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Fixing loose primer pockets!

I use the LP swage pin on my lee APP to fix so brass. Just set the depth that you want it to swage the pocket. If you do too much just swage with the sp pin. I had to do this with 350 legend when it first came out. There was not brass at first
 
Loose primer pockets are almost always a sign of excessive case head expansion. This is a warning that the load is too hot. Speer has done extensive study on case head expansion and that's where I got my information.

The OP states otherwise (not over pressure) claiming the brass is soft. That may be true, I don't know, I am not a gunsmith or expert. I guess if you are not getting hard bolt lift or ejection marks on the case rim then maybe he has a point that it's not a pressure issue.

I would just be careful jumping into this "fix" before making sure it not a sign of high pressure as evidenced by the aforementioned signs of high pressure.
 
I have always assumed that primer pockets loosen from the pressure resulting from firings. Of course over pressure loads hassen the inevitable, but ultimately all loads will cause loose primer pockets. I believe that as long as the primers stay in the pocket it doesn't really matter how tight/loose they are. The procedure detailed in the video basically creates a "pre-crimp" on the outer edge of the pocket. It does not "tighten" the pocket itself. But does it matter, if the primer stays in the case?
 
Loose primer pockets are almost always a sign of excessive case head expansion.
Either that or a sign of Federal Brass
I have a butt load of 223 Fed just waiting to go to the recycler I might try this on
But I bet it only holds up one time with the Federal
Seems like Federal fully anneals the whole length of the case
---
In any case, it might come in handy sometime if you're in a pinch and really really need that couple extra rounds to equal 50 for a box full,
I'd label the swaged brass though
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Who knows, maybe the head is work hardened enough by that time it may hold up?
 
Either that or a sign of Federal Brass
I have a butt load of 223 Fed just waiting to go to the recycler I might try this on
But I bet it only holds up one time with the Federal
Seems like Federal fully anneals the whole length of the case
---
In any case, it might come in handy sometime if you're in a pinch and really really need that couple extra rounds to equal 50 for a box full,
I'd label the swaged brass though
---
Who knows, maybe the head is work hardened enough by that time it may hold up?
I got away from gold medal 308 for that reason. Seems like federal is pretty soft.
 
Either that or a sign of Federal Brass
I have a butt load of 223 Fed just waiting to go to the recycler I might try this on
But I bet it only holds up one time with the Federal
Seems like Federal fully anneals the whole length of the case
---
In any case, it might come in handy sometime if you're in a pinch and really really need that couple extra rounds to equal 50 for a box full,
I'd label the swaged brass though
---
Who knows, maybe the head is work hardened enough by that time it may hold up?
As I said, I am not an expert, but over the past 50+ years I've reloaded several legacy cartridges such as the 222, 223, 243, 22 250, 308, and 30 06 using a variety of brands of brass such as Remington, Winchester, Starline, Hornady, and Federal and never had loose primer pockets with obtaining about 12 to 15 reloads.

I retired them usually because of split necks or as a matter of preventative safety after 15 reloads reasoning that I easily amortized the cost of the brass at this many reloads.
 
I currently shoot 6 different calibers, half dozen previously. The only one I've ever gotten loose pockets on is my current 6.5x55GWI. I blamed the first one on a maybe a bad batch of Lapua. Working with a different lot # now. Very soft fireforming load and it's no different. Barrels were chambered by a Very reputable member here. I've got one more Chambered Barrel to go and I'm done. Sad because The damn thing is such a good shooter. I've got 2 good loads for it with 140 Hybrids and 150SMKs. I have been doing a similar bandaid fix, but slightly modified to get more life out of the Brass. It's going to turn into a 7mm of some flavor
 
I have always assumed that primer pockets loosen from the pressure resulting from firings. Of course over pressure loads hassen the inevitable, but ultimately all loads will cause loose primer pockets. I believe that as long as the primers stay in the pocket it doesn't really matter how tight/loose they are. The procedure detailed in the video basically creates a "pre-crimp" on the outer edge of the pocket. It does not "tighten" the pocket itself. But does it matter, if the primer stays in the case?
Just thinking out loud here. I tend to agree with that, though knowing I now only have perhaps 20% of a primer-to-pocket gas seal, as opposed to 100% when the pocket was tight, would I risk damaging the face of my custom gun bolt to the significantly increased chance of flame cutting damage if/when the seal fails.
 
I came across this video, and found it interesting. I haven't tried it (yet):

It does work, I have a friend turn grade 8 bolts down until they “just fit down the neck of a fired cartridge and square off the face of the bolt with a slight radius to the edge.
Set the ball bearing {I got a whole selection box of various sizes off Amazon of which I only need/use two sizes- sm/lg pockets} into a dent in a piece of hard wood and tap bolt and keep checking with a set of primer pocket “Go/No Go” gages {pin gages also good} until the “Go” gage just fits. Good to go for at least 3-5 more loads. A bit slow and tedious but it will give a tighter effect and hold a primer in a pocket that has loosened up.
Also found that White River primers, at least the Lg ones that I have used are also a very tight fit and can possibly be a help to extend the life of the case.
Rollsizing @ firing can “Perhaps” also help slow down the primer pocket expansion, it will NOT fix a loose pocket but a lot of reports claiming that it does slow down that problem.
Seems to be a real problem with rebated “Magnum” cartridges as there is less brass surrounding the primer pocket… Hence the advent of the 7-6.5PRCW to get .284W and 7-SAUM performance but with better brass profile and until recently better availability of brass.
 
Federal brass skips a strike in the forming and drawing so the heads are a little soft. It is a cost cutting production thing to increase production and lower cost. One less step to set up. One less station means more $ is saved during manufacturing.
 
Just thinking out loud here. I tend to agree with that, though knowing I now only have perhaps 20% of a primer-to-pocket gas seal, as opposed to 100% when the pocket was tight, would I risk damaging the face of my custom gun bolt to the significantly increased chance of flame cutting damage if/when the seal fails.
Frankly I doubt there is much chance of that. Just my opinion, but it seems to me that 50k to 60k psi will likely expand the cup to seal it. But could be wrong.
 
My advice is get some primers whose size is on the higher side of tolerances. Ginex primers have been noted by many to be harder to seat... But they can extend the life of cases with loose pockets. They are also good primers with similar accuracy and ES/SD to American ones.
 
I have always assumed that primer pockets loosen from the pressure resulting from firings. Of course over pressure loads hassen the inevitable, but ultimately all loads will cause loose primer pockets. I believe that as long as the primers stay in the pocket it doesn't really matter how tight/loose they are. The procedure detailed in the video basically creates a "pre-crimp" on the outer edge of the pocket. It does not "tighten" the pocket itself. But does it matter, if the primer stays in the case?
Spot on. Try another primer brand or buy new cases.
 

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