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Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Reloading Kit... is it good?

https://www.cabelas.ca/index.cfm?pageID=71&&section=1187&section2=1285&section3=1474&ID=3534

If you buy the kit above and replace the press with the Lee Classic Cast you will have a great set-up to get yourself started. All you will need (as far as the bare necessities) are dies, case length gauge and shell holder(for trimming cases), calipers, components (brass, primers, powder and bullets, a good loading manual (Modern Reloading Second Edition is great as it covers the use of most Lee tools) and a bench.
Honestly, you can use the press that is included in the kit and still get great results. I have one that I still use to this day, though the Classic Cast is super rugged and just feels great to use. I don't think I could ever really wear out the Classic Cast with normal use. I only suggest replacing the included press with the Cast as it is a tool that will truly last a lifetime. The Breech Lock Challenger is also a nice press, but being made of aluminum it is bound to get sloppy at some point, though with care and lubrication it will likely be years away. The powder measure that comes with the Lee kit is also very accurate. I like it better than most other measures I have tried, with the exception of a Harrell's.

Classic Cast Press: https://www.cabelas.ca/index.cfm?pageID=71&&section=1187&section2=1285&section3=1474&ID=3541

This will get you set-up and ready to load for a good bit less than the Hornady or RCBS kit.

Case length gauge and shell holder for included trimmer: https://www.cabelas.ca/index.cfm?pageID=71&&section=1187&section2=1285&section3=1474&ID=4389

Modern Reloading Second Edition: https://www.cabelas.ca/index.cfm?pageID=71&&section=1187&section2=1285&section3=1474&ID=4622

Dial Calipers: https://www.cabelas.ca/index.cfm?pageID=71&&section=1187&section2=1285&section3=1462&ID=1473


And if you are going to load for one of the calibers that are available in the Classic LEE Loader hand tool, I suggest you buy one and give it a try. It's a very simple tool that will give you a very good understanding of the process without the confusion of trying to set up dies in a press and adjusting them properly. All you need to load ammo with this tool are components and a plastic mallet. It's the cheapest complete loading system available and is capable of loading very accurate ammo if you use it properly. I have used it to load ammo that will shoot under .5 MOA. It's not a "replacement" for a press and dies, but it is a very good learning tool and is also convenient as you can use it nearly anywhere.

https://www.cabelas.ca/index.cfm?pageID=71&&section=1187&section2=1285&section3=1474&ID=3552
 
The Hornady and RCBS kits are very nice as well. I just don't feel you need to spend a ton to get started and load good, accurate ammo. It can be done just as well on less costly equipment with identical results. If you feel you need to spend a ton, by all means go for it. You will end up with nice equipment with any of the 3 choices you have.

Lee has served me well for many years now. I feel they are the best value for the dollar with most of their loading equipment.
 
I have a Horday locknload press with powder measure, it is great for volume loading,

I suggest, unless you want volume, and do want modest cost and accurcy, you go with the RCBS Rock Chucker kit, i have one over 25 years old and still very solid no slop etc. you can get very good ammo out of one with a reasonable effort. their guarentee is excellent if you run into any problems. The powder measure is excellent and i recomend the purchase of the micro adjustment for it as it makes it very easy to adjust and change powder settings.

Bob
 
Thank you very much Kenny474. Thanks for taking the time to find the links. To bad everything is backordered on cabelas.

bheadboy said:
I have a Horday locknload press with powder measure, it is great for volume loading,

I suggest, unless you want volume, and do want modest cost and accurcy, you go with the RCBS Rock Chucker kit, i have one over 25 years old and still very solid no slop etc. you can get very good ammo out of one with a reasonable effort. their guarentee is excellent if you run into any problems. The powder measure is excellent and i recomend the purchase of the micro adjustment for it as it makes it very easy to adjust and change powder settings.

Bob
What do you mean by volume loading?
Would the hornady kit be better then a RCBS kit? There is only $30 difference.
 
The dies are universal 7/8x14, the rock chucker is a single stage loading one at a time through each step, a Hornaday of single stage is the same,

however, the Hornaday l-n-l auto advance is capable of much higher volume loading and gives quality also, i personally would not buy the RCBS auto advance press setup but have and like the HornadaY l-n-l AUTO

if you are looking for "match' type loading go the single stage.

both are quality,

Bob
 
One thing I would add for anyone just starting is to throw away those #/%^& universal loading blocks that try to accomodate everything from .22 Hornet through large magnums, and buy or make cartridge specific trays. The poly blocks from Sinclair are a great value.
 
All of the manufactures offering "kits", Lee included offer reliable safe products that will give long years of service. I agree with Kenny 474 if you can find a Lee Clasic in the round you wish to reload for give it a try to see if handloading is really your bag. You might throw in a Lee Autoprime as well as the Classic priming system is a bit of a chore. I started in 1975 with a Lee Clasic in 30-06. From there I went to a Lee Chalenger and many different rounds, including pistol. The old Lee O frame press had a weakness in the togel system and after replacing parts I finally bought a Redding Boss single stage which my grandsons will never wear out. The newer Lee Chalenger press has corrected the togel problem I believe. I still use mine at the range to reload with it mounted to a board and clamped to a bench. I have used Lee, RCBS, Hornady, and Redding dies and have had good results with all. If down the road you want higher volume, then by all means invest in a progressive, especally for pistol rounds. It is much faster, does take more time to set up and master, and probably is not capable of loadinf the absolute most accurate amo, but still loads good accurate safe amo if used properly. They cost more but most people I know who use a progressiv say the Dillon's are the best. Good luck.
 
Boltman13, I still have a 12ga Lee Classic Loader and use it regularly. I use my rifle models quite a bit as well. They work well and are as compact as a loading kit can be. Easy to pack to hunting camp or wherever you need it to be.
 
Kenny, at one time I had one in 30-06, 257 Roberts, 38 Spl, and 7X57 Mauser. I gave the 30-06 one to a friend who is now a serious reloader, the others I donated to my Gun Club,s Garage Sale. They all went real fast. I have a friend who shoots Hunter Benchrest and loads at the range using his Lee Classic in 308 Win and the results he gets are easily the equal of mine using a Wilson. He also uses the Lee Autoprime not the Classic system to prime his cases. He even uses a Lee powder dipper to measure and charge his cases with powder.
 
With deer season coming... well it starts today here. I decided to buy a deer rifle. I ordered a Savage 11/FCXP3 in .270 win. Also to try reloading I bought a lee reloading hand loading set. https://www.cabelas.ca/index.cfm?pageID=71&&section=1187&section2=1285&section3=1474&ID=3552

So im looking for any tips for reloading with the handloader set.
Also a starting load might help.

I ordered federal large rifle mag. match primers. (I heard you can use either large rifle or mag primers but its better off with mag primers)
I ordered IMR 4064 powder.
I got 135gr Sierra HPBT match bullets and Nosler ballistic tip hunting bullets in 130gr.

Any one have an idea as to where to start for a load?
 
First off, you need a good solid bench with a very flat and smooth top to work on. It makes cleaning up any spilled powder easy, as you need to use a dust pan and hand broom as a vacuum will get messy in a hurry if the powder reaches the motor!

Second, you need a scale or a set of the LEE dippers. The scoop that is included will work with some powders, but as it has only one setting I am not sure you will have a safe load with the powder you have chosen for the bullet weights you have. And it's always good to check weight on a scale to make sure you are running a safe load anyway.
Buy the LEE Safety scale if you are going to get a scale right now. It's inexpensive and works well. You need to watch it though, as you can slide the fine adjustment weight easily. But as long as you pay attention you will have no issue. I actually had a Lyman scale that I paid a lot more for and ended up selling it because the LEE was more accurate and much more sensitive.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=712103

You could also go with the complete set of LEE dippers, as they have a chart to tell you how much powder you need by volume to get a certain weight. As long as you stay a bit below max loads you will be plenty safe. I actually use them myself quite often, especially when loading plinking rounds for my Mosin or I need a few more rounds of ammo at hunting camp. I can usually dip charges within .1-.2 grain of each other, which is fine for a factory rifle capable of average accuracy.
https://www.cabelas.ca/index.cfm?pageID=71&&section=1187&section2=1285&section3=1474&ID=3555

The reason I suggest a scale or the dippers is so you have a bit of adjustment in charge weight so you can better tune your load. The dippers are a great way to start out if you are only loading a small amount of ammo and you aren't striving to get that last little bit of accuracy from the rifle. I think you would do just fine with the dippers as long as you are careful and use them properly.

You will need a few other tools as well. A plastic mallet is a necessity. Rubber won't work as it's too soft. And metal will damage your brass. They can be purchased for short money, and a new one with a square face will be best.

Dial or digital calipers are a good idea as well. You don't have to go all out, as even the cheapies are usually close enough to work for most all uses in reloading. Just measure something of known dimension to make sure they are accurate.
Link to some decent digitals from Harbor Freight. I have a set and they work fine. Nothing special, but for $20 they are a great deal.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html

But if you need to, you can set the bullet seating depth on a factory round. Just put in a loaded factory round with a bullet of the same weight and adjust the die until the seater touches the top of the bullet. Now your rounds will be the same length as factory ammo.

I think you should be just fine to get started with the equipment I have listed. Just look around a bit and you will find good deals and get out of it cheap.
I will give you an idea of the total cost:
Dippers:................................$12
Digital calipers:.......................$20
Plastic mallet:.........................$10
Lee Safety Scale:....................$22

So about $42 with the dippers, $52 with the scale, and $64 with both the scale and dippers.
 
Now for load data. These loads are for standard large rifle primers. You don't need magnum primers, and they should only be used when the manual states they are necessary. IMR4064 isn't slow enough to necessitate magnum primers, nor does the .270 contain enough powder unless you get into the really slow powder like Reloder22. I use standard in my 30-06, and also use slower powder in a few loads as well with no issue.
If you don't mind me asking, who told you it's better to use magnum primers and what was their reasoning?

I personally would have went with a different powder choice for better load density. Reloader22 and 19, H4350, H4831, H450 and several others would have provided better load density for a fuller case. But IMR4064 should work well also.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LOAD DATA FOR .270 WINCHESTER 130GR NOSLER BALLISTIC TIP
(POWDER)(START GRS)(CC's)(VEL@STRT)(MAX GRS)(VEL@MAX)(PRESSURE)(MIN. OAL)
IMR4064 42.9 3.20 2728FPS 48.0 3030FPS 51200CUP 3.250"

RE22 55.8 3.89 2956FPS 60.0 3160FPS 61500PSI 3.250"

RE19 53.4 3.77 2909FPS 57.5 3110FPS 61600PSI 3.250"

H4350 51.0 3.70 2844FPS 54.3 3012FPS 63125PSI 3.280"

H4831 56.0 4.06 2824FPS 60.0(c) 3019FPS 63750PSI 3.280"

H450 55.0 3.59 2918FPS 60.0 3150FPS 60875PSI 3.065"

(c) is for compressed load.
All info taken from Modern Reloading Second Edition and has been triple checked for errors in charge weight or OAL. All info is identical to the book itself.

The Sierra 135gr SMK is not suitable for hunting. I also don't have data for it either.

Any questions just ask. If you end up with the Lee dipper set, I can explain to you how to use them properly
 
Thanks for the info Kenny474.

I read online not to bother with large rifle primers and just use mag primers.

What powder should I order?

I made an order from Wholesale Sports in Canada and its taking for ever to ship. They havent charged my card yet either. I'm going to call them tomorrow. I might cancel the order and get different stuff.

Unless you figure I can use the stuff I have ordered with no problems.
 
I would try reloder 19. I have had good results with their powder, and RE 19 has worked well for me in the past. You can use the mag primers, but I don't bother with them. LR primers have plenty of flame to ignite a standard case.
 
I called whole sale sports to try ot change my order and every thing is on back order. So I think I'm lucky to have gotten what I got. Ill try it and see how it goes.

Does the powder measure change with a mag or regular large rifle primer?

Also I ordered a Lee Precision Safety Power Scale.
 
Stinky_LakeHead, a word from a fellow Canuck. Once you decide you like reloading and want to move up in equipment, get the RCBS RockChucker kit. All you need extra are the dies and shellholder which by now you may already have.

I have had a RockChucker since 1985. Great powerful press. Have loaded everything from a .22 Hornet to a 7mm Rem Mag to a .375 Whelen Improved. Still going strong.
 
I have used both the RCBS Rockchucker and the Lee Classic Cast press. They are both very strong, but the LEE unit has far better features and costs half of what the Rockchucker does. I see no point in spending more money on the RCBS when the Lee is just as strong, will load ammo just as well, and costs so much less. Just a few examples of LEE's superior engineering; The spent primers go straight down the ram into a tube that will guide them into a trash can or it has a plug to just keep them in the tube, the Lee uses the safety prime system which works far better than the RCBS system if you choose to prime on the press, Lee's operating handle is adjustable for length and angle, and it doesn't cam over.

It's not to say the RockChucker is a bad press, as it's one of the better on the market and is far stronger than need be. I just feel you can spend less money and still end up with a great product that will last just as long and load ammo just as accurately.

If you are going to spend more money than you will on the LEE Classic Cast, don't bother with the RCBS. Buy a Forster Co-Ax as it's the best press money can buy hands down. It has a superior design than that of either the LEE or RCBS and will likely last forever.
 
K0na_stinky said:
I called whole sale sports to try ot change my order and every thing is on back order. So I think I'm lucky to have gotten what I got. Ill try it and see how it goes.

Does the powder measure change with a mag or regular large rifle primer?

Also I ordered a Lee Precision Safety Power Scale.

In regards to reducing powder charge for a magnum primer, you may have to reduce it slightly. But since you are starting from scratch and don't have any pre-established loads to work with, just start at the start load and work up slowly and watch for signs of pressure.

The Lee scale is a good little scale and is very accurate and easy to use once you understand it's quirks. Just make sure the fine adjustment slide doesn't move from load to load and you will be all set.
 

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