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Help figuring out my 10-10

brokeasajoke

Silver $$ Contributor
So apparently I'm an idiot I guess. I had a 10-10 tuned by Scott Parker. I cannot get this thing to be consistent from zero to check weight. Maybe some one could walk me through the setup process. I put beam on scale, pan on beam, then zero all settings and use the screw to align both marks. Check weight Scott sent me doesn't weigh what he has wrote on the pack and I find myself needing to realign the marks after. Maybe I'm not getting the beam in just the right spot. It weighs low compared to my gempro. I'm not saying either one is correct cause I have nothing else to confirm either. I don't use it much and use the gempro cause it's just frustrating. Maybe someone can help with what I'm doing wrong. Thanks.
 
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How do you know the weight he wrote on the package is wrong?
Seems like you need to either trust the scale or the test weight.
I trust my weights and don't even zero my scale. I put a combination of test weights, that come the closest I can get to the powder weight I want, set the slide weights on my scale to that weight and then zero the pointer.
If this is not the right way to do it, someone help me out. Mike
 
You zero it with nothing in the pan, and then set the scale for the weight of the check weight and put in the pan and see if the pointer is zeroed. Take particular care with the edges of the knives that the beam balances on when assembling and disassembling the scale. Keep the agate bearings clean. FYI that scale will never be fully utilized without a cheap webcam, or smart phone. The amount of beam movement that you have when dealing with very small differences is so slight that small differences in head position can become important. With the webcam, that "eye" is always in the same position eliminating parallax. You can also make a bracket to hold a phone so that you can look at the end of the beam and scale using the magnifier function. That does the same thing, with less magnification.
 
Friction is your enemy! Air movement around the scale will cause inconsistent readings. The base must be absolutely level. The pivots must be free of any foreign matter. I zero my scale and weigh stuff, i.e., bullets or powder kernels or the check weights. I also test with 10 kernels of H4350. I look for consistency.

With scale zeroed, I drop one kernel of H4350 on the pan, then another, until I have all ten in the pan all the while watching the beam and where it stops after each drop of a kernel. Then I do it again. Basically studying and learning how the scale beam reacts to each kernel.

My 10-10 beam moves from zero when I drop one kernel of H 4350 on the pan. I use a laptop and camera to see this movement. It's not much!

Again friction is your enemy! A minute amount of dust in the pivots will give inconsistent results. Good luck!
 
My check weight from Scott was off... threw me for a loop at first as well. Iirc the check weight (bullet) from Scott was 1 gr light.
Mr. Allen sums it up well.
 
That's just it boyd, after zeroing pan empty, the check weight don't align marks for setting. I'm talking like an 1/8" off. IIRC the check weight is 155.3 but that should be irrelevant as long as check weight is right.
 
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So, you set both the sliding weight and rolling poise (?) to zero, and with the pan on the scale and empty, you used the leveling adjustment to level the scale (make the marks on the scale frame and the end of the beam line up perfectly). Then you set the sliding weight to 150 grains and the rolling poise to 5.3, put the test weight in the pan and let the beam come to a stop and the beam line and the scale were not aligned. They were an eighth of an inch off?
 
Yes exactly boyd. I'm going to toy with it some this afternoon after I get off job #2 after job #1 lol. 3rd shift ugh. I'm going to check the dampening anf make sure nothing is rubbing and also try it on my concrete floor instead of wooden bench.
 
Never saw the 'balance the scale to level' part. Scale must be level and then you can start using check weights. (Sorry, just picked up on Mr Boyds last post)
 
Just a thought also, the auxiliary weight on the 10/10, used for extending the range from 500 - 1000 grns, has it's actual weight stamped on it. From memory, the 10/10 weight weighs 250 gns and the M5 weight weighs 260.9 gns.

Zero the scale as already said, then set your scale to 250 gns and use the extra weight as a check weight.
 
Try cleaning your beam knife edges and agate bearings with an evaporative solvent, then check your damper recess area carefully for any metal hairs. Scott would have done this during tuning, but it is always possible to have gotten some issues in these areas after it has left his hands. They are easy checks for things that can make a scale act goofy and should be eliminated right away.

Danny
 
So apparently I'm an idiot I guess. I had a 10-10 tuned by Scott Parker. I cannot get this thing to be consistent from zero to check weight. Maybe some one could walk me through the setup process. I put beam on scale, pan on beam, then zero all settings and use the screw to align both marks. Check weight Scott sent me doesn't weigh what he has wrote on the pack and I find myself needing to realign the marks after. Maybe I'm not getting the beam in just the right spot. It weighs low compared to my gempro. I'm not saying either one is correct cause I have nothing else to confirm either. I don't use it much and use the gempro cause it's just frustrating. Maybe someone can help with what I'm doing wrong. Thanks.
you got alot of good info here. As has been said get a level and level the frame of the scale as close as possible. Then set the sliding weight and poise to zero. the pointer should be pointing at zero. if it isnt it needs further work. if it is okay and youve checked all the other things noted in this thread get a known check weight and try it. if thats not it id contact S Parker and see wat he says.
 
So apparently I'm an idiot I guess. I had a 10-10 tuned by Scott Parker. I cannot get this thing to be consistent from zero to check weight. Maybe some one could walk me through the setup process. I put beam on scale, pan on beam, then zero all settings and use the screw to align both marks. Check weight Scott sent me doesn't weigh what he has wrote on the pack and I find myself needing to realign the marks after. Maybe I'm not getting the beam in just the right spot. It weighs low compared to my gempro. I'm not saying either one is correct cause I have nothing else to confirm either. I don't use it much and use the gempro cause it's just frustrating. Maybe someone can help with what I'm doing wrong. Thanks.

Please call me 661 364 1199.

Scott Parker
So apparently I'm an idiot I guess. I had a 10-10 tuned by Scott Parker. I cannot get this thing to be consistent from zero to check weight. Maybe some one could walk me through the setup process. I put beam on scale, pan on beam, then zero all settings and use the screw to align both marks. Check weight Scott sent me doesn't weigh what he has wrote on the pack and I find myself needing to realign the marks after. Maybe I'm not getting the beam in just the right spot. It weighs low compared to my gempro. I'm not saying either one is correct cause I have nothing else to confirm either. I don't use it much and use the gempro cause it's just frustrating. Maybe someone can help with what I'm doing wrong. Thanks.

Please call me 661 364 1199.
Thank you.

Scott Parker
 
Ok I think I figured out what I'm doing wrong. It is real easy for the knife edges to slide aginst the metal holding in the agate. I made sure to center beam away from them and it seem to weigh check weight correctly and go back to zero. Would just like to make clear I was never putting down scott or his work. I was sure it was my set up and I believe I've found it. Check weight does weigh correctly, I meant it wasn't weighing correctly on 10-10. 2 other scales confirmed that. Careful placement of beam knife edges is where I think I was going wrong.
 
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