help bedding TIKKA 595/695

[CdnHotshot]

I've
purchased a used original TIKKA 695 Deluxe with walnut stock that has been rebarreled 257WBY
I havn't fired it yet and unsure of its accuracy potential.

Removing the stock, I see it has never been bedded.
Does anyone have experience, knowledge or link to best bedding procedure of the fore arm stock with that "L" shaped recoil lug.
The recoil lug is aluminum construction and should it be upgraded to steel ?
I have found minimal information while googling but noted a suggestion that the lug should be beeded into the wood stock.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I usually ruff the top of the lug and bottom of the action where the lug goes up with a dremel then jb weld it to the action. Just outline it with tape, and ruff it up where the lug sits. Dont worry about the aluminum lug it works fine. I used to roll pin them and jb weld but its not necessary. Ive never had an issue on 300wm and 338wm in the 695 done this way

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Another thing ive seen is the lug bedded into the stock permanently but thats a lot of trouble for no gain that i can see. Let us know how it turns out

 

[CdnHotshot]

Another thing ive seen is the lug bedded into the stock permanently but thats a lot of trouble for no gain that i can see. Let us know how it turns out

My thoughts are...the recoil lug needs to be secured to avoid any movement during the recoil process.
With your suggestion being an alternative to permamently bedding the lug into the walnut stock.
It's a question of where is the "L" shaped recoil lug going to be held more securely.
* The bottom of the action has a "metal studd" that fits into the hole of "L" shaped recoil lug...the fit is sloppy - not snugg at all.
I believe if we JB the recoil lug to the action...this process will kill that "sloppy" fit.
Your thoughts please ...

 

[Dusty Stevens]

My thoughts are...the recoil lug needs to be secured to avoid any movement during the recoil process.
With your suggestion being an alternative to permamently bedding the lug into the walnut stock.
It's a question of where is the "L" shaped recoil lug going to be held more securely.
* The bottom of the action has a "metal studd" that fits into the hole of "L" shaped recoil lug...the fit is sloppy - not snugg at all.
I believe if we JB the recoil lug to the action...this process will kill that "sloppy" fit.
Your thoughts please ...

Thats why i used to pin and jb weld them but realized jb weld on it only solved that issue

 

[watercam]

Alex Sitman at Master Class Stocks counter bored an aluminum pillar to accept the boss that formerly fit within the lug. Simply left the lug out of the equation. Worked very well for me at 1K. As is typical of me, I traded it off for another rifle and wish like hell I had it back!

 

[CdnHotshot]

Alex Sitman at Master Class Stocks counter bored an aluminum pillar to accept the boss that formerly fit within the lug. Simply left the lug out of the equation. Worked very well for me at 1K. As is typical of me, I traded it off for another rifle and wish like hell I had it back!

Appreciate your experience but the explanation/description is so brief that I am struggling to follow.
I think you've said, Alex modified the factory stud which fit into the factory lug, in such a way that it replaced the factory lug. That would be the utmost best thing to do. I wonder if he removed that factory stud and welded a permanent lug at that location.

 

[sean68]

I think watercam is saying you just remove the factory L shaped plate and make a large pillar with a counter bore that perfectly fits the size of the round lug on the bottom of the action. I have done several this way. I make them out of steel and epoxy them in like any other pillar.

 

[CdnHotshot]

I think watercam is saying you just remove the factory L shaped plate and make a large pillar with a counter bore that perfectly fits the size of the round lug on the bottom of the action. I have done several this way. I make them out of steel and epoxy them in like any other pillar.

Thanks for weighing-in as I really feel stupid rehashing your explanation.
This factory L-shaped aluminum plate is the Tikka 695 recoil lug.
Are you saying to replace this with a steel plate that would sit flat in the wooden channel with a hole to accomodate the rifle action round lug ? or make an L-shaped steel replacement ...
I understand the idea of bedding the replacement lug solidly into the wooden stock.
Currently the rifle's round lug shows some wiggle in the L-shaped recoil lug - not what I want to see.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Thanks for weighing-in as I really feel stupid rehashing your explanation.
This factory L-shaped aluminum plate is the Tikka 695 recoil lug.
Are you saying to replace this with a steel plate that would sit flat in the wooden channel with a hole to accomodate the rifle action round lug ? or make an L-shaped steel replacement ...
I understand the idea of bedding the replacement lug solidly into the wooden stock.
Currently the rifle's round lug shows some wiggle in the L-shaped recoil lug - not what I want to see.

What hes saying is bed a round pillar in the stock with a hole in it that the stub under the action goes into. No recoil lug

 

[sean68]

Dusty's explanation is probably simpler than mine. Imagine you want to pillar bed the rifle. Just make the pillar big enough to fit over the round lug on the action. Throw away the factory L shaped plate. I am not saying you need to do this, I was just trying to clarify an earlier post. I did this when re-stocking a 595/695 and wanted to pillar bed and I didn't feel the need to re-create the factory set up. I put one in a Shehane Tracker and another in a different stock for a High Power Silhouette rifle. I only remember doing it once as an attempt to improve accuracy on a 595 Continental and it didn't have any affect. That gun shot great with the original lug and the pillar lug.

 

[mikecockcroft]

https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/Rifle+bedding+tutorial.html
Has info for tikka
Nathan’s book also has chapter dedicated to bedding tikkas