Really? Are all the reloading manuals put out by specific bullet making companies? I guess I didn't know Lyman made bullets. As a beginner, I truly don't know which bullets I'd purchase. I shoot lots of brands of pistol ammo and typically don't know what bullets are used, unless it's a brand like Hornady. Can anyone tell me their favorite for FMJ pistol ammo?
Help A New Guy Get Started?
- Thread starter XrayDoc88
- Start date
rwj
Gold $$ Contributor
Montana Gold... I use their CMJs to eliminate having to contact lead...
You can get one by Seville 4' x2' by 36" H approx , essentially 2x as big, for $200 or a bit over. At Home Depot or on Amazon. I have one and glad I do. You need all the counter top you can get. lg
The more I think about this new hobby, the more questions I have. I currently store all my factory ammo in retail boxes inside of .50 cal steel ammo cans. What do people like to do with their reloaded ammo? Just dump it loose in ammo cans, put it in bags, reuse factory boxes, etc.? There must be an elegant way of storing your hard work. Thanks.
MTM cases.
I also reuse factory boxes, just be sure to label them with all load info.
rwj
Gold $$ Contributor
Wish I had that problem... my guns are forever hungry and eat everything I can load immediately
J F Johannes
AKA "RatRifle"
Xray, Youtube can be your friend. Johnny's Reloading Bench channel is not too bad and lots and lots of videos and reviews of equipment, components and products. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQ7ZytKrmCQnRp9LXXxinJQ
Jim
Jim
I started 30+ years ago with a single stage RCBS RockChucker Supreme and it's as good as the day I bought it , I changed from dry tumbling to wet with SS Pins , You need a universal deprimer die so you can pop the primers first without putting them through your sizing die , brass comes out looking brand new inside and out . LemiShine is used if you have hard water in your area , I use Sun liquid detergent instead of the Dawn liquid detergent , wife said it works better the Dawn and she is right . Started with the LemiShine as the instructions stated but I don't use it anymore . I also use the ChargeMaster 1500 and double check my rifle loads with the GemPro250 for benchrest shooting 308 . I'm not reloading large volume of reloads so the single serves me well 650 rifle & 2000 45acp per year .. It's a great hobby and you will never stop trying new things , you'll see . Hope I Helped in some way.
Chris
Chris
1st. Get a reloading manual. They all cover the basics of reloading and safety. Read it. Say you get the Hornady manual. It has loads for Hornady bullets and that data should not be used for another manufacturers bullets due to different construction like jacket thickness, bearing surface length, core alloy content etc.
2nd. Get a single stage press to start with. I got a Rockchucker so 40(?) years back to start with. Still on my bench and still used to load all of my match rilfe rounds and all of my small batch (uncommon chamberings or seldom used) rifle ammo. Start with a single chambering and when you have that down pat expand on what you load..
3rd.. A good powder thrower, scale and powder trickler will get you started. Ball powders throw easiest/most accurately with a consistent throwing action. Stick powders get more difficult with coarseness/size of the grain, hence the need for the trickler.
4th. As you get more advanced. Most useful thing on my bench. An RCBS Chargemaster. This is set up with a power conditioner on a separate table so as not to shake it while using the press. It took some time to figure out how to get best performance out of it, it is finicky, but time and aggravation wise it makes loading a hundred rounds of match ammo way more pleasant.
5th. Progressive presses. The only one I'll recommend is the Dillon. Been running a 650 since 1993 with zero failures primarily for pistol ammo. With fine grain powders, primarily ball the Dillon powder thrower works great. I spent some time polishing the bottom funnel area of the thrower just because just in case although it worked fine out of the box. Coarse stick powders like 4064 and the like not so much. But you can get the funnel die to pour weighed charges in lieu of the powder thrower. The interchangeable tool heads allow me to use just aa decapping die and then tumble the brass, then switch heads and start loading. Pistol ammo at 500-600 rounds an hour without pushing things. Last die for pistol is the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die which sizes/crimps the loaded round, the Lee works best adjusted properly. Why a Dillon? The year I bought it, 9 out of the top ten pistol shooters in the US loaded on a Dillon, the 10th used factory ammo (sponsored).
6th. All the little odds and ends for more advanced rifle ammo loading . For match rifle ammo the Wilson case trimmer with stand and micrometer adjustment. Sinclair carbide primer pocket cleaners which are used with a battery powered drill. Wilson case mouth chamfering tool. A quality calipers, I use Mitutoyo. Redding competition micrometer seating die for match ammo. Hornady chamber gauge and cartridge comparators, hence the need for a quality caliper.
7th. Never load ammo if anything causes your attention to wander. Stop and either regroup or quit for the day. Never have any powder but the correctly identified powder on you bench. Store all other powder away from the bench, as in a cabinet with doors you have to turn away from the bench and walk to. Store primers separately from powder. If you have children lock it up.
2nd. Get a single stage press to start with. I got a Rockchucker so 40(?) years back to start with. Still on my bench and still used to load all of my match rilfe rounds and all of my small batch (uncommon chamberings or seldom used) rifle ammo. Start with a single chambering and when you have that down pat expand on what you load..
3rd.. A good powder thrower, scale and powder trickler will get you started. Ball powders throw easiest/most accurately with a consistent throwing action. Stick powders get more difficult with coarseness/size of the grain, hence the need for the trickler.
4th. As you get more advanced. Most useful thing on my bench. An RCBS Chargemaster. This is set up with a power conditioner on a separate table so as not to shake it while using the press. It took some time to figure out how to get best performance out of it, it is finicky, but time and aggravation wise it makes loading a hundred rounds of match ammo way more pleasant.
5th. Progressive presses. The only one I'll recommend is the Dillon. Been running a 650 since 1993 with zero failures primarily for pistol ammo. With fine grain powders, primarily ball the Dillon powder thrower works great. I spent some time polishing the bottom funnel area of the thrower just because just in case although it worked fine out of the box. Coarse stick powders like 4064 and the like not so much. But you can get the funnel die to pour weighed charges in lieu of the powder thrower. The interchangeable tool heads allow me to use just aa decapping die and then tumble the brass, then switch heads and start loading. Pistol ammo at 500-600 rounds an hour without pushing things. Last die for pistol is the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die which sizes/crimps the loaded round, the Lee works best adjusted properly. Why a Dillon? The year I bought it, 9 out of the top ten pistol shooters in the US loaded on a Dillon, the 10th used factory ammo (sponsored).
6th. All the little odds and ends for more advanced rifle ammo loading . For match rifle ammo the Wilson case trimmer with stand and micrometer adjustment. Sinclair carbide primer pocket cleaners which are used with a battery powered drill. Wilson case mouth chamfering tool. A quality calipers, I use Mitutoyo. Redding competition micrometer seating die for match ammo. Hornady chamber gauge and cartridge comparators, hence the need for a quality caliper.
7th. Never load ammo if anything causes your attention to wander. Stop and either regroup or quit for the day. Never have any powder but the correctly identified powder on you bench. Store all other powder away from the bench, as in a cabinet with doors you have to turn away from the bench and walk to. Store primers separately from powder. If you have children lock it up.
Thank you RatRifle, cw308 and Rust! Very helpful information. I'm realy getting excited about this as I gradually purchase my equipment. Do you have any more recommendations about brand of pistol bullets or powder to use? I plan on starting with 147 grain 9mm and then probably will add 180 grain 40 S&W. These will be target practice rounds. I'd like to balance quality with price.
J F Johannes
AKA "RatRifle"
I like Speer bullets for handgun rounds. I use the flat nose bullets like found with their Lawman series for practice rounds and gold dots for personal defense. So I would purchase the Speer manual, that would be good start. Actually I can send you a Speer manual, no charge, just pm me and it’s yours.
Jim
I wrote this in another post, but i would like to say this again for you.
Quote
I grew up around people that were target shooters and re-loaders,observing and listening to these people was a great plus for me when I took on the re-loading challenge. i would think if you did some research in your area, I would think you could find a shooter that would be more than happy for you to observe and listen. It will be a definite asset for you starting out. observing and asking questions of a knowledgeable re-loader can be priceless, and save a lot of headaches,time and money, good luck.
Now having said this, it may not be feasible, for what ever reason for you to accomplish this. But i kindheartedly think it would give you better knowledge and confidence.
Quote
I grew up around people that were target shooters and re-loaders,observing and listening to these people was a great plus for me when I took on the re-loading challenge. i would think if you did some research in your area, I would think you could find a shooter that would be more than happy for you to observe and listen. It will be a definite asset for you starting out. observing and asking questions of a knowledgeable re-loader can be priceless, and save a lot of headaches,time and money, good luck.
Now having said this, it may not be feasible, for what ever reason for you to accomplish this. But i kindheartedly think it would give you better knowledge and confidence.
I order from PrecisionDelta good bullets at good prices . I would start with jacketed bullets at first , easier to reload . I'm shooting 45acp , in your load books you will find powders for the bullet weights your going to shoot. When starting out in reloading fine a bullet that has less feeding problems like roundnose , some bullets are alittle iffy even for seasoned reloaders . On autos I usually start midrange on the listed charges , you want it strong enough to work the slide , 5 rounds with each and work up or down on the charge to see how your pistol functions . Try to stay away from full loads at first . Have fun and take your time , double check everything . Let us know how the first shot you made feels . Its a Great Sport .
I load a fair amount of .40, 180 gr semi-wadcutters. I also load plated (Berry's) and coated (SNS) bullets which are a little more expensive but eliminate cleaning lead out of the barrel. I'll never run out of 180 gr semi wadcutters, the club did a bulk buy direct from a manufacturer and we ordered literally tons at a huge discount. Keep your eyes open for that sort of deal.
I do load 9mm bullets, but 124 gr jacketed in a .38 super at a velocity lead or plated bullets don't handle.
For practice loads I'd say use 165s in .40 and 124 in 9mm. Less recoil and the price may be slightly better. Unless you are loading to make a specific power factor for USPSA or other competition.
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