Nervous to try Bedding a Tikka

[LVLAaron]

Just my two cents. Relieve the whole thing. Get the tape on the balance point. When you stick the action in the stock, it will balance and the viscosity of the glue will hold the action where you want it.

 

[Dimner]

Just my two cents. Relieve the whole thing. Get the tape on the balance point. When you stick the action in the stock, it will balance and the viscosity of the glue will hold the action where you want it.

I'll give it a try! Cant hurt any based on the results im seeing. That's why I'm using this stock to learn. I also have to think results are going to be alot better when I bed the wood stock.

I forgot to try a couple of tricks Al gave us from the the Panda/Robertson Bedding thread. I'm thinking there is a fair chance I messed up the pillar alignment on this test stock

I really appreciate you talking me through this.

 

[cptjack]

Are your pillars already epoxied in and the cavities filled? -Al

I upgraded ton wood stock drill25/64 hole and push in sleeves epoxy if you want ,I felt no need

 

[Dimner]

I found and really like the advice that AlNyhus shared. Find the balance point of the barreled action... that's where the tape goes. Action just happily rests in the mud until it dries.

So I'm about to bed my wooden stock... this is the stock where I really need this to work out right.

Once thing I realized as worked with the synthetic stock and then when i did the pillars in the wood stock. The tape balance point is somewhat hampered by the way the recoil lug is designed. Since the recoil lug has its own form-fitting slot in the stock, it fights/interferes with the balance point of the tape wrap. I'm torn between bedding it like it is, or opening up the slot and then using more bedding in that area.

 

[LVLAaron]

Never owned a tikka... but at first glance... I think I'd super glue the recoil "lug" onto the action... relieve the stock a bit, and bed it like normal.

 

[Dimner]

Never owned a tikka... but at first glance... I think I'd super glue the recoil "lug" onto the action... relieve the stock a bit, and bed it like normal.

I did super glue the lug both times. I think that's a super important step too

On the syn stock, I received the stock. But not the recoil lug slit. It ended up not balanced well and the barreled action kinda pivots at the point of the recoil lug when the front action screw is screwed in.

For the second stock (wood stock), I decided to do all as above but also relieve the recoil lug slot just a bit on all sides. Somewhere between a 1/16th and 32nd of an inch. This time when I mudded it all up and slid the action in place, I could already tell things were going better. The the tape wrapped barrel balance point was running the show and the mud was just there to be molded. I'm hopeful for the results tomorrow afternoon.

 

[AlNyhus]

Make sure and provide some clearance on the bottom of the lug. -Al

 

[AlNyhus]

Once thing I realized as worked with the synthetic stock and then when i did the pillars in the wood stock. The tape balance point is somewhat hampered by the way the recoil lug is designed. Since the recoil lug has its own form-fitting slot in the stock, it fights/interferes with the recoil the balance point of the tape wrap. I'm torn between bedding it like it is, or opening up the slot and then using more bedding in that area.

If you don't open up the lug mortise in the stock, Randy Robinett's advice on the recoil lug should be heeded. -Al

 

[Dimner]

If you don't open up the lug mortise in the stock, Randy Robinett's advice on the recoil lug should be heeded. -Al

Thanks Al, looks like that was my mistake with the syn stock. Only 4 hours left and I can see what new error I have made to learn from! I'm kidding of course... kinda. I always enjoy the journey and learning. The destination is fun, but then what am I going to putz around on?

Randy used jb weld for his recoil lug replacement. Do you think devcon/marine tex would hold up just as well? I only have very minor experience with JB weld.

 

[AlNyhus]

I'm not a Marine Tex user but I'm sure it would do a fine job.

 

[LVLAaron]

Thanks Al, looks like that was my mistake with the syn stock. Only 4 hours left and I can see what new error I have made to learn from! I'm kidding of course... kinda. I always enjoy the journey and learning. The destination is fun, but then what am I going to putz around on?

Randy used jb weld for his recoil lug replacement. Do you think devcon/marine tex would hold up just as well? I only have very minor experience with JB weld.

tick tock. lets see it

 

[Dimner]

Here it is. Much happier with the results on this one. I need to rotary out the middle cavity, which I will do tomorrow afte the synthetic stock is done with its 24 hour sitting. I was impatient for this one to cure, so the last 2 hours I busied myself with grinding out the bedding and the recoil lug on the synthetic stock.

When that was done it was time to crack open the wood stock. Came apart very easily. Everything looks good. I was so pleased I immediately mudded up the synthetic stock using the randy Robinette method. No recoil lug, just the mud making the recoil lug.

 

[Dimner]

Well... here's the near finished product. Just need to relieve the bolt knotch and safety inlet area.

Bad on me for the rotary tool runaway marks. Glad I don't do this for a living.




So here is what I learned and you too can mangle your way to a bedded tikka.

Tips for a tikka (not including all the normal bedding procedures)

Marine tex works just fine.
Wrap the balance point of the barreled action with tape so you are floating.
Releive the tang area just like the rest of the stock inlet. Really scuff up syn stocks.
Enlargen the recoil lug mortise. Don't forget this.
Plan to bed your recoil lug right into your bedding. Scuff up the lower half and sides of the lug so the mud takes hold.

Do the pillars first.
Make your pillar holes big. I made my 1/2 inch
Make sure to put a nylon washer between the pillars and the action at this step.
If you are using lumley arms pillars, you will need to shorten them some.
Put inserts in the pillars. Flanged nylon bushings work, but I couldn't source the right size locally. So I used two cut to length sections of a carbon fiber arrowI had. Basically anything that fits the ID of your pillars and the OD of your action screws.

Bedding the action.
Use more mud than you think you would need. I used 1oz of marine tex(half the small package)
When you wrap your action with tape after mudding. Do not wrap tight. Just taught.


Thanks everyone who helped!

 

[AlNyhus]

If you're using a Dremel, get the flexible shaft kit. It turns an instrument of destruction into a tool with some precision. -Al

 

[Dimner]

If you're using a Dremel, get the flexible shaft kit. It turns an instrument of destruction into a tool with some precision. -Al

Oh I'm using a fordom with a foot pedal. A 70s or 80s vintage that my great grandfather used when goldsmithing. Yes, I'm just that horrible with the tool!

 

[Judd]

You’re learning and we all started somewhere. It looks as good as my first one haha.

I still use a dremel or take it to my buddy’s to mill. But one thing I learned with the dremel is rough it in and finish with a file and the results are much better.

 

[Dimner]

Here is the tikka hunter stock cleaned up. Below that is a Richards micro fit stock I bedded. The gleam is arrow wood finish that I need to clean out. Both were done using marine tex and Lumley arms recoil lugs.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Looks ok. What I have learned (the hard way) is to spend lots of time masking off everything, and I mean the entire stock. Every last inch except inside the inletting. Once the epoxy is flying it gets everywhere. I use paper or grocery bags to cover the large areas of the butt. Next important thing is remove lots of material. You want the epoxy a min of 1\8 thick. You can drill some deeper holes at angles to make a mechanical lock, especially on plastic. Take lots of time using plumbers putty to fill voids and make dams. Block off the bolt handle area and dont relieve it there. That area is a pain and isn't necessary. Cleanup with the sanding drum thingy on the dremel is the key to a professional looking end product. Go slow and steady. Oh yeah, soon as you tighten up the action first use popsicle sticks to get the excess epoxy then wipe it with alcohol. Come back often cuz it may keep oozing out. This step gets that clean line at the top.