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Gunsmith lathe

Looking for a top of the line gear head lathe. Want to do barrels in the headstock. Dont want anything made in China. Been using a 19-4 Summit, but its time for a dedicated machine. Any info would be helpfull.
 
Guys i havent seen or used one of the Big Gunsmithing lathes that Grizzley has but on paper and pictures it looks pretty good. Being a toolmaker for 20 years ive seen and ran some junk in american and foreign iron. Problem being is to get a very nice machine with all the doorbells you cant pay for it doing gun work alone. But the Large Grizzley looks to be priced in the low to middle. Do any of you know who has this machine besides Gordy Gritters?
 
I have the smaller one and I love it, I can dial a barrel into .0002" easily and its very nice for the money, I assume the big one is that much better.
 
I am on my second lathe, outgrew the first. Anyway, there are some really good deals to found on american made lathes, has most of the doorbells and some with a fair amount of tooling. The problem I had was with shipping costs and logistics of getting a 7000 lb monster into my garage. I saw some SB's, Monarch's, and Nardini's on practicalmachinist.com for reasonable money. Call around to shippers as they are very competitive right now. Hire someone to unload and place the machine and make chips :) FWIW I went the big grizzly. Flame suit on :(
 
The Hardinge does not have a large enough spindle bore and the 10EE Monarch has too long headstock and only 20" between centers. They are both as good a lathe that you can buy,but not for chambering.
Butch
 
Update:
My new lathe showed up yesterday. This is not my first gunsmithing lathe and won't be my last. Posting this so some people can get an idea of what to expect. A few points I need to make for anyone interested. The 40" bed is what the doctor orderded. The fit of the accessories seems good. The crossslide has what I call "wipers" that push the crud off of the ways before it hits the gibs, nice touch. The foot brake is a nice touch as well as the threaded end of the headstock to make a cathead for. I know Grizzly isn't the best but from what I can see so far, not a bad deal considering the accessories. It is a 0554Z and would reccomend it for an entry level lathe.The Z suffix means it has additional fittings over and above standard. I had af ew snags with the 4
jawchuck, sme of the D1-4 lugs were bad. I had 6 to pick from and was able to make a complete set. Life went on.
The headstock was out of oil, a no brainer but worth noting. The bearing adjustment was spot on so no adjustment needed there. The shifting of this machine was a little weird but I attribute this to learning it, not a criticism. The tools sent with machine are....junk, wrenches, screwdrivers, toss them. The cast iron base is rough but has the proper slopes, holes, spigots where they should be, so its OK. The shift knobs have over spray from the painting which will go away in time, just annoying. It has typical handles of chinese origin, all need to be be cinched down to not be a pain. I leveled the beds all four ways and ran a test cut. In the 36" between the 4jaw chuck and the tailstock it was .002 out, Not perfect but I think I can tweak that a little. The 5K delivered to my door with the goodies is I think a fair price for what you get. You want a SB?, no comparison, but for an average schmuck and upcoming machinist, not a bad deal. Hope this helps anyone looking. As an added note, Grizzly makes a large "gunsmith" lathe, I think this is a better deal for $2300 less. Just my .02
 
Can you elaborate on the "In the 36" between the 4jaw chuck and the tailstock it was .002 out" comment a little? I am also thinking about this lathe.

Tail stock not centered in same axxis as headstock?
 
Ordered a Clausing( 11 g`s ). It will be here in January. Ill let every one know how it works. One more question though, how do you`al like the six-jaws. I`ve never used one but they look like theyed work well. I`m sure most people use 4-jaws, I do every day. Happy shootin, SRM
 
if you can get the bore perfectly centered with a 6jaw chuck you would be the best machinist in the world or your dial indicator is junk. The use of a 4 jaw chuck is so you can move the barrel around to line to bore up.
 
butchlambert said:
Clausing or Harrison.
Butch

Butch, aren't some Clausings and Harrisons made in China and identical [other than the paint] to some other brands that cost half as much?
 
Sin_arms said:
if you can get the bore perfectly centered with a 6jaw chuck you would be the best machinist in the world or your dial indicator is junk. The use of a 4 jaw chuck is so you can move the barrel around to line to bore up.

It's disturbing to me that misinformation such as above is becoming common place on a otherwise stellar forum/website-6mmBR. Statements such as above are causing professionals and experienced home gunsmiths to shake their heads and say why bother or take the time to share their knowledge?

All my six jaw chucks and most of my three jaw are adjustable and used to center work (yes, including the bore of a barrel) as perfectly as a four jaw or cathead. I don't buy them for $69.95 at Harbor Freight or for $159.99 at Grizzly. Buck, Pratt, Bison and other have various names for their adjustable three and six jaw chucks, Adjust Tru, Set Tru, Set-Rite or similar model names. They have finer adjustments than a four jaw so setup is faster and yes, they dial in within a tenth (.0001) on my Intrepid. I find an adjustable three or six jaw chuck to be faster then a four jaw when doing barrel work. Models with four adjusters are preferred to those with three.
 
so its ideal to use a chuck that cost as much as most home gunsmiths lathes is ideal for them when the 4jaw chuck works perfectly fine for them?
 
Clark,
I know absolutely nothing about the new ones. Sin-Arms, I have a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, and a 6 jaw that are adjustable. Several names for them as Rodbolt said.
Butch
 

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