That is an option for the OP to consider.....but may be a bit overwhelming for a newby.My brass has 25 fireing on it and never have had a problem i anneal every 3 fireings Larry
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That is an option for the OP to consider.....but may be a bit overwhelming for a newby.My brass has 25 fireing on it and never have had a problem i anneal every 3 fireings Larry
If the Hornady LNL press is the one that uses those interrupted thread quick change inserts then I would not recommend it......it does not allow consistent shoulder bumping due to introduced slop in the system. (There are previous threads about this problem). I have several Rockchuckers and Redding Boss presses and much prefer Redding Boss presses. The Redding Boss presses allows you to mount the press to any 4-1/4" thick (3/4" plywood over 2x4 framing) benchtop without notching. The RC needs 3-1/2" max. top thickness for full handle throw. Also, I can remove the roll pin on the Boss so the ram returns downward after TDC eliminating press "cam over" which (IMHO is absolutely undesirable when attempting any consistency in sizing dimensions) causes undue wear on the press and produces non-repeatable results. The standard Boss works well for me because I use them to load at the range, however the Big Boss captures spent primers and a larger ram (adding more weight). I also would consider the Lee Classic Cast if money was an issue. The Coax is expensive, does not allow a means to tweak shoulder setback ( via die shims, or micro die -adjuster) which IMO is mandatory for accuracy work, and has small parts which tend to become lost when changing out the proprietary shell plates. The Coax's virtue is it allows the die to float allowing the case to center itself in the die.........which the same can be done on any single stage press by replacing the SH retaining clip with an o-ring.
It's true as handy as the Coax is to change dies I use it over others just for that reason let alone the others. I wouldn't get the LNL. I think a person should start with a single stage threaded press. You can load about anything with that and when you're ready to move up do it then. The Lee cast would be fine. Otherwise a Rock Chucker would be hard to beat for the $ though I don't know if they are made in US now. RCBS customer service is excellent from what I understand.I have Two on my bench and 6 in the shead
On my bench both are red one is a coax the other is Lee classic cast . The cast gets used very seldom . All my dies are set to be snapped in . Don't load much down to a couple hundred a week . Larry
SavageLarry--what do you have in the Shed?I have Two on my bench and 6 in the shead
On my bench both are red one is a coax the other is Lee classic cast . The cast gets used very seldom . All my dies are set to be snapped in . Don't load much down to a couple hundred a week . Larry
The question about re-adjustment when you bump shoulder is a good one. The answer is NO if you sue the Redding Competition shell holder. Those works very well and allow you to chance bump by 2 thousands. Keep the die fixed and just change shell holders.As I mentioned I am just getting into reloading so I have a question.
As you change die's is there any readjustment of the lock ring needed? For instance when you are bumping shoulders do you have to readjust the lock ring every time, or once it is set are you good to go for the most part?
The T7, Coax, and even the Dillon 550 all sound like great options. But with all of the positive comments about the Lee Cast it is hard for me to justify three times the cost for one of the others. But then again maybe I should just cough up the coin and buy once.
Except in the case where your chamber has minimal headspace and/or your die is on the long end of the acceptable SAAMI tolerance or your std. S/H is taller than spec.....then the comp. S/H's are useless after spending $45 vs. $15 for a set of shims.The question about re-adjustment when you bump shoulder is a good one. The answer is NO if you sue the Redding Competition shell holder. Those works very well and allow you to chance bump by 2 thousands. Keep the die fixed and just change shell holders.
Yep once I used a coax I dont wanna go back to screw in dies.-- better send me those presses in the shed for evaluation though just in case!I have Two on my bench and 6 in the shead
On my bench both are red one is a coax the other is Lee classic cast . The cast gets used very seldom . All my dies are set to be snapped in . Don't load much down to a couple hundred a week . Larry
+1! Good advice.I have a Redding T7, a RockChucker, Hornady Classic, Hornady LNL, and a Forster Co-Ax. If I was just starting out and could only have one press right now, I'd go with the RockChucker with plans to pick up a Co-Ax later.
Basically no tool can work in every possible situation, especially the unusual one. Does not mean they are not an excellent tools for a general recommendation...Except in the case where your chamber has minimal headspace and/or your die is on the long end of the acceptable SAAMI tolerance or your std. S/H is taller than spec.....then the comp. S/H's are useless after spending $45 vs. $15 for a set of shims.
It's hard to go wrong with a press. They aren't terribly important as long as they're straight, and the mid market stuff I've used are all plenty straight. They do last forever and aren't throw away cheap, so be happy with your choice.
I would not opt for the Forster unless you know why you want it. They're different enough to be in the "love it or hate it" category. The cast lees get good reviews but Lee in general is spotty on quality. The rockchucker is as close to a standard press as exists (I use one), but the others make them just as good.
One thing to note- you will not be using the press's priming function for long. They all suck compared to a hand or bench tool. So you can ignore that feature when choosing.
In my view, spending a lot of money on a press is just buying nice things for the sake of it. You can buy $500 coffee makers too, but the coffee comes out the same as the Mr Coffee from Walmart. Better to spend the money on the beans.

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