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HELP!!!!!!!with 7mm-08

Ok here it goes, i have a rem model 7mm-08 with a hogg stock and sporter barrel, factory trigger at a smooth 1.5 lbl. just a plan rifle, i have bedded the action and it turned out pretty good for the stock it was in, thought it was going to help it 100%, but guess not now.
spent all day at rang, i loaded there. hornady brass 20 pieces fire formed to action, fed primers, h414, and a 140 nosler bullet. started at 39 gr and went all the way to it started showing preesure signs. oal to ogive was 2.233 inch with was .010 into lands, did not change oal, i want to be able to feed form mag , hunting rifle for my son.
it will not shoot for nothing >:(. i think i could throw a rock better than it shoots. after trying this load, i changed scopes. i had a nikon 8-32 monarch on it and put a leupold 40 power off of a 30br, thought i was having scope problems but i have ruled that out. i shot 3 shot groups and let the barrel cool between groups. it shoots all over the place. like 6 inch groups at 100 yard. at one piont i had 3 within 2 inch but i think thst was luck more than anything. i know this is a factory, but come on it should do better than this. i thought remm was a pretty good rifle, but my 3 passed rifle have been nothing i would spend money on agian. at this point i thinking i will never own another rem 700, the price has gone threw the roof and there quality has hit the floor.

i changed powders and tried varget and h380. still nothing, i have tried factory loads, 139 hornady, win, and rem. also shot the fusion bullets in it. i think i am going to have a good mater stake for the garden next year.
 
How old is the rifle and what model M700 is it? The reason I ask, is that if the rifle is older then 5 years, I’d bet it’s the barrel. The old chromoly barrels suck. If you have just bought the rifle this past summer you where just unlucky.

Or...

Which Nosler bullet did you use (partition, ballistic tip, solid base…) and why did you choose to move the bullet .010” into the lands? Where the cartridges slopping around in the magazine? Most jacked bullets like to touch or just be off the lands. With the exception of VLD’s.

You may need to pad the inside of the magazine.

I have bought 2 SPS in the last 3 years. One was a .243 Stainless for my wife and the other a .308 Varminter for 1000yrd (chromoly barrel). Both rifles will constantly shoot at or under 1” groups (a group is 5 shoots) at 100yrd. This is a stock with no modifications other then tuning the trigger.

The .243 is loaded as: Lake City brass necked down, preped and necks turned; Winchester Large Rifle Primer; 39.5gr H414; Berger 90gr VLD just touching the lands. The .308 is loaded as: Federal brass, preped and necks turned; Zapalky Large Rifle Primer; 46.9gr Varget; the new Sierra 155gr MK just touching the lands.

The .308 when in my 40XB stock holds a minuet of angle when shooting 1000yrd (no wind of course).

I paid just around $700.00 a piece for both and find that to be a bargain. ;D
 
Check all your screws, make sure every thing is tight. My 7-08 load is winchester brass CCI BR-2 primer, IMR 4064 38grns. I use this load for high power silhouette with 150 match kings. Hunting load I use a 150 ballistic tip very accurate.
 
cheek9075,
I know you are ticked off I can tell by your post i could barly understand it. No worries I have been there myself way more than once with factory rifles ???
1st off you can do way more harm than good by bedding a rifle inncorectly,no offense but was it done right? 2nd as stated before I can't imagine it shooting good .010 into the lands, I would try .010 off the lands
(ESPECIALLY SINCE IT IS A HUNTING RIFLE!!!!) 3rd have you cleaned it completly to the bone? I have had rifles with hardly any riflings left @ all and can usually can get 1.5-2" out of them. start fresh another day with a open mind to your problem and check to see if your barreled action is binding or touching somewhere it isn't suspose to Seat those bullets in .020, torque your action screws down correctly and give it another try. And good luck to you.
Wayne.

P.S mine shoots 1/2" @ 100 yds with 40 grains of varget , fed 210 match and 140 grain accubonds
 
I had the same luck with several model 7 rifles a couple of years ago. I tried (1)7mm-08, and (2) different 260 rems. they were ss syn models. I wanted one to work, because they are the perfect deer hunting rifle for mtn. hunting. they were all crap. finally got one to shoot 2" groups, good enough for deer hunting that year, but not much confidence there shooting over 100yds. I finally gave up hope after 10+ different groups, bedding, etc. sorry to not offer much hope, but if you can't get it to shoot any better than 6", then I don't think you can help it much. I would think even a heavily copper fouled barrel would still shoot better. sell it and buy an TC Icon, they are about the same price as a new rem, and will out shoot them.
 
Cheek,
I have about 2500 rounds through two different 7mm-08's, and shot / loaded for a few others and usually 41-43 grains of Varget with Nosler 140 BT's works in all of them (standard 42.5 for me). Load them to 2.8" oal and don't try to jam the bullets.

When mine start to open up, it's usually barrel related, and in my case it's carbon, not copper. Before you punt the barrel, which is an expensive proposition, I'd really get agressive on barrel cleaning and focus on the first 6 inches in front of the chamber. Being a traded gun, you don't know the previous owner's cleaning habits or how much it was shot. At this point you have little to lose with agressive cleaning (like GM TEC, JB paste, or even solvent saturated steel wool over a nylon brush) as your next worst option is barrel replacement. I've seen it work before. And remeber, sometimes the barrel is layered with carbon and copper, so you'll need to use different solvents that work on each.
Elkbane


One other thing to check - when you bedded it did you tape off the sides and underneath the recoil lug to provide a little clearance? if there's no space there, you could be flexing your action when you torque it down with the action screws...Hog it out a little with a dremmel if it's tight fit.
 
Cheek, i have and have had 5 of this ventage, all shoot! .5-.6" 5 shots with 3-9x or 3.5-10x luepold.


my loads all were 140 Sierra sbt or 140 nosler bt, 9 1/2 primers or Fed,
all in R/p brass. all loaded to jump 10-20/1000, all cronoed 2885+/- in 24in bbl 2835fps+ in 22"

they never shot well when pushed harder, all free floated bbl with 1 inch bedded under ther chamber, recoil lug bedded all around and action bedded to rear tang. if the front screw is tight, put your finger at the stock/bbl contact at the front of the forend, tighten the tang screw then slightly loosed, if the bbl moves more than 1-2/1000 the action is not flat in the stock from the recoil lug to the tang. fixit.

hope this helps.

Bob
 
Good morning Cheek,
Well I hate to say it but you have one of those horrible barrels that were made from crappy Chrome-Moly blanks, with hammer-forged rifling and mass chambered on the old, non-CNC machinery.

I too have been there. I’ve had several rifles over the years the couldn’t hit the broad side of a barn door. As my gunsmith says, “chromoly has memory like an elephant.” As the barrel warms up it moves back to its original shape before the barrel was drilled; major warpage. Just to let you know, I rebarreled a 1943, Turkish Mauser. I got it a Big-5 for $189.00. It now shoots ½ minuet groups.

I would first do everything that was suggested here. If you can get minuet-of deer accuracy (2” 5 shoot group at 100 yards from the bench ) then use this rifle for this hunting season.

BUT!!! Don’t get rid of the rifle. The action is likely fine. Just rebarrel the rifle with a new STAINLESS STEEL barrel. You can get a new barrel fitted (including lapped lugs and trued action) and chambered for about $600.00. You will shoot a 1” group right off the bat from a cold barrel. Trust me, you won’t regret rebarreling the rifle.

By the way, you can now rechamber the rifle for what ever short-action cartridge you want. :D
 
Cheek, lots of advice re bad barrels, my experience is cromoly is fine if well made, do not junk the bbl until you are sure of the bedding, loads, jumping not touching, crown, etc.

do not give up, soo quickly as to throw away a good bbl.

Bob
 
ok.. i took it to my smith. he said that the bedding was ok, his words " for the stock it's good ". so cant rule that out completly, but i think it is ok. he said same thing about the barrel, they are crap... i played with it agian today, while trying to find bullet on lands,( i know i will try to jump them but just trying to see where i could have messed up with my load) i took a candle and blackend the bullet, never tried this before so if i did it wrong someone tell me, sized a case and started bullet in case with seater die. when i chambered it, it had three rifling marks on it. just three. all i think at the bottom of the bullet. i tried this 3 times and got 3 marking 2 times and 2 marking 1 time.
so with that siad does this indicate the chamber may be that bad off center? and if some thats why my groups are like they are.
another question is if i send it back to remington, will they fix it or even look at it since it is not the factory stock and the action has been bedded.
 
No, that does not necessarily mean the chamber is off center. I think you would have to have a gunsmith do a run-out check of the barrel. But since you took the rifle to the gunsmith already and he has indicated the barrel or factory barrels are “crap”, I think enough has been said about your barrel.

I would suggest you call Remington and see what they have to say. For many reasons they may not honor the warranty of the rifle. However, Remington has gone through a lot of changes over the past 5 years. A friend of mine had a problem with a Weatherby shotgun some years back. He took the shotgun into a a factory authorized gunsmith. 6 weeks later the gunsmith called him back and said, “you can come pick up your new shotgun.”

Give us an update if you do call Remington.

Good luck to you,
glo
 
ok i called remington today >:( they told me the rifle only had a 2 year waranty on it, and because i am not the original ower there is basiclly no warranty at all.
i told them what i had done to the rifle, stock, bedding, tried factory loads, hand loads and scope. they told me that, that is what they would have suggested to me to try myself before i sent it to them for evaluation.
as of now, they only thing they could do for me is look at it and see if they can find anything wrong and then give me a price on repair, it will take 7 to 10 buisness days to look at it after they receive it. the trigger that i have adjusted will be set back to facory setting before they will ship it back to me and i will be charged for that adjustedment even though i do not want it adjusted.
i was told that this is a safety issue that all firearms that they look at, either repiared or not will not leave the factory with out a trigger set to factory specs. so if i send it to them they, take the trigger off of it first.
they will only test it in a stock that the rifle came with from the factory, they said stock was not a big deal.
so for what it is worth remington basiclly has no warrenty at all......

from passed expereince, ruger has no warrenty either, but when i called about a ruger rifle, i was told that at there was no printed warrenty because if there was they would have to follow it, ruger wants to handle every firearm on case by case. if it is new or 20 years old, if you send it back to them, and they find a problem form the factory, they will fix it or replace it, which ever i wanted.
savage and t/c has best customer servicd i have ever seen. when i contacted sav. about a rifle they insured me that there was not a problem with it but if i liked, they would replace item at no cost to me or refund my money.
when i contacted t/c on a stock, that had a crack in the buttstock, which i did myself ;D, they told me to send it to them and they would send me a new one at no cost. even after i told them i did damage and wanted to order one for it.
just dont understand remington, i was basiclly told, go $^% yourself.

in short, at this point i think trueing the action and bolt face and a new barrel, and never purchased another remington. thought about trying to trade or sell, but dont want to put a problem in someone elses hands, so with time lession are learned.
 
I know of a few people in my area, in the last few years, who have been bitten by Remington. Several of us decided to find someone else to toss our money at.

I had been thinking of buying a Marlin X bolt, but Remington recently completed a "consolidation" of Marlin into Remington. This was to make things better, or so they say. I am skeptical.

Might just by a Howa 1500 or a Savage as my next 308 purchase.

Have a good one,
Gary
 
my brother in law brought a howa last year i 234. shoots great to be factory. looks alot like the rem 700. i wonder if parts interchangable, triggers, stocks?
anyone know?
 
howa is a fine rifle however the scope bases are the only thing that is interchangeable with rem. . the howa is the same as weatherby's vangaurd with the exception of bolt shroud and some cosmetic changes.
P.M. sent
T.R.
 
ok finally heard back from remington.. i now have a new barrel. havent got the rifle back yet but i was told they rebarreled it for me at guess..... no cost. i have called multiple time and finally got ahold of some manager and, let him have it..
after about a week i got a call from them and was told that the barrel was going to be changed. when i ask what was wrong all i was told was the barrel had been changed and with remington core locks it was shooting less than 1moa.
they never said what was wrong, and either the guy didnt know, or want tell, but never the less i think it is fixed at no cost
dont get me wrong, but i paid good money for a rifle that would not shoot. i think customer care is VERY important. at this point i dont think rem has customer care, but they say the rifle is now fixed. guess we will see.
 

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