how to see bullet holes-- 600 to 1000

[hoz53]

I second Walt's idea but a farmer I know uses a drone to check on his crops. He also flies it down to targets and points the camera at it.

see my reply to trapper. I don’t think the drone would work for me. I wanna see my shots in real time - I can’t be shutting down the line all the time- also have to collect my targets when I’m done shooting so have to go down there anyway. Thanks though

 

[hoz53]

Drone is about $250 with 30 min of battery time and not much else.

Spend more and get the shot marker, longer battery time, gives you detailed useful shot info.

I agree, I like the shot marker- its just what I want except for dragging the big target frame down there every time I shoot. Thanks

 

[Twdmar]

see my reply to trapper. I don’t think the drone would work for me. I wanna see my shots in real time - I can’t be shutting down the line all the time- also have to collect my targets when I’m done shooting so have to go down there anyway. Thanks though

Reading before writing is a lot like listening before talking, I don't always do it. This guy has a range on his farm. Not feasible at an active range.
I'm not sure I would put a camera at most ranges either if there were other people using it unless I put something down to protect it.
The shot marker is a nice system and not only would you probably need to lug around a target frame, a 5'x5' would probably work but I would want to take a sand bag to protect the computer brain too.

 

[Newhouse]

I use Longshot HAWK that is attached to my spotting scope. I primarily use this for my rimfire and at 200 yds. If you can see your bullet holes with your spotting scope, HAWK may work for you. You’ll need a tablet or an Ipad.

 

[hoz53]

Reading before writing is a lot like listening before talking, I don't always do it. This guy has a range on his farm. Not feasible at an active range.
I'm not sure I would put a camera at most ranges either if there were other people using it unless I put something down to protect it.
The shot marker is a nice system and not only would you probably need to lug around a target frame, a 5'x5' would probably work but I would want to take a sand bag to protect the computer brain too.

lol- yeah always gotta figure things may get shot- not that many where i shoot, so i think i could let them know not to shoot my stuff- this is a reason to find something cheap though also gotta fit in the car

 

[hoz53]

I use Longshot HAWK that is attached to my spotting scope. I primarily use this for my rimfire and at 200 yds. If you can see your bullet holes with your spotting scope, HAWK may work for you. You’ll need a tablet or an Ipad.

i have a kowa spotter with 20x60 zoom- i can just make out 6mm holes at 300. at 600, where i want to shoot, no way i could see them with it. i have an ipad which want to use for this project. thanks

 

[joshb]

My Doctor suggests more walking........
Buy a little dirt bike?
I think the camera is the way to go!

 

[Ned Ludd]

For many years, I have used the 18" Shoot-N-C targets as a practice tool out to 600 yd. I tape a target to the cardboard insert that comes in the target package as a support, then black out all the lines and numbers with a fat black Sharpie, leaving only the red aiming dot in the middle. I also use a compass to inscribe the "9", "10", and "X" rings in the target face, which are also readily visible through the rifle or spotting scope. I can see bullet holes at 600 yd using this approach, both .223 and .308, out to 600 yd. Past that distance, you really want a camera system or a ShotMarker. Even with the increased contrast/visibility from the Shoot-N-C target face, reliably spotting bullet impacts past 600 yd is difficult, especially if there's much mirage. I buy sheets of the round black stickies to cover up the bullet holes after each shooting session. I can usually get at least 4-5 uses out of a single target setup before it's shot out.

The only real issue with the Shoot-N-C targets at 600 yd is that you want to limit the number of shots per target face to around 10-12. Otherwise, it can become difficult to conclusively identify the latest impact as the number of bullet holes increases, especially if you're shooting out the 10-/X-rings as F-Class shooters tend to do at 600 yd. It can also be a little difficult to see the impact when you hit the aiming dot, but it's usually not impossible to figure out where that shot went. I attached a few images below as an example of what they look like, on the first of the dual targets, there are both .223 (L) and .308 (R) holes. The other two targets are .223 bullet holes only.


I ordered a ShotMarker back in March and am hoping it will be here soon. FWIW - you don't necessarily have to make a gigantic frame for the ShotMarker. Because I will currently only be using it out to 600 yd, mine will likely be 36" on a side (haven't built it yet). Having used the 18" Shoot-N-Cs for years, I believe a 36" target frame at 600 yd will provide plenty safe margin for the sensors, yet not be so bulky or troublesome to transport as would be a much larger target frame. Obviously, I'd want it to be a little bigger at 1000 yd LOL. A shooting buddy uses a target cam system, which also works very well. Either one will allow shooting at much greater distances than the Shoot-N-C targets.

 

[Albany Mountain]

I looked into shot marker- it would be ideal in many ways and I could afford it, but I saw one a guy had at the range a few months ago. He had the mics on a large wooden frame (box) and my understanding is its best to have them at least 3 feet apart. I don’t wanna have to haul that big target frame out to range everytime I go shoot. I’ll check the solo thanks Walt

what size are you planning on shooting at 600-1000 yards? a one foot target??

 

[243Mendoza]

Drone is about $250 with 30 min of battery time and not much else.

Spend more and get the shot marker, longer battery time, gives you detailed useful shot info.

And drones are hard to control in a wind.

 

[Dave Berg]

I don't know that I'd buy one just for this purpose but since I had drones for other reasons that's what I used. The mid-priced ones have a flight time of 30-35 minutes and they will hover exactly where you want them to. For an extended shooting session, say a couple hours, I just landed it at the base of the berm and shut the motors down. It keeps right on transmitting and recording whatever it sees with a lot less battery drain than when in flight. Then just hit the home button when you're done. I could see each shot on a cheap Android tablet or a not so cheap iPad Mini 5 (easier to see in the sun). Every shot gets recorded and can even be live streamed to YouTube if that's your thing.

Nobody tried it that I'm aware of but every gun guy when they see a drone either says or thinks "I bet I could hit that".

 

[243Mendoza]

Reading before writing is a lot like listening before talking, I don't always do it. This guy has a range on his farm. Not feasible at an active range.
I'm not sure I would put a camera at most ranges either if there were other people using it unless I put something down to protect it.
The shot marker is a nice system and not only would you probably need to lug around a target frame, a 5'x5' would probably work but I would want to take a sand bag to protect the computer brain too.

I use a 3x4 target that I can lift with one hand. You don't need a backer for a target; all you need is frame to suspend an aiming mark like a plastic pail lid suspended by string.

 

[Dave Berg]

And drones are hard to control in a wind.

So are bullets at 600 and 1,000. If it's windy enough to make a good drone hard to control you probably shouldn't be shooting.

 

[243Mendoza]

Have you flown a drone in 10mph wind. No problem for bullets.

 

[hoz53]

what size are you planning on shooting at 600-1000 yards? a one foot target??

well you have a point but taking a piece of paper 3x3 is alot different than taking a 3x3x2 plywood box- im gonna look more into just what shot marker requires -- mabie i can make a foldable frame ect-- thanks

 

[Dave Berg]

Have you flown a drone in 10mph wind. No problem for bullets

In a 10 MPH breeze a Phantom 3 will fly and hover just fine. Flight time won't be quite as long but it will hang right there. Gimbal mounted camera makes video rock solid.

 

[K9TXS]

For many years, I have used the 18" Shoot-N-C targets as a practice tool out to 600 yd. I tape a target to the cardboard insert that comes in the target package as a support, then black out all the lines and numbers with a fat black Sharpie, leaving only the red aiming dot in the middle. I also use a compass to inscribe the "9", "10", and "X" rings in the target face, which are also readily visible through the rifle or spotting scope. I can see bullet holes at 600 yd using this approach, both .223 and .308, out to 600 yd. Past that distance, you really want a camera system or a ShotMarker. Even with the increased contrast/visibility from the Shoot-N-C target face, reliably spotting bullet impacts past 600 yd is difficult, especially if there's much mirage. I buy sheets of the round black stickies to cover up the bullet holes after each shooting session. I can usually get at least 4-5 uses out of a single target setup before it's shot out.

The only real issue with the Shoot-N-C targets at 600 yd is that you want to limit the number of shots per target face to around 10-12. Otherwise, it can become difficult to conclusively identify the latest impact as the number of bullet holes increases, especially if you're shooting out the 10-/X-rings as F-Class shooters tend to do at 600 yd. It can also be a little difficult to see the impact when you hit the aiming dot, but it's usually not impossible to figure out where that shot went. I attached a few images below as an example of what they look like, on the first of the dual targets, there are both .223 (L) and .308 (R) holes. The other two targets are .223 bullet holes only.


I ordered a ShotMarker back in March and am hoping it will be here soon. FWIW - you don't necessarily have to make a gigantic frame for the ShotMarker. Because I will currently only be using it out to 600 yd, mine will likely be 36" on a side (haven't built it yet). Having used the 18" Shoot-N-Cs for years, I believe a 36" target frame at 600 yd will provide plenty safe margin for the sensors, yet not be so bulky or troublesome to transport as would be a much larger target frame. Obviously, I'd want it to be a little bigger at 1000 yd LOL. A shooting buddy uses a target cam system, which also works very well. Either one will allow shooting at much greater distances than the Shoot-N-C targets.

I do a very similar setup. At the bench, I have the same target that I have down range. Each time I shoot, I spot the target, then place a marker on my target at the bench. Marking the target at the bench allows me to see where I'm hitting.

 

[300 weatherby]

My vote goes to Kongsberg Target Systems. CMP Talladega has them. Never had a problem. Unless it was shot that is...

 

[Lefty Trigger]

A drone at our range is a moving target... but it would keep them from shooting the buildings!

 

[hoz53]

My Doctor suggests more walking........
Buy a little dirt bike?
I think the camera is the way to go!

They have a 4 wheeler at the range I go to, so I can remain lazy