• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

How Far to Run the Reamer When Chambering

thats a great piece of info. You use a flush system i take it? Thanks
No, I use a drill and boring bar. I leave a total of .005" annular on the chamber for the reamer and drill within .060" of the correct depth.

It usually takes sub 10min to finish a chamber and typically takes 3 passes with said reamer.
 
No, I use a drill and boring bar. I leave a total of .005" annular on the chamber for the reamer and drill within .060" of the correct depth.

It usually takes sub 10min to finish a chamber and typically takes 3 passes with said reamer.
I started out reaming the whole thing with a finish reamer. Im glad i got that experience but its time to move on. The way you do it sounds Great to me. I ordered a boring bar a few days ago and Ill be trying that out soon. Thank You
 
If you are loping along at 70rpm , and you're not using a flush system but cutting .05, cleaning the reamer and chamber an re-oiling, I'd say you're doing OK. Without a flush you will generate more heat at higher rpm if you're not real careful. And heat is one of the 'enemies' of HS tooling. I'm up around 200rpm if the barrel and reamer tell me "I can". I'm running a muzzle flush @ 30-35# , which is a good flow, but not a total mess (I run cutting oil). I drill and pre-bore to save wear on my reamers. If I take the pilot off I reduce the # on the muzzle flush. A steady flow clears the cuttings and keeps the heat down. The last barrel I chambered, just a few days ago, was a Brux in 7 mag. After dial-in, I was done cutting and head spacing in under 1/2hr. You need to remember though, I'm in a working machine shop daily, with "hands on". If you want to take longer, that's fine. Do whats comfortable and produces good results for YOU!

I am down at 60 RPM and I completely clean the reamer, clean the chamber, and re-oil each pass. It's really a slow process so if I can make deeper cuts then it saves a lot of time.
 
Coolant flush is the best thing I ever did to preserve the life of my reamers. I don't do a huge volume like some here, but since switching to through-the-barrel coolant flush, I've had no detectable reamer wear, nor do I get that caked-on layer on the flutes that requires a copper scraper to remove.

I think I will eventually get there, but I don't do enough to justify the cost right now.....
 
Chamber flush system to me was a no brainer. I have around $300 into my setup and it’s the best thing I ever did. I don’t even count chamber jobs on the reamer. It always turns out good. I drill with a piloted drill and then chamber.
 
Chamber flush system to me was a no brainer. I have around $300 into my setup and it’s the best thing I ever did. I don’t even count chamber jobs on the reamer. It always turns out good. I drill with a piloted drill and then chamber.
what do you use for the fitting that hooks to the barrel and turns? Thanks
 
Chamber flush system to me was a no brainer. I have around $300 into my setup and it’s the best thing I ever did. I don’t even count chamber jobs on the reamer. It always turns out good. I drill with a piloted drill and then chamber.

What are the components of your $300 chamber flush system?
 
I got mine slightly used on ebay for $29.00.

ACtC-3dQEdb2MD-lnab_D_RrFOdT__5h4VypmjM4PRTw09zZIi0pTQAUvUKNhIA0rGnvaolbgxE_G5Xp6kJ6rxILUqveUPsFvH_sXtdingkG5_g3AfJTQw42s_HzUVrz3V-7QwgGYYKXvNlG-1adn0pRcpxEZg=w1201-h888-no
 
I am down at 60 RPM and I completely clean the reamer, clean the chamber, and re-oil each pass. It's really a slow process so if I can make deeper cuts then it saves a lot of time.
If in the process of taking deeper cuts more cuttings are in the flutes, there will be more friction created which may damage the tool and/or the barrel. Over heat the tool with heat from the friction, or scar the chamber you are cutting, or both. If the barrel is 4140/4150CM it can be 'work hardened' by over heating tools (or rubbing instead of cutting) which transfers to the work. You have to decide for yourself what you can 'get away with' or what will bite you in the pants. That's part of being a "machinist". In my mind, barrel work is always approached 'gently'. If I 'push it', and screw-up and have to cut the threads off and start again, I haven't saved any time, have I......
 
I got mine slightly used on ebay for $29.00.

ACtC-3dQEdb2MD-lnab_D_RrFOdT__5h4VypmjM4PRTw09zZIi0pTQAUvUKNhIA0rGnvaolbgxE_G5Xp6kJ6rxILUqveUPsFvH_sXtdingkG5_g3AfJTQw42s_HzUVrz3V-7QwgGYYKXvNlG-1adn0pRcpxEZg=w1201-h888-no
that looks good- they make so many models its a little hard to decide which one to order. looks like you just used a plastic tube for a coupler. looks easy to make - thanks
 
that looks good- they make so many models its a little hard to decide which one to order. looks like you just used a plastic tube for a coupler. looks easy to make - thanks
Back when i used one i got a 1/8npt connection and actually tapped the end of the barrel. You can make any of them work according to the surplus deal you find on ebay
 
Back when i used one i got a 1/8npt connection and actually tapped the end of the barrel. You can make any of them work according to the surplus deal you find on ebay
yep ive plumbed alot of differant stuff together- i guess you dont use one of these anymore
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,567
Messages
2,198,781
Members
78,989
Latest member
Yellowhammer
Back
Top