• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

First build-300wsm complete. 16 feb update with target pics

  • Thread starter Thread starter mram10
  • Start date Start date

mram10

DB35E63E-30AE-43DF-A039-286240AE54F2.jpeg 47E657EC-3C36-4D67-93D5-7C3C51469354.jpeg 8CFE4138-A2B6-41DF-89DA-AA4FE34C5EBF.jpeg 9B7D6EDF-9CC5-4E73-B0F1-42E9DE68B9D3.jpeg Rem 700 long action (still needs stripped and cerakote)
Christensen arms carbon barrel
PTG match 300 wsm reamer (.3535 neck, .169fb)
Finished the lathe work this morning but still waiting on manners to send the stock. Couple questions:
1. Shank length is .950 instead of .998 (.010 off lugs) because I was told it doesn’t matter. Thoughts?
2. This rifle is for me, so I headspaced with a fl sized piece of brass and cut the neck off. My brass fits fine as does some over the counter stuff, but a couple other bought types wouldn’t fit. Since I only shoot handloads and my brass fits fine, does it matter?
Edit: went back and used go gauge to verify.
3. The reamer was very tight and I had to use a cleaning rod to tap it out. Is that normal?
4. I used a piece of 500 grit in the chamber at 780 rpm to polish out any marks. Good/bad?
Edit: went back and sanded at 780 again till it smoothed outmand shined up
I know someone will ask, but I’m sorry, it isn’t for sale ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
FAA7E3F0-B119-4789-9AB8-D04C16AF5406.jpeg 44563FBF-D834-4770-A92A-88EB09C0C415.jpeg B88F8C44-5A65-4760-9439-6C2A1DB28B72.jpeg 4A7217E4-C530-4606-90CF-5AED5E61E1D6.jpeg 04BF2D18-8873-477D-84B2-D16B8C1046A4.jpeg Tried to show chamber here.
Setup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So if you shortened your tenon by .048 did you make your counterbore shallower by .048"? If not, then your case is unsupported for .048" where it should be supported. Not good. Hopefully, the clearance from bolt nose to bottom of counterbore is .010".

--Jerry
 
How come you never take pictures of your setup and work? That'd be worth more for critiques than the finished product. For instance, how are you aligning your barrel? We can't tell how concentric you chamber is based on a final picture. What about the action? Looks like there was some cutting done there; what was the setup for that?
 
How come you never take pictures of your setup and work? That'd be worth more for critiques than the finished product. For instance, how are you aligning your barrel? We can't tell how concentric you chamber is based on a final picture. What about the action? Looks like there was some cutting done there; what was the setup for that?

So you're saying that without this, he doesn't have to worry about his last statement? :-)
 
Jerry, I adjusted the counter bore to be .010 from bolt.
Gene, I get busy and don’t want to bother. I’m going out to build a 6.5-284 now and will take pics of setup. The receiver lugs were slightly marred, so I cleaned them up with a boring bar. Took off .002. Afraid to take more off.
 
Sounds like a PTG reamer strikes again. o_O That's why I don't buy PTG reamers anymore. They don't cut as nice and have issues like your talking about. The lack of headaches is worth the additional cost for a Manson or JGS because you get what you pay for and they work correctly every time. To me that says the taper on the reamer isn't correct or you need to stop and clean it out more often because a flute is packing with chips. Still need to work on the threading feeds and speeds or how rigid your holding the barrel. The tenon length is what you measure it to be so that is irrelevant.

I'll leave you with this......buy/borrow/rent a go gauge. It will lessen the headaches.
 
Jerry, I adjusted the counter bore to be .010 from bolt.
Gene, I get busy and don’t want to bother. I’m going out to build a 6.5-284 now and will take pics of setup. The receiver lugs were slightly marred, so I cleaned them up with a boring bar. Took off .002. Afraid to take more off.

OK then you have only compromized your "3 rings of steel". It is a remington safety feature. Other's don't even have it. so many will say it isn't important.

Taking a cut off your lugs will reduce primary extraction and eventually the handle will rub on the action. Should always be minimized, as you did. --Jerry
 
I hate to be like this or discourage you because that is not my intention. I started on my own a few years ago so I know what it is like. I had/have a few mentors that helped me along the way. But I really think you need to stop and get some schooling or instruction from a competent smith or machinist. It seems like you still dont have the basics, or the correct tooling and equipment.

Nick
 
I hate to be like this or discourage you because that is not my intention. I started on my own a few years ago so I know what it is like. I had/have a few mentors that helped me along the way. But I really think you need to stop and get some schooling or instruction from a competent smith or machinist. It seems like you still dont have the basics, or the correct tooling and equipment.

Nick
No pun intended but I like the way you think.
 
Tenon length doesn't matter? And I see the ring inside of the chamber now that Stan mentioned it. Solid pilot reamer or removable pilot? Got any pics of the fired brass? You really need to do something about the chatter on those threads. I know, it doesn't matter how ugly or how pretty your threads are. Still, shows you've got a problem....
 
E37E0832-487C-45E7-BC08-25D22566C4C8.jpeg 3261706B-1377-4947-8D78-FE93573DA35A.jpeg 8722D721-F815-4EB7-B3AA-2894D06DE314.jpeg 46D030ED-9CFC-4F81-86D5-C7D5B54DD238.jpeg 16B61DF1-4192-461F-8BEC-E68125AF1E97.jpeg I agree with Nate, it is the reamer ;)
Nick, I’m too old to wait. I’ll learn as I go buddy. Plenty of experience to learn from on the forums.
The reamer was a ptg with pilot. Super tight. As for the setup, here are some pics from the 6.5-284 I just finished. Now that I have stuff to shoot, I’ll take time to go through the lathe AGAIN and see if I can get the shakes out of it.
 
68B1224B-0853-481A-8152-2FFCCB25B8CB.jpeg 8527868F-91F6-4BBB-8DD9-22B567DEE84C.jpeg Here are feet I built that stretch front to back, 2 under the head stock and 1 under the tail. They have 5/8 bolts going through with a washer and nut on both sides to adjust. I didn’t epoxy them into the concrete, just set them in so it wouldn’t walk. Guess I’ll have to get some wedge bolts and try that.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,308
Messages
2,216,085
Members
79,535
Latest member
drzaous
Back
Top