I've used LEE hand primers (round tray) , an RCBS universal hand primer, a LEE bench mounted auto prime mounted on a small piece of scrap wood and C clamped to the bench, and the LEE Ram prime. All function, get the job done for my purposes (varmints, not comps). I use the ram primer tool more for load development and the LEE bench primer when loading up for a varmint shoot.
Hand primer or bench primer
- Thread starter Fern
- Start date
That's for sure.
I thought about trying that.
I have and use for years the LEE Auto Prime II hand priming tool and it is probably as good or a bit better than what is currently available in hand priming tools with trays.
I also prime on the Dillon 550 press.
I was shopping Midway and the RCBS Bench Mounted priming tool was on sale, so I bought it. I like it. This priming tool will insert primers that refuse to seat. I traded some shotgun primers for some older CCI large pistol primers and some of them do not want to seat, this priming tool seats them, well most of them anyway. I mount mine using medium c-clamps as I do not have room on my bench with two 550 presses and a Redding T-7
Hoot
Silver $$ Contributor
I have bench priming capabilities built into my Classic Cast, Rock Chucker and Forster Coaxial presses but ever since I began reloading about 40 years ago, I always used the Lee Auto Prime and just learned how to interpret its "slushy" feel at the end of the stroke. Lately, after hanging around here, I became more informed and for the last couple of years, I've been very happy with the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Perfect Seat Tool. Its depth is easily adjustable to not only fully seat a primer but to also feel that small crush bump quite easily. The depth adjustment has very positive detent clicks as well as an imprinted numerical representations on it. I'm not sure why this tool has not gotten more positive press (no pun intended) 
here.
Hoot
here.Hoot
X2 on the FA hand primer.I have bench priming capabilities built into my Classic Cast, Rock Chucker and Forster Coaxial presses but ever since I began reloading about 40 years ago, I always used the Lee Auto Prime and just learned how to interpret its "slushy" feel at the end of the stroke. Lately, after hanging around here, I became more informed and for the last couple of years, I've been very happy with the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Perfect Seat Tool. Its depth is easily adjustable to not only fully seat a primer but to also feel that small crush bump quite easily. The depth adjustment has very positive detent clicks as well as an imprinted numerical representations on it. I'm not sure why this tool has not gotten more positive press (no pun intended)
Hoot
I don't use a lot of Lee stuff, but the two things I swear by are the Lee Factory Crimp die and the Lee Safety Prime system.
I keep an old janky Lee press around for the sole purpose of using the priming system. So the Lee press basically serves decapping and priming duties. Haven't found a priming tool I like better.
I keep an old janky Lee press around for the sole purpose of using the priming system. So the Lee press basically serves decapping and priming duties. Haven't found a priming tool I like better.
There are places for hand primers AND bench AND press mounted primers.
Some of one or two or three options.
I use a hand primer for bulk reloading that is not be loaded on a Dillon progressive.
Have recently employed the RCBS bench mounted priming system (with strips) recently. Mounted the base on a 5x6" piece of hardwood and bolt to my loading desk when needed. Remove C clamp and store when not in use.
Some of one or two or three options.
I use a hand primer for bulk reloading that is not be loaded on a Dillon progressive.
Have recently employed the RCBS bench mounted priming system (with strips) recently. Mounted the base on a 5x6" piece of hardwood and bolt to my loading desk when needed. Remove C clamp and store when not in use.
One Eye Pete
Gold $$ Contributor
I have both the Frankford Arsenal hand primer and the RCBS bench mounted. I modified the RCBS so I could adjust the primer seating depth, similar to the Darrel Holland upgrade for the RCBS. By far I prefer the RCBS bench mount. I feel that its easier to use and is definitely easier on my hands. Recently I purchased a LEE ACP bench mounted priming press. While the Lee is far from perfect I found it to be the best for accurate repeatable primer depth. The big difference is that it indexes off the case head rather than the groove. I found out about it through an F-Class John YouTube video (thanks John!!!)
He also has a video to modify it for adjustable seating depth.
It takes some effort to get this thing working, I even added a RCBS primer tray, but once you get it right it's as easy and accurate as anything out there. NOTE I do not auto feed large rifle cases with this thing, for me it works best feeding them by hand.
Last I checked on the LEE website they had an improved version the deluxe APP priming press. Maybe they corrected some of the feeding issues with the ACP.
.
Last I checked on the LEE website they had an improved version the deluxe APP priming press. Maybe they corrected some of the feeding issues with the ACP.
.
ronemus
Gold $$ Contributor
I seat by feel and the Sinclair handheld is the best, but it's way too slow for most purposes. I modified my RCBS handheld APS strip primer by installing a much lighter return spring; that makes the feel nearly as good as the Sinclair, but is much faster, and the strip loading press lets me use the primer of my choice. I seldom use the Sinclair now. Unfortunately, the handheld RCBS is out of production but is of recent enough vintage that the appear in the classifieds occasionally.
I have to second this. I have Lee hand primer, RCBS and then the FA hand primer. None of these would give consistent results on My Lapua 223 brass using CCI 450's and recently when trying the GINEX primers. All of my pockets are quite tight and that combined with what I believe is differences in rim thickness always resulted in rather significant seating depths. I had always wondered why there was not an option the indexed off the case base and not the rim. When I saw the same video, I said what the heck, give it a try. It is absolutely accurate and repeatable, and very easy on the hands with the stiff seating primers.
Like all LEE priming devices, it takes a bit of fiddling and attention, but to me that is a small price to pay for the return.
I do not use the auto feed on priming (but do on the de-priming function), and do a "double cycle" where I prime one and skip a case on the following stroke to visually confirm that the primer is in place before placing the second case on the feeder. If it is off a little bit a little tap on the feeder moves it in place and then it is good to go. Even doing this it is stupid fast and easy as compared to hand priming.
The little spring on the feeder is a problem, and I had to glue it on. Contacted LEE and was sent the new one, but have not tried it yet as the glue seem to be working fine.
Now all that said, I think F Class John's modification for adjusting the seating depth might be worth looking into, and maybe a factory mod by LEE, as I'm going to venture a guess that the factory tolerances are not 100%. My press seats at 0.005, and not the 0.003 that John's does, so I'm guessing there is enough variance in the system between the ram, platen and the seating stem that causes this difference. So out of the box you may not get the exact same results as either John or me, but it will be consistent.
Someone with a little machining skills could easily make an after market version of the stem system with a micrometer option and this would be a killer system. If anyone wants to take that on, put me on the list to try it out.
One Eye Pete
Gold $$ Contributor
F-Class John’s modification for adjusting the seating depth for the Lee ACP press works well. I have used it successfull.
divingin
Gold $$ Contributor
I used to get hand cramps from using the Hornady pick-up tubes. Went to using the Dillon tubes; much easier on the hands. I don't remember all that well, but I think the RCBS tubes are similar to the Hornady ones.
I will say that (IMO) the Dillon primer flip tray, while expensive, is much better than most of the other ones out there. It could use sharper grooving, but it works well nonetheless.
I have used the hand-operated seaters and I like the RCBS bench mounted Automatic Priming Tool the best. Hand doesn't get tired. I'm not into "adjusting" the seating depth of primers. Seat them until they bottom out in the primer pocket. Never had a misfire. Every primer manufacturer recommends seating their primers by having them bottom out. Never heard of any benefit when someone uses an adjustable primer seater.
Never done it either for exact depth, but there seems to be some interest in that from some of the "top notch" guys, so thought I would mention it. But what I do know is that some "feel" like they are bottomed out and are actually still proud of the case, AKA CCI450 and the GINEX I tried. My best guess is that they are so stiff seating that I personally lose all finesse with a hand primer.
I don't understand why anything but having the primer seated so the cup is bottomed out would be a benefit. Primers aren't meant to be a crush fit. And if they were, how much crush? Has anyone read in any reloading manual how much crush is to be applied to a primer? I've never seen it. If a primer is not seated completely then some of the energy from the firing pin would be used to "complete the seating process" and there might not be enough energy left to set of the primer.
Find a good primer seater, hand squeeze or the lever actuated type (RCBS), and seat until the primer bottoms out. Done. That's it. Then spend time learning how to read the wind.
Find a good primer seater, hand squeeze or the lever actuated type (RCBS), and seat until the primer bottoms out. Done. That's it. Then spend time learning how to read the wind.
RegionRat
Gold $$ Contributor
Well, ask and you shall receive.... or at least a snippet sample of a few...
(I have no idea why the OEM's are not more open and direct with their primer usage advice. Before all the name changes, mergers and acquisitions, bankruptcy, etc., there was a time when they were. I digress.)
This is from a technical paper I was given when I was very young just before I was sent off to go visit the factories.
It was by McDonnel Douglass Corp and called - Percussion Primers, Design Requirements
The snips I am showing show the definition of what we are calling crush and they called Primer Reconsolidation.
Each further snip was from an example by Olin, Remington, or NOSIH, and shows their recommended crush. It ranges from 0.002" to 0.006" depending on the specific primer.
So, best to "touch" the bottom, and then go in a few more thousandths. YMMV
And here are a few snips of some manufacturer's recommended values.
Olin.
NOSIH
Remington
I'm not a lee fan but I like the Lee Bench prime
The anvil is "reseated" when the cup bottoms out in the pocket. They are designed that way. And when it is done that way the primer is a few thousandths below the base of the case.
What I'm saying is that there is no reason to crush a primer and there is a distinct possibility that a primer will not go off if it is not fully seated. You don't need to spend money on a seating tool where you can adjust the seating of the primer.
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