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How Does One Get Consistent Readings with the Hornady OAL Gauge

I've been experimenting with the Hornady OAL gauge and am finding poor consistency in the results. Of course, the measurement you get depends on how hard you jam the bullet into the rifling with the tool. Nonetheless, when operating the gauge with what seems like consistent pressure on the rod, I'm still getting differences in COAL running .040" from one measurement to the next. I"ve watched the Hornady video on using the tool and am following their suggestions.

Have some of you guys used this tool to determine the OAL that has the bullet just touching the rifling? If so, have you developed a technique that yields consistent measurements?
 
I've been experimenting with the Hornady OAL gauge and am finding poor consistency in the results. Of course, the measurement you get depends on how hard you jam the bullet into the rifling with the tool. Nonetheless, when operating the gauge with what seems like consistent pressure on the rod, I'm still getting differences in COAL running .040" from one measurement to the next. I"ve watched the Hornady video on using the tool and am following their suggestions.

Have some of you guys used this tool to determine the OAL that has the bullet just touching the rifling? If so, have you developed a technique that yields consistent measurements?
When I started out I used this tool and I could not get consistent numbers I would do it 10 times and get an average number and thought that was pretty close but that’s what it was just pretty close
 
I bought the tool a few years ago , it will get you in the ballpark but not a consistent reading. I'm shooting a Rem.700 in 308 that I use for strictly benchrest shooting. The stripped bolt method for datum and ogive settings is the most consistent method for me. The Hornady OAL tool sounded good to me also but when your dealing in thousands using your bolt and seating your bullet and checking is the most accurate . Aoce you find first your CBT Datum, setting your headspace measurement then go for your CBT Ogive. Sorry to say the tool will remain in the cabinet like mine.
 
In my line of shooting I just need to jam it and when it sticks start working my way out.
The actual distance to jam is irrelevant you just need a staring point.
I write down the jam distance ( and close is good enough )
I usually find a node before I get to .025 out. ( I run that number pretty much the life of the barrel give or take a couple thou.)
You dont need tool for this, just a loose neck tension close the bolt and let the bullet seat itself.
done.
 
Use a small wooden dowel rod and insert from muzzle. Then using COAL tool slide it and push bullet in and push dowel against it at same time. You’ll feel the bullet jam and ever so slightly push bullet out using down and keep slight pressure against bullet and push back to put bullet back in lands. It’s pushing against the bullet ever so slightly with dowel at same time pushing bullet into lands using the grey rod on the Hornady tool. I always had very consistent results. Never an issue. There should be video online using this method. That’s how I did it when I first started out
 
I've found this approach to give very consistent results:

Push the wire that pushes on the base of the bullet out far enough so the bullet will hit the lands
Gently put your finger on the end of the wire
Push the tool with the bullet into the chamber, allowing the bullet to push the wire back out [so, your finger has to be quite gentle on the end of the wire]
When the tool is all the way in the chamber, tighten the lock screw and measure.
=> Consistently get 1-2/1000's variation in measurements.

I used to seat the bullet so it would not engage the lands; push the tool all the way into the chamber, then push the wire so the bullet just touched the lands. Easy to get over 10/1000 difference in measurements.
 
The best way I found was to use a cleaning rod in the barrel against the bullet while using the device. This balances the force on the bullet to prevent it being jammed into the rifling. It takes a bit to get a feel for it. Just remember that the dimensions you get aren’t accurate to +/- .001, in actual practice you’re more likely getting results at the “+/- .01” level. In other words the resolution just isn’t that precise.
 
Everybody's technique is different, and you need to experiment to find what works for you. You don't need to find the point where the bullet just barely touches; that's going to be difficult, especially once the throat begins to erode. All you need is a reference point, and you work from there to find what the rifle likes.

What works for me is to extend the bullet well past the touch point, lock the wire, and firmly insert the bullet into the lands. Then release the wire, push the case firmly into the chamber, and re-lock the wire. The bullet will not come out with the case, but it's easy to tap it out with a cleaning rod or dowel.

The force pushing the bullet into the lands needs to be consistent. I use the angled tool, and with the bullet held long the wire will buckle inside the tool - I use that for my reference, similar to the click of a torque wrench.

I find it to be a good idea to make measurements with multiple bullets to get an average for the lot - 4 or 5 if there's only 0.001" variation (my usual case) to as many as 10 if there are reproducibility issues. Some people also like to keep one bullet aside as a reference so that erosion can be measured with certainty; I haven't found that to be necessary with the bullets I use.
 
1) Carefully push a cleaning rod into the barrel from the muzzle until you can feel the tip emerge past the chamber with your finger. Withdraw the rod ~6-8" and leave it in the barrel.

2) Place your bullet into the OAL Gauge case neck, loosen the set screw and allow the plastic push-rod to slide out until only part of the bullet nose is still visible. Tighten the set screw GENTLY...the push-rod is plastic and tightening the set screw vigorously will create a permanent dent in the groove running the length of the push-rod.

3) Push the case/bullet into the chamber, holding it firmly in the chamber against the shoulder with your index finger/thumb out near the very end of the aluminum outer rod (i.e. right where the plastic push-rod goes into it). I angle the tool with the "upper surface" at ~2:00 so the set screw is conveniently accessible. Use your other hand to gently slide the push-rod and bullet into the chamber until you just barely feel the bullet touch the lands. You can then use your index finger and thumb to continue holding the shoulder tight, as well as to squeeze them down over the plastic push-rod to prevent the bullet from backing out. Tighten the set screw GENTLY. I am right-handed, and so push the tool/bullet/push-rod with my left hand, and tighten the set screw with my right.

4) Carefully push the cleaning rod back into the barrel to move the bullet and tool out of the chamber, where you can withdraw it without the bullet falling out (if it does, it's ok to simply place it back in the case neck prior to measurement...it should be that loose). As you withdraw the tool from the back of the action, tilt it upright so the bullet doesn't fall out. Withdraw the cleaning rod back out ~6-8" for the next measurement.

5) Measure cartridge base-to-ogive and COAL with the tool tilted slightly upward...again, so the bullet doesn't fall out. It will likely be necessary to jiggle/move the lower jaw of the caliper a bit until it is perfectly flat against the cartridge base and the measurement stays constant. >>>Note getting the lower caliper jaw perfectly flat against the cartridge base is IMPORTANT when measuring with calipers. You may have to jiggle it around a bit, but when it becomes flush, you will "feel" it.

6) Repeat using the same bullet however much is necessary until you get the same measurement every time. Repetition will allow you to develop a feel for when the bullet is just touching the lands, how much to tighten the set screw, how much pressure to use holding the case in the chamber and on the plastic push-rod to keep the bullet touching the lands without jamming it. FWIW - when you use the cleaning rod to eject the bullet/tool from the chamber, you should NOT feel any initial resistance. If you do, it probably means you pushed too hard on the push-rod and jammed the bullet a few to several thousandths into the lands. So if you have to push a little harder on the cleaning rod at first, then the bullet/tool sort of "pops" loose suddenly, you jammed the bullet and the measurement will need to be re-done. If you follow these instructions exactly, it won't take very many measurements before you get that hang of it.

Caveats:
The procedure I have described is for the straight OAL Gauge in a bolt rifle, but it can also work with the angled tool in an AR-type rifle. However, the push-rod in the angled tool is much more difficult to move in/out, so it is also much more difficult to feel "touch". Nonetheless, the proper feel can still be developed with enough repetition. Likewise, the use of the OAL gauge is far easier when the rifle's freebore diameter allows free movement of the bullet out to touch the lands. For example, bullets slide completely freely out to "touching" in my .308s, which are all cut at 0.3085" diameter. However, I have a couple .223 Rem rifles that are throated long for Berger's 90 VLD. The freebore diameter there is 0.2242", which is tight enough to actually cause the bullet to stop moving at the beginning of the throat. So it is necessary to push a little harder on the push-rod to get the bullet moving again, but the be able to stop when you feel the bullet "touch" the lands. It is thus more difficult to obtain reproducible measurements with the tight-throated .223 Rem. Nonetheless, it is still possible with practice.
 
All you need is a reference point, and you work from there to find what the rifle likes.
Yup, that's what I do. I just need to know about where the "OTL" measurement is. A few tries and a couple of bullets and I know where it is within a thou or two. Then I experiment from there with different seating depths until I find the one that works best. The Hornady is cheap and works great.
 
As my 308 chamber is pretty tight, I found that the Hornady case was a "stiff" fit. Cured by sizing ,with a body die. Otherwise, pretty good +/- 2 thou. On a good day. But it gives you a point to start. My chamber measures 2.222 to the lands, with the Hornady thing - so I'll start at say 5 thou under that, then 5 thou increments. Then see what the target says. Worked out so far.
 
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You don't need to find the point where the bullet just barely touches; that's going to be difficult, especially once the throat begins to erode. All you need is a reference point, and you work from there to find what the rifle likes.

Exactly so! People have to remember the readings are relative and reference points as @ronemus says for that rifle. Also bear it in mind when you read [frequently!] on this forum about bullet settings that are allegedly precise in relation to the lands to a single 0.001". They might or might not be, but in any event refer to the author's determined (by whatever method) starting point, not necessarily precisely to the COAL that gives the merest bullet kiss on the lands.

So far as this tool goes, IME, it works best with relatively slack factory chambers. I don't use it for any 'minimum SAAMI' match chamber as I reckon the drilled/tapped/modified cases don't fit such chambers over well and often give false readings.
 
Sometimes your bullet hangs up in the chamber on the feed ramp or something. Stand the gun on the recoil pad and run it up from there. Had that happening on one of my rifles and this worked.
 
I've been experimenting with the Hornady OAL gauge and am finding poor consistency in the results. Of course, the measurement you get depends on how hard you jam the bullet into the rifling with the tool. Nonetheless, when operating the gauge with what seems like consistent pressure on the rod, I'm still getting differences in COAL running .040" from one measurement to the next. I"ve watched the Hornady video on using the tool and am following their suggestions.

Have some of you guys used this tool to determine the OAL that has the bullet just touching the rifling? If so, have you developed a technique that yields consistent measurements?
I gave up on the Hornady gauge. The results were all over the place. I use the split neck method. It works great but only if you get the correct neck tension. Too tight and the bullet sticks, pulls out then releases.
 
never had a issue with the Hornady myself. I just insert it till I feel pressure then tap it gently a few times to give me what I call touch +1. I do this with five bullets randomly picked. About every 200 rounds I check it and adjust my seating depth. The five bullets in the session are rarely off more than .001 from each other but I average the readings to be safe

Works well enough to keep around .5 MOA which is all I need for F class
 
The Hornady instructions are telling you not to push very hard, and a light push will give inconsistent readings. Push harder. If you push so hard you stick the bullet in the lands, that's too hard, back off a bit.
As previously noted, the reading is just a reference point, from which you set your bullet seating depth, and let the target tell you that number.

To really find the "touch" point, you need to use the stripped bolt "Wheeler method" for finding lands, and for sizing brass.
Wheeler method
 

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