shoot4fun
Gold $$ Contributor
I am beginning to think the anneal may have gotten the cases too hot too close to the case head. That will most definitely cause the issue you are having.
HORNADY BRASS
- Thread starter stacy
- Start date
I am beginning to think the anneal may have gotten the cases too hot too close to the case head. That will most definitely cause the issue you are having.
Shot lots of Hornady over the years.
Far prefer Lapua when it counts.
Far prefer Lapua when it counts.
stacy
2 TIMOTHY 2 VERSE 15
IT FUNNY THAT MY BUDDY BRASS THAT I SOLD HIM OUT THE SHOP DID THE SAME THING I ANNEALED IT BUT IT WAS ON A TURN TABLE IN THE DARK SHOULDER NECK CONJUCTION THAT IT
nakneker
Gold $$ Contributor
I ordered some Peterson 6.5 Creedmoor brass after not being happy with Hornady brass.
Weight spread in 50 pieces = 2.8 grs
If separated by .5 gr, 36 pieces fall within, 24 of which weighed within .10
Brass length was uniform and nicely prepped.
Price was 36bucks for 50 and it came in nice ammo boxes.
Haven't been to the range yet but it was a nice change from the Hornady brass I had tried previously.
Weight spread in 50 pieces = 2.8 grs
If separated by .5 gr, 36 pieces fall within, 24 of which weighed within .10
Brass length was uniform and nicely prepped.
Price was 36bucks for 50 and it came in nice ammo boxes.
Haven't been to the range yet but it was a nice change from the Hornady brass I had tried previously.
shoot4fun
Gold $$ Contributor
I am sure you're trying to tell us something with this comment but what?
And please stop with the all CAPS.
Take it easy on Stacy. He has poor eyesight.
26 posts and all but one {unless I am missing another one that touches on it} is jacking back and forth about the brass manufacturing quality...when the real two questions should first be, "what is the headspace set at on this rifle????" and "what is the headspace case length on the resized brass???????"
It amazes me {well, not really...just sayin'} how many people reload and not only don't have a clue regarding these most important of dimensions, but don't understand why they are important and very high probability they don't have the tooling to verify. Not trying to bust on the OP, sorry if you take it that way. My point is that you have a premature case separation, never mention headspace and move right to "is this brass any good???" when what first needs to be looked at is some dimensions on both the rifle and the loaded rounds.
It amazes me {well, not really...just sayin'} how many people reload and not only don't have a clue regarding these most important of dimensions, but don't understand why they are important and very high probability they don't have the tooling to verify. Not trying to bust on the OP, sorry if you take it that way. My point is that you have a premature case separation, never mention headspace and move right to "is this brass any good???" when what first needs to be looked at is some dimensions on both the rifle and the loaded rounds.
msinc has it right. Headspace, headspace, headspace! Without the tools to measure base to shoulder and base to ogive, you're left with guess work when you hand load. Not the best of worlds, IMOP
For those who aren't sure what is headspace, keep reading. Others can just hit the back button.
So...I've got a new 6.5 CM barrel spun on my action, headspaced on the tight side and now I want to shoot some factory ammo (Hornaday) and intend to use the brass for hand loads. I measure the base to shoulder dimension of the new, never shot ammo brass and record that dimension.
After spending the day at the range breaking in the new barrel, I punch the primers out of the spent brass without doing any sort of sizing to the case, and measure the base to shoulder dimension and record it, noting any stretch the case has undergone during the first fire forming cycle.
I chamber the empty brass and check fit. Bolt closes easily so I set my die up to neck size the brass only and check again to see that I have not bumped the shoulder back. I load a moderate load and shoot to fire form the brass again. It should be fully fire formed to conform to the chamber dimension by now. Sometimes a third fire forming is necessary.
I chamber the spent brass again, and note a stiff bolt close. I measure the base to shoulder and note that dimension as the maximum. I then set my die to bump the shoulder back .002, chambering again to confirm easy bolt close, and note that dimension in my records.
For easy access, I make a drawing of the cartridge case with these dimensions noted and post it on my reloading room wall above my loading bench.
When reloading, if I note my shoulder bump dimension is becoming erratic, probably due to brass work hardening, I anneal. Same for bullet seating force. Work hardened necks and shoulders tend to impede consistency. Annealing returns the brass to stress relieved state and i like to do it every two or three cycles.
One day at the range, I sat next to a guy shooting a brand new 300 Win mag. Every case he ejected was separating. The 300 WMag is a belted cartridge that headspaces off the belt, not the shoulder. His chamber was so overly long, every cartridge stretched beyond its limits and split during firing. He sent it back to the factory.
With an improperly set headspace, or sizing die, you can stretch your brass to the breaking point in one firing, or several.
Using the above procedure you will set your dies to conform to your particular chamber. If you have several guns in the same chambering, keep your brass and dies segregated and you'll have great brass life. Or if you build your own guns, set up the chambers identically and use one die.
For those who aren't sure what is headspace, keep reading. Others can just hit the back button.
So...I've got a new 6.5 CM barrel spun on my action, headspaced on the tight side and now I want to shoot some factory ammo (Hornaday) and intend to use the brass for hand loads. I measure the base to shoulder dimension of the new, never shot ammo brass and record that dimension.
After spending the day at the range breaking in the new barrel, I punch the primers out of the spent brass without doing any sort of sizing to the case, and measure the base to shoulder dimension and record it, noting any stretch the case has undergone during the first fire forming cycle.
I chamber the empty brass and check fit. Bolt closes easily so I set my die up to neck size the brass only and check again to see that I have not bumped the shoulder back. I load a moderate load and shoot to fire form the brass again. It should be fully fire formed to conform to the chamber dimension by now. Sometimes a third fire forming is necessary.
I chamber the spent brass again, and note a stiff bolt close. I measure the base to shoulder and note that dimension as the maximum. I then set my die to bump the shoulder back .002, chambering again to confirm easy bolt close, and note that dimension in my records.
For easy access, I make a drawing of the cartridge case with these dimensions noted and post it on my reloading room wall above my loading bench.
When reloading, if I note my shoulder bump dimension is becoming erratic, probably due to brass work hardening, I anneal. Same for bullet seating force. Work hardened necks and shoulders tend to impede consistency. Annealing returns the brass to stress relieved state and i like to do it every two or three cycles.
One day at the range, I sat next to a guy shooting a brand new 300 Win mag. Every case he ejected was separating. The 300 WMag is a belted cartridge that headspaces off the belt, not the shoulder. His chamber was so overly long, every cartridge stretched beyond its limits and split during firing. He sent it back to the factory.
With an improperly set headspace, or sizing die, you can stretch your brass to the breaking point in one firing, or several.
Using the above procedure you will set your dies to conform to your particular chamber. If you have several guns in the same chambering, keep your brass and dies segregated and you'll have great brass life. Or if you build your own guns, set up the chambers identically and use one die.
Paging FGuffey!
Paging FGuffey!
You guys just cant let that dude be can ya'????? LOL...I must have missed out on something that happened a while back...I am certain of it. Every time someone posts about headspace or shoulders he gets a "page" on the thread.
That's the same place most other people get it wrong too.......I had a kid bring me a slug gun once and asked if I could "check the headspace and make sure it was right", because he didn't think he had enough. When I asked him why he said, "the scope keeps hitting me right above my eye"......as of that time he hadn't quite gotten into reloading yet!!!
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stacy
2 TIMOTHY 2 VERSE 15
I USING 210M PRIMERS NOT 450'S I USE THOSE IN MY 6.5X47
stacy
2 TIMOTHY 2 VERSE 15
NO HARM MY FRIEND JUST CANT SEE LIKE I ONCE COULD !!
shoot4fun
Gold $$ Contributor
I Already am!!!!!!
Again, I reduce case travel, I have said there has to be something about the events that happen between pulling the trigger and the bullet leaving the barrel reloaders do not understand. A friend built some magnificent wildcat 7mm rifles, he made the reamer he had 5 case head separations out of the first 10 cases he fired. I suggested he could have determine that would happen before he left the shop for the range. I told him I could have fixed the problem after he got to the range and then I told him that does not happen to me because I do not use the same receiver he used.
I form cases, I form cases to cut down on all that case travel; and then there is all that shoulder stuff that moves, I claim the shoulder on my cases do not move when I fire them, I claim it is impossible to move the shoulder back with a sizing die that has case body support. Responses? All I get is lip service, angry people. How does a reloader move the shoulder back? How does a reloader bump the shoulder back? What is a bump press? What is a cam-over press. RCBS claims the cam over press is a bump press.
F. Guffey
I form cases, I form cases to cut down on all that case travel; and then there is all that shoulder stuff that moves, I claim the shoulder on my cases do not move when I fire them, I claim it is impossible to move the shoulder back with a sizing die that has case body support. Responses? All I get is lip service, angry people. How does a reloader move the shoulder back? How does a reloader bump the shoulder back? What is a bump press? What is a cam-over press. RCBS claims the cam over press is a bump press.
F. Guffey
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