Excellent Dusty! I look forward to it.
Glue In - The Benefits?
- Thread starter Curious
- Start date
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Dont get too excited as much as i work i been trying to glue that one in for 2yrs- i shoulda stayed retired
Cigarcop
Silver $$ Contributor
Just because they look good doesn’t mean there right as your dial indicator shows..... but like you found out it doesn’t necessarily mean it won’t shoot either!! Lol
Resurrecting this old thread because I don’t think it can ever get OLD.
When Glue and Screw is used on a steel to steel bedding job…
How much Torque is applied to the Action Screws ? I know this could be answered by Torque Tuning the screws, but Just wondered if there is a standard answer that has proven to work ?
Some Chassis Manufacturers, using aluminum bedding blocks, recommend 65”#’s for the stock screws. I think the theory is “enough torque and all problems are solved”? I haven’t bought into this yet ??
Thoughts Please … Thanks
When Glue and Screw is used on a steel to steel bedding job…
How much Torque is applied to the Action Screws ? I know this could be answered by Torque Tuning the screws, but Just wondered if there is a standard answer that has proven to work ?
Some Chassis Manufacturers, using aluminum bedding blocks, recommend 65”#’s for the stock screws. I think the theory is “enough torque and all problems are solved”? I haven’t bought into this yet ??
Thoughts Please … Thanks
Alex Wheeler
Site $$ Sponsor
Torque wont fix poorly fitting parts. It wont stop a round action from twisting in the bedding either. The whole point of a good glue and screw is a stress free bond. The screw tourque should not effect anything. Snug with a t handle wrench is what I do. The screws are redundant
ShtrRdy
Silver $$ Contributor
As a 'tidbit' of information, Accuracy International's instructions for their AICS specifies 6 N-m of torque on the action screws. This translates to about 52 in-lb.
That being said, Accuracy International glues and screws their action in the chassis on their factory rifles.
That being said, Accuracy International glues and screws their action in the chassis on their factory rifles.
Wonder if they still go with 52”#’s after glue in ?
Then the question is, can this process show improvement on target ?
ShtrRdy
Silver $$ Contributor
I don't know about improvement on target. I have two of their AICS's - their 'legacy' model - that shoot very well.
Probably not but that extra level of insurance that it’s still going to work and be accurate after humping it across a valley or shipping it across the globe might be appreciated.
I've never seen a glue and screwed come loose. I've seen multiple straight glue ins come loose. One, at a nationals while the man was leading. Done right, I don't think there is a down side but I won't go as far as saying it shoots better or worse. It'll cost a few bucks more but is solid insurance against Murphy.
I could tell you what vibration analysis told me. This is an old thread. Without going back, I think I mentioned sometrhing here related to that. If not, pm me. I can tell you something that was extremely interesting to me, at least.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
Epoxies vary in their adhesive quality. JB is a very good adhesive. Years ago, when they did that sort of thing Kelly McMillan's smith did a glue-in for me. He bedded the action with Marine Tex and did the glue-in with JB Weld. A little later Jerry Stiller used some clear epoxy that was designed to attach golf club shafts to club heads. I think that his reasoning was that for that application it had to be flexible enough to survive multiple impacts, and have excellent adhesive qualities. Neither has changed a bit in over 20 years.
I've glued a bunch of rifles, starting in 1978, and there is no better way to achieve consistency. The receiver has to be bedded first and must sit in the stock, stress-free, before gluing.
For a 40X, I first eliminated the recoil lug (fitted the barrel with no lug or replaced the lug with a spacer if I was not rebarrelling). Then I glass bedded the rifle as usual (I used Acraglas). I have always floated everything from the front of the trigger group on back. I used a guide screw at the rear, for alignment. After the receiver was bedded, I removed the barrel and prepared to glue it in. The first step was to wash the receiver and bedding with brake cleaner, to remove all the release agent. Next, I masked off the stock and the receiver and sandblasted, with coarse grit, the bedding surface and the receiver, where they would be joined. I put a plug in the front guard screw hole. I drilled the holes for the trigger pins and cut a groove ahead of the trigger group to give the epoxy a path out; so it wouldn't flow back into the trigger area. Next, I cleaned the sandblasted surfaces again, with a cleaner/degreaser and covered them with paper towel while I mixed up the glue (more Acraglas). I brushed a coat of Acraglas onto the bedding in the stock and onto the receiver. I set the receiver in place and tied it down with surgical tubing, and let it sit for ten minutes or so. Then I removed the tubing and cleaned off the excess epoxy. I tied it down again, but lightly, and set the stock on a rack (horizontally) and let it sit for 24 hours. After the glue had set, it was a simple matter to re-install the barrel and the trigger. This was all there was to it. This was the method I used in 1978, and it is the method I use today. I had occasion, a few months back, to remove from the stock a rifle I had glued together in 1979. I put a wedge between the stock and barrel and heated the action with a heat gun. When it came apart, the glue was still adhering to the receiver and stock and the epoxy had to pull apart to come out. Over forty years and it was still holding just fine.
Gluing an action into the stock eliminates the occasional glitch which might occur when the rifle shifts a bit in the bedding. It is just the easy way to do it. The first rifle I glued together went from being a .3 rifle to a solid sub 1/4 moa rifle (this was good stuff in 1978). I never shot another BR rifle without gluing it in. Most of my "F" class guns are bedded but my best one is glued. I still float the tangs too! WH
For a 40X, I first eliminated the recoil lug (fitted the barrel with no lug or replaced the lug with a spacer if I was not rebarrelling). Then I glass bedded the rifle as usual (I used Acraglas). I have always floated everything from the front of the trigger group on back. I used a guide screw at the rear, for alignment. After the receiver was bedded, I removed the barrel and prepared to glue it in. The first step was to wash the receiver and bedding with brake cleaner, to remove all the release agent. Next, I masked off the stock and the receiver and sandblasted, with coarse grit, the bedding surface and the receiver, where they would be joined. I put a plug in the front guard screw hole. I drilled the holes for the trigger pins and cut a groove ahead of the trigger group to give the epoxy a path out; so it wouldn't flow back into the trigger area. Next, I cleaned the sandblasted surfaces again, with a cleaner/degreaser and covered them with paper towel while I mixed up the glue (more Acraglas). I brushed a coat of Acraglas onto the bedding in the stock and onto the receiver. I set the receiver in place and tied it down with surgical tubing, and let it sit for ten minutes or so. Then I removed the tubing and cleaned off the excess epoxy. I tied it down again, but lightly, and set the stock on a rack (horizontally) and let it sit for 24 hours. After the glue had set, it was a simple matter to re-install the barrel and the trigger. This was all there was to it. This was the method I used in 1978, and it is the method I use today. I had occasion, a few months back, to remove from the stock a rifle I had glued together in 1979. I put a wedge between the stock and barrel and heated the action with a heat gun. When it came apart, the glue was still adhering to the receiver and stock and the epoxy had to pull apart to come out. Over forty years and it was still holding just fine.
Gluing an action into the stock eliminates the occasional glitch which might occur when the rifle shifts a bit in the bedding. It is just the easy way to do it. The first rifle I glued together went from being a .3 rifle to a solid sub 1/4 moa rifle (this was good stuff in 1978). I never shot another BR rifle without gluing it in. Most of my "F" class guns are bedded but my best one is glued. I still float the tangs too! WH
Exactly, that extra insurance for an important competition or military action.
STS
Silver $$ Contributor
Glued in actions were new when I started shooting back in the mid 70's. I remember one poor soul that was coming off the firing line at the Super Shoot in 1977 or 78. He was carrying the rifle by the bottom of the stock, upside down, when the barreled action and scope, dropped out of the stock onto the gravel. I'm guessing he would have preferred a screw or two at that point in time.
When glue-ins fail, it is because the metal and/or stock was poorly prepped. WH
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
I bead blast the bottom of my actions for straight glue in. The fine garnet medium makes the perfect surface for bonding.
I use JB weld.
I think our PPC’s Are fine for a straight glue in. My 30BR is glued and screwed.
I use JB weld.
I think our PPC’s Are fine for a straight glue in. My 30BR is glued and screwed.
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