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Usage of redding dry neck lube

My dry neck lube brush kit is an old Bonanza, about a 1980 vintage, it is just part of any expanding or sizing process I do. I am always telling people to use it for any die that uses the existing expander button, expander mandrels, neck sizing, use on the neck when FLS'ing, the difference is like night and day, no fuss, no muss, won't hurt powder. I don't tumble after sizing, I can have the rounds done and in the box by the time people finish tumbling them, even by wiping them by hand. I prefer the brushes to the Redding style with the balls, it works, but didn't really seem as good as the brush setup. Q-tip applying liquid neck lube is a counterproductive effort in my mind, the brush dry lube is a one handed process, lube the case, dip it, stick it in the press.
 
My first preference for inside neck lube is the powder fouling left in the neck after firing. But you must run a nylon brush through shortly after firing to eliminate hard carbon build up. When I do use Reddings graphite lube (usually on new cases) I dip the neck and then drop the powder. Make sure the neck is dry so that those ceramic balls do not adhere to the case. I have also used motor mica on a Bonanza tool with different size brushes. I tend to use the Redding product more.
^^^^^^^
This!….. and don’t wet tumble
Wayne
 
Not Redding but I use Lyman "ultra fine" dry lube on a Q-tip in the necks after sizing and before charging and seating a bullet. Made a big difference in seating pressure consistency for me
 
It was just my attempt to let it be known that lubing inside the neck with Motor Mica or Redding has been going on for decades with no ill effect. I use the Redding and lube the inside of the case mouth with a Q-Tip. I can dip and swirl it if I want I just prefer the Q-Tip method.
I’ve used a mixture of motor mica and powdered graphite for more years than I can count. I use the little Lyman box with brushes to apply it BEFORE sizing the case. Makes a world of difference in pulling the sizing ball back through the neck and seating bullets. I do not relube before seating bullets.
 
Bonanza was the first to offer those little cases with the brushes and Foster just puts their name on the case these days… Just the same as the Co-Ax press just has FOSTER cast into the front instead of of BONANZA… They bought out Bonanza years ago but continue the full line of products and press parts for the “new” Co-AX will fit an old Bonanza…
 
NECO has a similar product to the one that PMA has.
 
Guys, it’s called DRY NECK lube. You are supposed to apply it liberally on the back of your neck before you go shooting. It will relieve the tension you feel when you shoot prone prolonged. Do this before your next club/competition shoot.
SPF 50 sunblock too!
 
I wasn’t aware John sold dry neck lube. Thanks I’ll give them a call. I rarely use neck lube as I don’t use carburetor or parts cleaners with ss pins to ruin my brass!… I leave the natural lube left by the burned powder ,… called carbon in my necks. The rare occasions I need neck lube I’ve always been happy with Redding but I’ll give Johns a try.
Wayne
 
I also just dip the neck into the ceramic beads then tap the case mouth on a board to get any loose dry lube off. I only use it on new brass or just annealed brass. Like bozo699, the carbon in the neck seems to be enough on fired cases to lube.
 
I find that annealing the necks and shoulder will burn out whatever was in the neck, and leave a poor surface for seating. When processing my brass after an anneal , I use the graphite coated ceramic beads ( Redding Imperial) before mandrel sizing the neck and seating the bullet.
 

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