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How Far to Run the Reamer When Chambering

For those of you who fired your flow through systems. Why did you do that? Too much hassle for only a few barrels? Too much mess?
 
I thought about going to a flush arrangement but with the the small amount of chambering work I do, it wasn't worth the hassle.

One aspect that also put me off was the possible upset because of the weight of the rotating coupling and hose on lighter profile barrels. Medium or light Palma profiles 30" or more long can deflect easily. That tends to negate all the care taken in set-up.
 
I thought about going to a flush arrangement but with the the small amount of chambering work I do, it wasn't worth the hassle.

One aspect that also put me off was the possible upset because of the weight of the rotating coupling and hose on lighter profile barrels. Medium or light Palma profiles 30" or more long can deflect easily. That tends to negate all the care taken in set-up.
If you have a problem with a flush system you don't have it set up right.
 
If you have a problem with a flush system you don't have it set up right.
Since I set-up my muzzle flush system I wouldn't be without it. Not just because of the time it saves me, but because of the nice finishes I get and the extended tool wear. I never worry about scoring with cuttings that might get hung-up on the reamer. I'm an "oil guy". My first machining, in '74, was on a W&S #3 Electro-Cycle turret lathe where 'coolant' was screw machine oil. From there I went to the 4 and 6 spindle Acme-Gridley screw machines. The coolant tank on those holds 110gal. Screw machine oil on those, also. I didn't see water soluble oil till years after that. I have alot of faith in oil, even though I work in synthetic coolant on CNCs now. The difference may be that the CNCs run almost 100% carbide and the screw machine were "pre-carbide" when HS tooling still 'ruled the day'.
 
Since I set-up my muzzle flush system I wouldn't be without it. Not just because of the time it saves me, but because of the nice finishes I get and the extended tool wear. I never worry about scoring with cuttings that might get hung-up on the reamer. I'm an "oil guy". My first machining, in '74, was on a W&S #3 Electro-Cycle turret lathe where 'coolant' was screw machine oil. From there I went to the 4 and 6 spindle Acme-Gridley screw machines. The coolant tank on those holds 110gal. Screw machine oil on those, also. I didn't see water soluble oil till years after that. I have alot of faith in oil, even though I work in synthetic coolant on CNCs now. The difference may be that the CNCs run almost 100% carbide and the screw machine were "pre-carbide" when HS tooling still 'ruled the day'.
Thats a very good point.
 
Since I set-up my muzzle flush system I wouldn't be without it. Not just because of the time it saves me, but because of the nice finishes I get and the extended tool wear. I never worry about scoring with cuttings that might get hung-up on the reamer. I'm an "oil guy". My first machining, in '74, was on a W&S #3 Electro-Cycle turret lathe where 'coolant' was screw machine oil. From there I went to the 4 and 6 spindle Acme-Gridley screw machines. The coolant tank on those holds 110gal. Screw machine oil on those, also. I didn't see water soluble oil till years after that. I have alot of faith in oil, even though I work in synthetic coolant on CNCs now. The difference may be that the CNCs run almost 100% carbide and the screw machine were "pre-carbide" when HS tooling still 'ruled the day'.
what kind of oil/coolant do you use in your flush system? Man you guys are makin more work for me- i gotta make one of these now.
 
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what kind of oil/coolant do you use in your flush system? Man you guys are makin more work for me- i gotta make one of these now.
We use Chevron I don't know the part number but I will get it for you when I get back to work but it works very well it's the same cutting oil that we use in our deep hole Drillers I use the chamber flush system more often than not at work but if I chamber on my lathe at home I usually old can system plunge and retract 20200612_072836-1.jpg clean chips and go right back after it.
 
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I had a friend that worked his way up from apprentice machinist to shop supervisor during a 30 year career. He spent years with coolant salesmen and finally found a "universal" coolant they could use on every machine in the shop that used coolant (and a bunch that didn't like manual Bridgeports, etc.): Hocut-795MP-RHS (make sure it is exactly that as Hocut makes some others with "795" in the name that may be cheaper but are not as good). He gave me a gallon of it and that lasted me for awhile (mixed 15 to one or so with water), then I bought a 5 gallon pail from Keller-Heartt. Stuff works great and never fouls.

https://www.kellerheartt.com/produc...rhs-coolant-5-gallon-pail?variant=58607881995
 
I had a friend that worked his way up from apprentice machinist to shop supervisor during a 30 year career. He spent years with coolant salesmen and finally found a "universal" coolant they could use on every machine in the shop that used coolant (and a bunch that didn't like manual Bridgeports, etc.): Hocut-795MP-RHS (make sure it is exactly that as Hocut makes some others with "795" in the name that may be cheaper but are not as good). He gave me a gallon of it and that lasted me for awhile (mixed 15 to one or so with water), then I bought a 5 gallon pail from Keller-Heartt. Stuff works great and never fouls.

https://www.kellerheartt.com/produc...rhs-coolant-5-gallon-pail?variant=58607881995
Thanks Gene
 
We use Chevron I don't know the part number but I will get it for you when I get back to work but it works very well it's the same cutting hole that we use in our deep hole Drillers I use the chamber flush system more often than not at work but if I chamber on my lathe at home I usually old can system plunge and retract View attachment 1184509 clean chips and go right back after it.
Thanks Stan
 

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