Getting into the world of 6mmBR

[Vitally]

Hey all,

Im sure this has been asked time and time again, However I'm hoping to get some more personal feedback on my specific case.

First off I'm not a new shooter, however I only recently turned 18 so I just got my PAL license. For years I've been shooting with a long time family friend who was big into long range stuff which meant I had access to a few really nice long range rifles. However he's recently moved across the country taking his guns and cheap ammo with him. Damn... now I need to get my own gear rather than being a leech .

I'm not a new shooter, but I will be a new gun owner so I need some advice:
I've put together a spreadsheet of what (I think) it will cost get into 6mmBR. I was wondering if anyone could confirm the parts I've chosen make up a good setup for someone learning to shoot and reload 6mmBR. Additionally I was wondering if anyone could tell me what tools I would need to enable me to do home loading and what they cost.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/115FfnbpDCOYqeJ1gT-iiMKHDlRdnOpKsE2GQ8Pz0DPU/edit?usp=sharing

I've deliberately chosen a cheap scope because at the moment i'm more interested in getting a solid rifle platform I can build up my skill with rather than creating a match grade rifle. That goes for the bulk bullets too.

I have about $3500 saved up right now to spend on this project.

Thanks a ton you guys, I really appreciate the help! I don't claim to be an expert in any of this so i'm sure i've made plenty of mistakes.

 

[dkhunt14]

Personally I would put more money into a good scope and good bullets. Both are important to long range accuracy. I would put off buying a mat until later if need be. I would also think about a cheaper powder. Usually Hodgdon or Reloader powder is usually a lot cheaper in 8 pound jugs. Matt

 

[LHSmith]

++1 and I'll add to buy a proven used rifle and/or rifle/scope combo. For that amount you could end up with a custom actioned rifle that will hold its value and with much higher odds that it will be more accurate than any factory rifle. a If you are patient, you'll find one in these classifieds, and most often the load data for that particular barrel has already been developed.
Also, if you are short on patience, check out "The Shooters Corner" website. Bob White has an extensive inventory of target, varmint, match, and hunting rifles at very reasonable prices and is GTG to deal with.

 

[rvn1968]

Invest in good manuals.You are MUCH better off with iron sights than a cheap scope.In the Corps we trained with irons on our 308 m-14's out to 500 meters Those were not $700 Olympic sights either.As was said already watch these classifieds,and look at the top of the page to see ads that you might have missed.(unread posts). Be patient,just like everything in shooting,the patient guy gets the buck-trophy-whatever. JMHO,Tom.

 

[Vitally]

the mat was a bit of a luxury anyway. Dropping that saves some cash I can put toward a better optic. Using cheaper powder also means I can invest in slightly more expensive bullets. I just used that powder as my baseline because it was what the 6mmBR website recommended in one of the articles. What I'm unsure about is how much I should spend on bullets themselves. The more I spend on ammunition the fewer shots I'll be able to make during a given range trip. Is a 50% more expensive round worth getting 50% less practise?

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I really appreciate it!

 

[FatBoy]

I see "PAL" and the safe and wonder if you're in Europe? If so, that changes things a bit.

For $1600, you could build a very nice rifle in he US, or buy someone's old project and be off and running. I'may not sure if the Savage has a small firing pin and tight pin hole. If not, it will pierce primers and eventually damage the pin and bolt face. Factor that into the cost. If the Savage is chambered in 6BR already and has the small pin you should be good, assuming it's an 8 twist barrel.

I prefer Varget to VV powder, but it's best to buy a small amount of each powder you want to try and each bulletx then see what the rifle likes best. In my case, 29.5gr Varget with a CCI 450M and a 107 Sierra ad been a super accrate load to 1k in both of my 6BRs.

You have a good path forward. I wouldn't get caught up in buying large amounts of powder, especially if you have a restriction where you live. It ouod suck to have 8# of VV and it doesn't shoot as well as Varget or RL15. I also don't recall seeing dies, a press, a scale, priming tool (if press doesn't do it) care lube, a chamfer tool or a case trimmer. All will eventually be needed as the brass lasts basically forever.

 

[Tim Singleton]

Very nice list. From my experience I have a few Savages. The model 12 factory barrel is going to be hit or miss. With just as good a chance of a bad one as a decent one.

I would keep an eye out for a used rifle you can have a new barrel put on. I'm not sure what rifles your friend who moved away had. But you maybe disappointed with the savage compared to what you have been used to shooting.
Check out these guys in Canada they can help you as well. Several nice used high quality rifles listed here
http://benchrestforum.ca/index.php?PHPSESSID=i132npru7snvt168i93dirn2p5&board=5.0

Fir the bullet allowance you can buy Berger or the Sierra bullets. IMO anything else will be disappointing

 

[Cold Bore]

...buy a proven used rifle and/or rifle/scope combo. For that amount you could end up with a custom actioned rifle that will hold its value and with much higher odds that it will be more accurate than any factory rifle.

There's your best avenue.

Save money on the rifle, and invest the difference into a better scope.

Why shoot a quality rifle if you're looking through a cloudy sub-par scope that may not reliably hold zero? You say you want to "build your skills", but it's hard to know what your skills are, and if you are truly seeing improvement, if your scope won't allow your rig to shoot to it's potential.

You have to find a balance within your budget, and get the best of both that your money will allow. That may mean not being top end on one (or both), but it also means not cutting big corners on the other. It makes no sense to shoot the budget on one piece at the expense of the rest.

 

[Cold Bore]

And $200 for a mat??

If you're just getting started in this, throw an old piece of carpet on the ground, for free, and put that money towards upgrading your scope.

 

[dmoran]

$1648 for:
- non-bedded stock
- non-trued action
- bolt that needs timed, bushed, and lift-kit
- trigger that needs work or replaced
- a barrel that has a very high chance of being a chattered up lemon
- in the end, no matter what you may spend on it, a rifle that is worth less then you paid new

Like others stated above, build a new one or buy a used proven, is my suggestion.

My 2-cents
Donovan Moran

 

[Vitally]

To clarify I live in western Canada. We have pretty relaxed rules regulating the components of ammunition and how much powder your allowed to store. I believe the official limit being how much you can justify to the RCMP should they be curious.

I chose the mat, as expensive as it was, because that's the mat my friend used when we shot together.

You guys have definitely given me lots to think about, I'm going to refine my list to take into account all the advice.

I think my best option is going to be to find someone shooting and loading 6mmBR locally and go mooch information off them until I can learn the particular ins and outs of the cartridge.

Thanks again!

 

[snert]

A rifle is a receiver that will last forever if treated right, with a stock that may or may not be suitable in 5 years, with a barrel that is replaceable. Buy a custom USED receiver (or rifle) and use the money saved to buy good glass and good bullets. Upgrade the barrel when you can shoot better than it does.

don't spend money on accessories....get powder and bullets and learn to read wind by shooting, not buying stuff.

Just my opinion, but it has worked for me

 

[Vitally]

snert,

I've been shooting long enough to be comfortable with predicting ballistics and reading the wind. Up to a few weeks ago I used to shoot regularly at 700m (the limits of my range). Mostly I've been refining my breath control and shakes. I'm naturally a shaky person.

 

[snert]

Then you are well on the way! I have worked in the industry and if I have learned one thig it is that nothing makes a rifle shoot better than shooting it! Every year at the beginning of the season my gun doesnt shoot so good, but by the end of the year, amazingly it shoots much better! ;D

Enjoy your build and welcome to owning and loading your own!

Snert

 

[Rpbump]

I paid $1200 for a 6br advertised on this forum. The stock was a bench rest style, 8 twist 28" barrel, Savage 110 action.
Last month at the HOTSA range in Texas I was able to hit 8 out of 10 clays at 500m. The scope was a Weaver T36 also bought off this site for $335. For the money you have can save you should be able to not only buy a decent rifle & scope but, the reloading gear needed for assembling accurate ammo. I live in FL but traveled to TX to shoot with a good friend but have found a range outside of Brunswick, GA that goes out to 600yds and I'm in the process of applying for membership as the range is only 75 miles from my front door. Weaver scopes are a bargain and the sight settings are repeatable, spending 1 to 2 thousand dollars for a scope right now would be foolish and you can use the difference to work on your shooting skills. Buy a decent bi-pod / front rest and a good rear bag. GOOD LUCK

Rpbump