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hBN users, barrel slurry?

can some one help me with the math
16 oz is one pound.
$12.50 per ounce
16 times $12.50 is
bingo,,,
$200 per pound..
you are so kind to your poor customers....
who could buy at a mere $65/lb or ripped off at $100/lb
 
what mr jrs seems to miss every time are these three words:

solutions, mixtures, and colloids.

solution : A solution is a homogeneous mixture of two or more substances. A solution may exist in any phase.

mixture:two or more substances which have been combined such that each substance retains its own chemical identity.

colloids :A type of homogeneous mixture in which the dispersed particles do not settle out.

so what you have is a mixture..and why one must mix ever time prior to use.
 
only by use and listening to those that have.

i get a ton of velocity out of my 300 win mag /208 amax/hbn....
it is a great bbl, but i BELIEVE some of it is the hbn..

rwh said:
How do we know that this will be effective as a lubricant?
 
JRS said:
You could add a gallon of alcohol to 10 pounds of hBN. It wouldn't matter. It is INSOLUBLE.


Ever hear of milk paint or whitewash? Same idea. The alcohol serves as a vehicle to distribute the suspended solids (in this case, hBN instead of lead oxide or titanium oxide in paint) evenly over the surface and, I suspect, into the pores / cracks in the metal better than a dry wipe with hBN would do. When the alcohol dries, it leaves behind a very thin, very evenly distributed "coating" of particulate hBN. I've seen this where some of the alcohol/hBN suspension dripped off the patch onto my black plastic bore guide. After the alcohol dried, it looked like thin whitewash or milk paint.


You don't necessarily need the pigment/hBN to be soluble in the solvent; all the solvent (alcohol) needs to do is serve as a vehicle to carry the hBN (or pigment particles in the case of whitewash or milk paint) and deposit it evenly on the surface. Lead oxide and titanium oxide are not soluble in house paint, either. They are suspended in a colloidal suspension or emulsion.


Unlike many paints, which use oil or latex or alkyd or acrylic or epoxy or whatever as a binder to hold the pigment onto the surface and resist weathering, in the case of alcohol/hBN, there is no binder, and the hBN will presumably fall off the surface rather quickly after the alcohol dries. (It probably stays in the pores a little better, though.) I suspect this is why they say to fire the gun not long after coating it with the alchohol/hBN suspension.


The high temperature/pressure/velocity of the hot gas, upon firing, very likely drives hBN even deeper into pores/fissures in the bore of the barrel, and this is likely why cleaning barrels after hBN treatment is reportedly faster and easier than on non-hBN treated barrels. The hBN acts, I suspect, like a non-stick / slippery coating in the microscopic pores and fissures the barrel, just like Teflon on a frying pan – I suspect it fills the pores before carbon/powder fouling/copper can fill the pores. So fouling in effect "lies on the surface" of the hBN in the pores, the same way that a frying egg lies on the surface of the hot bacon grease in a pan.
 
Busdriver said:
Schumi,

I recently bought a "kit" for making a barrel slurry, it calls for 1 teaspoon of HBN per 16 oz of alcohol. It does say to use 99% pure isopropyl alcohol for the slurry.

I have only pushed HBN through a barrel one time, so I don't have the experience to tell you whether that concentration is correct.

I just found the same ratio on bulletcoatings.com in there barrel prep page. Wish I would have found it earlier. That's where I purchased the hBN from. Thanks for the help.
 
I don't think a lot of us are using it for velocity, there's a school of thought to never fire a round down a perfectly clean barrel as it can cause harm. A lot of old guys used to use a drop of lock ease after cleaning, I was shown this by a barrel maker, one with a pretty good track record. Some would use a drop or 2 of TM or Butches on a patch wrapped around a jag after cleaning between relays, which worked but was though not a good solution if the barrel was going to sit for a while before shooting it again.

That's where the HBN comes in, clean your barrel at home, apply the slurry and the inside of your barrel has the slight coating and will stay there til you shoot it again. Will you get extra velocity, no it should be slower on the first shot, though some have reported that they are the same as a fouled barrel, ymmv. The coating is gone after the first shot, yes, it's not meant to stay, merely a protectant for that first shot.

If folks want to continue to rant and act like an idiot, well so be it, though in the not to distant past we used to call it making an ass out of yourselves, now everyone just calls it freedom and pours it on.
 
mshelton said:
If folks want to continue to rant and act like an idiot, well so be it, though in the not to distant past we used to call it making an *** out of yourselves, now everyone just calls it freedom and pours it on.
Very well said. And I agree with your accessment that it is to protect for the first shot.
 

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