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First build-300wsm complete. 16 feb update with target pics

  • Thread starter Thread starter mram10
  • Start date Start date
1CBE1246-7F3C-4829-8ABB-C7133946CAA4.jpeg 471EA570-859E-4502-814E-3897C51966C3.jpeg 304CE338-A22B-4A15-901A-2B8881E27E88.jpeg Chatter fixed!
This is at 90rpm with iscar carbide insert. Started .009 cut, .007, .006, .005 and did a few at .003 with a cleanup at the end. Very aggressive cuts cause my wife is rushing me. No sanding or file touch ups. Right out of the lathe.
 
Anchoring that thing to the floor is not a fix all. A lathe or any machine tool should be set in position, brought up to room temperature (maybe a day or two later) and then precisley leveled STRESS FREE! Pulling it down to the floor should only be done maybe on one corner if needed to take twist out. You would be suprised how much you can twist a machine while turning leveling screws by hand even on something that weighs 10,000 lbs.
 
Tm, the reamer only came with that pilot and I shouldn’t have even tried it. Wondering if i should cut an inch off the chamber and redo it with the correct pilot. I’ll shoot it first and see

I've waited 3 weeks to get the correct pilot before I did a barrel job. See the other thread about making one.

With .150" cuts your flutes would have been packed with chips. Are you sure that wasn't what was binding?

--Jerry
 
Anchoring that thing to the floor is not a fix all. A lathe or any machine tool should be set in position, brought up to room temperature (maybe a day or two later) and then precisley leveled STRESS FREE! Pulling it down to the floor should only be done maybe on one corner if needed to take twist out. You would be suprised how much you can twist a machine while turning leveling screws by hand even on something that weighs 10,000 lbs.

good advise for heavy machines. The light machines on sheet metal stands need to be bolted down to stay in place--that or fill the cabinet stand with concrete. --Jerry
 
Jerry, the pilot was binding while pushing it in the barrel prior to any cutting. Definitely an oversized pilot
 
EE589CCA-8A18-4D15-8B60-6EA5DB3A4982.jpeg Got it all put together in an hs stock for now so I can take it out in the morning. I’ll try some factory 180 win silver bt and make up some 210s with 4831sc, .005 off lands. I’ll pile on the sand bags and use a string for the first shot just in case :)
 
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Next barrel try cutting it with 10-12 passes and 2 spring passes. Recommended passes for what you are threading is ~12.

good advise for heavy machines. The light machines on sheet metal stands need to be bolted down to stay in place--that or fill the cabinet stand with concrete. --Jerry
Small lathes sitting on 2x framed wood benches, run just fine. If you have to bolt a lathe down you are doing some serious out of balance or position, work.
 
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Those threads look much better. Make sure you pull the tool out prior to disengaging the half nuts to keep that thread closest to the shoulder headed in the same direction as the rest of them. :D If you need to pickup the thread and extend them forward you will have a nice thread to work with. Mix a bit of the solution I told you about and give it a try on the last pass or two.
 
Anchoring that thing to the floor is not a fix all. A lathe or any machine tool should be set in position, brought up to room temperature (maybe a day or two later) and then precisley leveled STRESS FREE! Pulling it down to the floor should only be done maybe on one corner if needed to take twist out. You would be suprised how much you can twist a machine while turning leveling screws by hand even on something that weighs 10,000 lbs.

Did commercial construction in college using leveling screws on high rise floors, so I get your analogy. I am not seeing how adding wedge bolts to give the lathe a solid foundation would be a hinderence. Seems like it can only help.
 
Those threads look much better. Make sure you pull the tool out prior to disengaging the half nuts to keep that thread closest to the shoulder headed in the same direction as the rest of them. :D If you need to pickup the thread and extend them forward you will have a nice thread to work with. Mix a bit of the solution I told you about and give it a try on the last pass or two.

Oops. I’ve been disengaging and pulling out the tool at the same time. Will do on the solution
 
Level it first then grout it to match the floor. Then bolt it down if necessary, much like bedding a rifle. This is the foundation of your set ups!
 
Unless I'm blind there is a radius at the bottom of your shoulder .You might be plunging deeper for the cut but it looks like the tool needs to ground to a finer point. Good luck on your journey
 
Thx guys.

Mollett, there is a radius cause I was told to plunge it in a couple thousandths to make it square. I didn’t take time on this practice one, just wanted to see if the chatter was fixed on the threads. Should I make a hss tool for the shoulder?

Took the pilot off the reamer, found a drill bit it fit snug on and turned it down just under a .001 with a stone. Polished it up and it works great! Thanks for the tip.

Couldn’t shoot today, but got reloads ready. Standard 1000yd load of 210vld with 64gr h4831.
 
Work kept me busy the last week, so I plan on taking it out in the morning.

Also, after going back to see what the difference was between the fl sized case and the go gauge, I found it needed another .004 reamed out. After the touch up, I sanded the chamber with 500 grit then ran a scotchbrite. Worked great and very happy with results.
 
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