Gunsmith Lathe with DRO

[urbanrifleman]

being able to get parts was the #1 reason i bought a grizzly and a PM but i think that may have backfired lately as I have heard some waiting a year to get parts for them. To be fair l havent called either company to find out what is available but its something to consider.

Not only do you have to wait for parts, delivery for a PM lathe if I purchase one is about 8 months.

 

[hoz53]

Not only do you have to wait for parts, delivery for a PM lathe if I purchase one is about 8 months.

So i heard so i guess all i can do is just hope mine dont break - i feel lucky i have them. if i was buying today im not sure wat i would do.

 

[GenePoole]

I work on the other end also. Using a DRO and threading away, you can insure every thread start is within .0001". Thread any speed your heart desires. VFD and ELS (electronic lead screw) makes it a pleasure to thread anything.

What do you do when the print doesn't call out a thread relief?

0.0001? Do you have a 10000 TPI lead screw?

 

[INTJ]

Long lead times are the norm now for many things. I just ordered a Banks Intake for my 2022 DMax 2500 HD. 4-8 weeks lead time. A couple months ago I had to order some parts for my PM 833T mill--it tipped over during a move. The parts came from Taiwan in around 6 weeks. That said, an 8-12 month wair for the right lathe is worth it.

I have had a PM 1340GT at home for four years. Added a Mark Jacobs circuit board and a VFD to run off three phase. Earlier this year we received a PM 1440GT with a DRO at the shop and I have been chambering barrels with that lathe as well. I can't pick which one I like better, but I am using both as manual lathes.

When it's time to add another lathe at the shop it will be something like a Haas CNC lathe. Right now I have no issue keeping up with demand with the manual lathe.

I only use the DRO on the 1440 to determine tenon length. I don't turn or thread off it, I use the micrometer wheel on the carriage. I set it to zero where I want to stop. I fine I am more accurate watching the wheel turn than I am watching digits spin.

 

[xr650rRider]

What do you do when the print doesn't call out a thread relief?

0.0001? Do you have a 10000 TPI lead screw?

Thread relief isn't required for threading away. Your plunging and starting from a dead stop but entirely doable. Usually takes a couple passes to clean up the start.

.0001" has nothing to do with leadscrew. Just using the DRO and point where your starting your thread is 0 (length of tenon thread, length of muzzle thread) for start of every pass. You thread off the end and disengage the half-nut whenever you want.

 

[LVLAaron]

I use my eyes for threading.

 

[tobnpr]

The Practical Machinist machines wtb/sell forum is a great place to look.
There's what looks to be an excellent condition, late model SB Heavy 10.
Hard bed, camlock spindle- light use in a home shop.
All the accessories- micrometer steady & follow rests, looks like even a tailstock turret.

If you're anywhere near Chicago, I'd run to look at this one before it goes on CL- won't last there.

Perfect, Late Heavy 10 South Bend with loads of accessories in 46311

My dad bought this lathe new in 1980 including the serialized collet closer, lever cross slide, and bed turret. Note the D1-4 Camlock spindle with nearly new Buck 6 jaw with both sets of jaws. It comes with a real Aloris AXA toolpost with 10 holders, drill chuck, live center, steady rest...

www.practicalmachinist.com

 

[GenePoole]

Thread relief isn't required for threading away. Your plunging and starting from a dead stop but entirely doable. Usually takes a couple passes to clean up the start.

.0001" has nothing to do with leadscrew. Just using the DRO and point where your starting your thread is 0 (length of tenon thread, length of muzzle thread) for start of every pass. You thread off the end and disengage the half-nut whenever you want.

Perhaps I'm replying to the wrong thread. I thought you said you thread from left to right at any speed you want with 0.0001 start accuracy. That requires a relief the way I've seen it done (Joe Pieczynski) and unless the print calls for a thread relief, that method it wrong. As for the start, you can only get 48 possible starts with a 6 TPI lead screw so I don't know what you are talking about. If your doing CNC then I'm even more confused on your statements.

 

[urbanrifleman]

Perhaps I'm replying to the wrong thread. I thought you said you thread from left to right at any speed you want with 0.0001 start accuracy. That requires a relief the way I've seen it done (Joe Pieczynski) and unless the print calls for a thread relief, that method it wrong. As for the start, you can only get 48 possible starts with a 6 TPI lead screw so I don't know what you are talking about. If your doing CNC then I'm even more confused on your statements.

Perhaps

 

[Sniperhandle]

Perhaps I'm replying to the wrong thread. I thought you said you thread from left to right at any speed you want with 0.0001 start accuracy. That requires a relief the way I've seen it done (Joe Pieczynski) and unless the print calls for a thread relief, that method it wrong. As for the start, you can only get 48 possible starts with a 6 TPI lead screw so I don't know what you are talking about. If your doing CNC then I'm even more confused on your statements.

I think what he is referring to is the fact that with a variable frequency drive you can slow the machine down to a crawl and thread right up to a shoulder easily.

 

[urbanrifleman]

I found a Standard Modern 1334 MIL with DRO. I'm really considering buying it. Does anyone have a SM?

 

[D-mon]

I have the chance to work on one of these daily:

TM1960G Centre Lathe - Machineryhouse

Become a Machineryhouse Mate! New Zealand's leading supplier of Engineering, Metal & Wood working machinery. Buy online or in-store.

www.machineryhouse.co.nz

take a look at their range and you might recognise some of the lathe they sell.

the brand dashin is an exact copy of the old Colchester lathe from the UK, probably some of the best machines ever made.

 

[Sniperhandle]

I found a Standard Modern 1334 MIL with DRO. I'm really considering buying it. Does anyone have a SM?

As someone who does as many barrels as you do, Have you considered a Haas CNC? You can dial your barrels in dead nuts and then at least have it do the threading, Conterbores Etc for you, But it can do the chambering too.

 

[urbanrifleman]

As someone who does as many barrels as you do, Have you considered a Haas CNC? You can dial your barrels in dead nuts and then at least have it do the threading, Conterbores Etc for you, But it can do the chambering too.

I don't need a CNC. Just a tight manual.

I'm not doing that many barrels. Not yet. My business is steady, but still brand new.

 

[Larry Koch]

Precision Matthews is the way to go. They stand behind there warranty of there machines. Go with the Taiwan models and 3 phase. If you don’t have 3 phase you can get a converter cheap.

 

[LVLAaron]

I don't know about "cheap" but you can convert them.

 

[itchyTF]

I bought my PM1340GT about 4 or 5 years ago with a 3 phase motor and Hitachi VFD. I think it was only about $270. No idea what they cost now.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

He says he cant get a PM lathe

 

[itchyTF]

I guess I was pointing out the relatively inexpensive VFD.

 

[LVLAaron]

A Hitachi 2.2kw VFD is less than 400 bucks but it’s a real project to re-wire most of the lathe, tune the motor, replace contactors, order a bunch of parts… it’s not plug and play.