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How are you guys applying dry lube?

Imperial dry neck lube , buy the convenience pack that has the little jar with the ceramic balls and neck lube plus another jar of just the neck lube stuff.... It's a two pack... Graphites or molly or whatever is some messy stuff , just buy the correct stuff and save yourself some headaches... I only use this stuff with brand new brass or brass that has no carbon in the necks...
 
Just get this from Brownells and be done with it. This is all you need. When I seat bullets I dip them in this also.
This is exactly what I wish I had started with, but Now I already have a jar of just the imperial redding graphite.

I'll add the imperial application media on a future order some time.

Thanks everyone for the quick replies.
 
Im trying to recall, at work, who I got a small pair of tubs with a ceramic type balls (very small) that you drop the dry lube into and shake, dip the case mouth/shoulder into 1-3 x and it applies it very cleanly. Looks like the size of a tub of JB bore paste size, lasts a long time!
If I remember to look when I get home can post again.
Probably the NECO kit
 
I’m thinking about switching my 21st Century moly to the #9 shot. The beads will lodge in the necks sometimes. The shot may do it too?
No way if the shot is fine enough and remember it's lead so gravitates straight outta the case back into the container.
Like any dry lube (I use graphite) it takes a few cases to get sufficient lube onto die insides but once done you are good to go. You could add some extra to get you started with a cotton bud......
 
No way if the shot is fine enough and remember it's lead so gravitates straight outta the case back into the container.
Like any dry lube (I use graphite) it takes a few cases to get sufficient lube onto die insides but once done you are good to go. You could add some extra to get you started with a cotton bud......
I think I may switch to the shot then. The beads on the 21st Century moly have been a little bit of a PIA on sticking in the case necks every so often.
By the way the moly does seem slicker and not as abrasive as the Redding dry lube.
 
I think I may switch to the shot then. The beads on the 21st Century moly have been a little bit of a PIA on sticking in the case necks every so often.
By the way the moly does seem slicker and not as abrasive as the Redding dry lube.
Dunno, never used it.
Powdered graphite is one of them age old great lubes and never should be discounted in favour of any of any new fangled concoction IMHO. A little messy for sure but a roll of paper towels at the bench fixes that.
 
I am probably about to start a flame war (asbestos suit on) due to the religious aspect of moly coating, but I've been doing it for 25 years and I'm not about to change. Moly-coated bullets don't care what's in reasonably clean necks, even bare brass, as long as a bur-free VLD chamfer is used; the coating is intact on pulled bullets and there is no change in performance whether the neck ID is bare brass or carbon covered. I wet clean and anneal after every firing, so my necks are always bare brass now although they're not polished. I moly-coat my own bullets, so they have a polished metallic sheen with no loose moly to make a mess. When impact plating using Lyman ceramic media in a vibratory tumbler very little moly is needed, and the little bit that remains on the bullets is easily removed by rolling in a towel. No real mess at any stage, and my hands and work area stay clean.
 
I’ve used the white powder lube from RCBS , seems to work well.
 
I recently took the plunge and purchased the small jar of Neolube #2, it's graphite suspended in alcohol. I apply it with a small foam tipped applicator, got a bunch off Temu for cheap. I just get it lightly wet, and run it around inside the neck. I use a small desk light that is shining on the end of the neck, to verify I got an even coat as I spin it. Works great, and I can do it pretty fast on a batch of 100 at at a time. The bottle is expensive, but I think it'll last me the rest of my life.
 
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