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how to extend pointer on a beam scale?

wolfman

Silver $$ Contributor
I have a Scott Parker tuned beam scale that I have paired with a webcam and an Omega trickler. I use a RCBS chargemaster combo to dump a light charge, and then trickle up on the beam scale. I really like the setup, but after a bit, my eyes begin to get tired tryiong to line up the pointer on the beam, as there is a sizeable horizontal gap. I have seen videos where others have used a needle, or something else to extend the pointer on the beam. I would really like to do this, but I'm wondering if I need to worry about adding weight to the other end of the beam? Maybe I'm over thinking it, but I don't want to screw up a scale that works so well as is. I've sent Scott an email to see what he says, but thought I'd check the collected wisdom here too.
 
I have added a piece of a needle to the pointer of a scale and then just adjusted the balance weight in the pan holder. Just take the screw out of the middle of the pan holder and you will find other balance weight. Shaving a small piece of lead off of a fishing weight should work well, and you can trim it down to the orrect weight.
 
I have a Scott Parker tuned beam scale that I have paired with a webcam and an Omega trickler. I use a RCBS chargemaster combo to dump a light charge, and then trickle up on the beam scale. I really like the setup, but after a bit, my eyes begin to get tired tryiong to line up the pointer on the beam, as there is a sizeable horizontal gap. I have seen videos where others have used a needle, or something else to extend the pointer on the beam. I would really like to do this, but I'm wondering if I need to worry about adding weight to the other end of the beam? Maybe I'm over thinking it, but I don't want to screw up a scale that works so well as is. I've sent Scott an email to see what he says, but thought I'd check the collected wisdom here too.
I have added a pin to the fixed scale, not the moveable beam.
 
You should use something non magnetic otherwise it 'may' be attracted to the damping magnets and throw a wrench in the works. Maw(wife) makes what she calls jewelry, I call it sorry look'n fishing lures. :D In her mess of junk she has a roll of some sort of what appears to be made of a chrome plated plastic something or the other she strings beads together. I borrowed(?) a few inches, cut a 1/2" piece then attached it the the beam with Wellwood contact cement.
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To re-calibrate the pan support I flattened a piece of #8 lead shot, trimmed a sliver of it off at a time, placing in the pan each time until the scale agreed with my verified check weights. When I had it right I added it in with the other shot the support.

To help my old four eyes see it I use Boyd's trick, a magnifying glass. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014/04/tech-tip-use-mirror-and-magnifier-with-beam-scales/
 
I have an RCBS 304. I have it mounted at my eye level. Easier to read and no parallax.
 
Mounting at eye level was a big help for me and may eliminate the need for a pointer extension. But even if you need the pointer, eye level will help. I have been thinking about Boyd's use of the magnifying glass and I am considering trying that also. Great ideas all the way around.
 
forget eye level- The webcam hooked up to a laptop is great. Paralax is eliminated, and the larger picture makes it much easier to be precise. The problem I'm having is my particular scale has a sizable between the end of the pointer on the beam, and the fixed scale on the side of the scale. I don't have much problem for the first 50 or so rounds, but after that, the eyes start to get a bit tired and I stop trusting myself. Ordinarily, I would just walk away and come back later, but time commitments being what they are with a young family, I tend to be loading 200-300 rds last minute for a big match. I'm just trying to make the whole process as easy and fool proof as possible.
 

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