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Help A New Guy Get Started?

1. This is a bit disingenuous - but I'll say it anyway: Although I have a single stage press and have anti-interest in going to a press that is more complex/higher volume, it seems to me starting with a single stage is the way to go. Use a simple system to get the basics and concepts internalized - and develop muscle/brain memory for the reloading process. I think it's similar to how I (and I assume many others) was taught to shoot: The first gun my dad handed me was a single shot .22. Simple gun and simple cartridge - so I could learn the basics of handling, safety, body position, sight picture, trigger control, etc. After a while then he handed me a semi-auto.

2. I think the "How much is your time worth?" (or it's variant - "One only makes <some small amount of money> per hour.") is only a valid point *if* you actually would be doing something else with that reloading time where you ARE making money. Although I'm retired now, even when I was working, I was never "choosing not to work" when I was reloading. I was always off work - and making the choice between watching a movie, or mowing the lawn, or some other project around the house. In none of those scenarios was I calculating how much my time was worth. In my opinion the primary driver for reloading needs to be overall interest and fun. I think that is how we stay focused on really understanding it - because it's fun. I consider any cost savings I get a serendipitous side benefit. And given we do get some cost savings that tends to get discussed. I'm positive if 9mm, for example, ever becomes cheaper to buy than reload, I'd still reload it......because I find it fun and I end up with ammo I have much more confidence in.....because I know it performs well in my guns.

3. I have a very small space for reloading. I use a Black & Decker Workmate (<$100) and it works GREAT. More than solid enough for what I need.
 
I hane an old 1920s school desk with a solid plywood top. If the sizing gets too hard, I put my foot on the inverted "T" leg to hold it down.

Before retiring, I could come home and bite nails in half. I could go into my reloading closet, I share it with the water heater, turn on the radio, and reload a hundred rounds and come out a mellow fellow. Reloading, always on a single stage Pacific press, is relaxing to me, no pressure to dump 500 rds for the weekend meet, in fact, some times I like reloading more than shooting.
 
Pistol I dry tumble rifle steel whool RCBS rock chucker to size RCBS partner to seat another partner with decaping die for all riflle
Have 2 Dillon square deals 9 mm 45acp
If did it all over it would be a Dillon 550 for the pistol and bulk 223
 
I’ll be the “lone wolf” in this thread and start by stating that I agree that learning each operation is important. However, this can be accomplished on a progressive by either deactivating shell plate indexing and/or using only one station/die at a time. The reverse is not true...
 
Start with a decent reloading book and your favorite rifle. A simple single stage press is the way to go.
1- RCBS press will last a life time.
2- Hand tools trump power tools
3- KISS
4- Don’t buy cheap dies

5-You’d be surprised how little you really need.

6- IMO-If Wilson doesn’t make you probably don’t need it!

7- there aren’t any stupid questions-ASK first
 

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Start with a decent reloading book and your favorite rifle. A simple single stage press is the way to go.
1- RCBS press will last a life time.
2- Hand tools trump power tools
3- KISS
4- Don’t buy cheap dies

5-You’d be surprised how little you really need.

6- IMO-If Wilson doesn’t make you probably don’t need it!

7- there aren’t any stupid questions-ASK first

There are stupid questions, but if you ask them first they dont have to cost you any money....
 
I think I'd like to deprime and then tumble brass before resizing. Do you need a die and press to deprime or do they make a hand held device that would work on both pistol and rifle cartridges? (AKA: Possibly first dumb question. :))
 
I think I'd like to deprime and then tumble brass before resizing. Do you need a die and press to deprime or do they make a hand held device that would work on both pistol and rifle cartridges? (AKA: Possibly first dumb question. :))

Not dumb at all.

You need to look at Wilson’s primer punch and case base products.

https://lewilson.com/punch-and-base-sets/

Get a base to support your cartridge, proper length and diameter punch to push primers out of pockets (while case rests on appropriate base) assisted by light hammer taps.

I’ve used them for years, keeps that abrasive primer residue away from my press rams, easy to collect spent primer cups & anvils for recycling.

Another advantage is giving you an early opportunity to evaluate primer pocket stretch; the number of hammer taps needed to push fired primers out - and the force behind each tap - tells you whether pockets are expanding. Cases whose primers fall out w/OUT the hammer get culled for recycling before anything more gets done to ‘em that’s a waste of your time and energy.
 
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Setting up a reloading press in an apartment/closet can be a challenge. I like the "workmate" idea. I Never tried that. A hundred years ago. I welded up a 3 legged stool to support my old RCBS jr. single stage press. On the bottom between the back legs I had welded a support plate for my foot: that kept things pretty steady. It only has to have the top plate about 30" above the floor. The 3 angle iron legs were about 14" apart at the base. I suppose you could build something from wood as well. If you really want to do this you can. I'm sorry, I gave that stand away. but feel free to ask any questions. good luck, mike in ct
 
Uniquetek sells a single stage conversion for their presses.
http://uniquetek.com/product/T1553
I have not used it but I understand the principle. I load almost all ammo on my progressive but I learned on a single stage and i reccomend people do the same. There are a lot of things going on with a progressive and when you cook off a tube full of primers you wont forget it.
That being said, the dillon 650 is what is load match ammo on for highpower across the course and long range.
For pistol I do it all in one process but for rifle I use a sizing, decap etc toolhead. I then clean and tumble the brass and load, drop powder, crimp etc. For LR I measure powder and slip the cases into the shell holder and load seat bullets after.
If you do go the progressive route learn where all the adjustments are that can be made. Get the powder safety die. Once you understand how all the functions operate you're good to go. It's still easier to learn on the single stage though. Good luck and have fun
 
Are those only available for rifle cartridges? I don't see any pistol calibers listed.

Pistol cartridges can use same base+die combo as for rifle cases. Just pick a base for your case head dia., punch for flash hole dia. (most pistol cases use 0.080”, it’s the PPC/6BR/308Palma rifle cases need 0.060” to fit) and have at it.

I use my 0.475” base (308, 30-06, 45ACP, etc.) for pretty much everything. It’s the punch pin dia. you need to pay attention to if you shoot anything with the smaller flash hole. The rifle case-length punches make handling pistol cases easy enough with the added length. Rifle cases sometimes take a bit of fussing with to get punch pin into flash hole efficiently.
 
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My Dies are heat treated and case harden beyond a grade 8 the brass will scratch well before any die will.
I wipe off any dirt lube and resize
Occasionally clean the Dies with carb cleaner or wd40
 

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