cocking cam softened up, I re-hardened it. This was almost always necessary when I used the oxy-acet.
Doing the handle this way retained the length and made for a nice handle. It was necessary to notch the receiver for the handle.
When I was working at the hydraulic shop, I made 100 replacement handles with the Mauser pear shaped knob. I think I'm just about out of them. Talley handles are much the same. WH
 
I just talked to Mark at Bartlien, it is going to be a chrome moly 7mm, either in vintage 7X57 or 280 Remington, #3 profile.

I am also thinking of going with Pacific Tool steel bottom metal, in the white, so it will be blued with the barreled action.

The original bottom metal that came with the action fits the stock fine, except it is a little longer in the front because the FN did not have the little locking screw Toward of the action screw.image.jpg
 
I just talked to Mark at Bartlien, it is going to be a chrome moly 7mm, either in vintage 7X57 or 280 Remington, #3 profile.

I am also thinking of going with Pacific Tool steel bottom metal, in the white, so it will be blued with the barreled action.

The original bottom metal that came with the action fits the stock fine, except it is a little longer in the front because the FN did not have the little locking screw Toward of the action screw.View attachment 1479317
.280 gets my vote
 
At one time, it was common practice to eliminate the locking screw and fill in the hole. Then one could shorten the tang or leave it long, according to preference. Same thing at the rear. The trigger guard was filed to achieve a shape more like that on the P14 Enfield or the Model 70, both of which are attractive guards. Some guys would file off the little protrusion on the bolt stop, then checker the front of the stop. An alternative was to build it up, file a wedge, and checker that. I generally just checkered the little protrusion.
As I may have mentioned, it was common practice to eliminate the clip charger hump on the receiver bridge. Some people would fill in the slot and recontour so that it looked like a commercial FN. Some also filled in the "thumb notch" by welding or silver soldering a piece in. I've seen some so well done that it was impossible to tell. By the way, the thumb notch also serves as part of Mauser's gas venting system and is described as such in their patent. WH
 
Here is my bolt handles I do, This is a 220 Swift I did several years ago, A very accurate rifle. Cerakote is Platinum Gray.

Jackie, If you happen to choose a shorter cartridge, I will donate a hard to find short follower to your project.
I appreciate that. However, it is going to be either 7x57 or 280 Rem.

If I go 280, I will get the PTG bottom metal that already accommodates the longer case.
 
I appreciate that. However, it is going to be either 7x57 or 280 Rem.

If I go 280, I will get the PTG bottom metal that already accommodates the longer case.
Cool, I have not done the 7x57 yet, I have done many Mauser's and that one is on my list, Although mine will most likely be the 7x57 Improved, I have both reamers though. I just finished a 6.5 PRC on a mauser action that feeds excellent from the magazine and shoots extremely well. I still haven't finished my 7.62x54R Mauser yet, It's 90% done, I just have been busy with other stuff.
 
Here is my bolt handles I do, This is a 220 Swift I did several years ago, A very accurate rifle. Cerakote is Platinum Gray.

Jackie, If you happen to choose a shorter cartridge, I will donate a hard to find short follower to your project.
I had my custom 721 that I built several years ago Parkerized. It gos great with the HS Precision Stock, the stainless barrel, stainless bottom metal and shroud.

I’m just Not sure how it would look on the Mauser.

Yours looks great.IMG_2337.jpeg
 
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I appreciate that. However, it is going to be either 7x57 or 280 Rem.

If I go 280, I will get the PTG bottom metal that already accommodates the longer case.
If you go with the 7x57, you might look for a 1909 Arg. tg/fp. If not altered, it would be the right length for the cartridge, it's hinged, has no locking screw holes and looks Mauser. You would still have to inlet the wood a little forward as it's longer than the FN metal. but the action screw hole spacing is standard 98.
 
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