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Finding your lands (video)

Its really simple, I plan to make more videos as it seems guys really like them. I'll do one one ejector removal. Donavans idea would work too, but you wont get that precise feel with the ejector pushing on the case. I think it some thing that really should be removed.

Bats roll pin is a very light press fit, you can just push it out with a pin punch, no hammer needed.
BAT machine has a video on their web site demonstrating the removal of the ejector. All you need is a 1/16 pin punch and a small hammer. Believe me, If I an do it anyone can.
 
If you measure to find your lands and headspace this way then put your ejector and firing pin back in, does the ejector not push the brass forward and now give you contact with the lands and datum that you weren't seeing with it out nullifying what you just measured?
 
If you measure to find your lands and headspace this way then put your ejector and firing pin back in, does the ejector not push the brass forward and now give you contact with the lands and datum that you weren't seeing with it out nullifying what you just measured?
i can see this as a potential problem if one jumps bullets in which case removal of the ejector would help. if one seats bullets .020+ or so into the lands then ejector may not be a problem, one of my custom actions came without an ejector and once i got used to manually removing brass, i'v removed them from all my guns except a rem 700 .223 AI...bolt will not leg go of brass.
 
If you measure to find your lands and headspace this way then put your ejector and firing pin back in, does the ejector not push the brass forward and now give you contact with the lands and datum that you weren't seeing with it out nullifying what you just measured?

I would think that any potential error would be limited to the amount of headspace off the shoulder of the brass, which is usually only around .001 or .002.
 
If you measure to find your lands and headspace this way then put your ejector and firing pin back in, does the ejector not push the brass forward and now give you contact with the lands and datum that you weren't seeing with it out nullifying what you just measured?

Yes it would, depending on shoulder set back. The firing pin would do the same in a rifle with no ejector. But this is a consistent way to get a bolt face to lands measure ment, if you bump the shoulder .002" just factor that in.
 
So I tried this on a Savage Model 12 LRP 6.5CM. It worked for me... just a quick word of advise to anyone trying it with a savage LRP. Put a small thin piece of tape on the bottom of the bolt over the pin that holds the bolt face in place. Without the firing pin going thru this "bolt pin" it could come loose and fall out just enough where it will get call on the mag frame, follower, or reciever, preventing you from removing the bolt.

I also left out the baffle piece just forward of the bolt handle and it worked great. this method also brought to light another issue in my reloading process.
 
Yes it would, depending on shoulder set back. The firing pin would do the same in a rifle with no ejector. But this is a consistent way to get a bolt face to lands measure ment, if you bump the shoulder .002" just factor that in.

"if you bump the shoulder .002" just factor that in."

Now I'm not so sure I understand. To find the lands you began with a case that had been FL sized to the point where the bolt handles drops freely with zero resistance of the case against the chamber. And I now understand that the lands measurement will change with the firing pin assembly and the ejector re-installed? And further that we have no way of knowing with any degree of certainty how far it has been pushed into the lands?
 
All of the different methods are just a reference point. So, you take your loose case like in the video and find your touch point. That will be your true touch point in a case that fit snug in the chamber. If you run cases that you bump the shoulder .002" on then that bullet will be in the lands .002" with the ejector pushing it or when the firing pin hits. I dont factor that in, I just use the number from the original method as my touch.
 
"if you bump the shoulder .002" just factor that in."

Now I'm not so sure I understand. To find the lands you began with a case that had been FL sized to the point where the bolt handles drops freely with zero resistance of the case against the chamber. And I now understand that the lands measurement will change with the firing pin assembly and the ejector re-installed? And further that we have no way of knowing with any degree of certainty how far it has been pushed into the lands?


Not sure; it was suggested I do it the old fashion way. I do not agree, if reloaders understood the ‘old way; it would not take a months of responses to get to the point.


I determine the length of the chamber first from the shoulder to the bolt face; I can use a fired case. Deterring the length of the chamber is something most can not get their minds around. I do not need a head space gage of a fired case. Fired cases could require a trip to the range. Then there is a time no case exists and that requires forming.


Anyhow, I determine the distance from the lands to the bolt face then use the test case to transfer the dimensions of the chamber to the seating die. I do not find it necessary to take the bolt apart. Then there is bullet hold, I want all the bullet hold I can get. After all I am using the test case as a transfer when adjusting the seating die.


F. Guffey
 
I do not agree, if reloaders understood the ‘old way; it would not take a months of responses to get to the point.

F. Guffy

As often as you tell us all here how you do it, why don't you create your own thread (like Alex did) and put up a video (or pictures) explaining your method !.!.!
Then it wouldn't take "months of responses to get to the point".
After all, video's and/or pictures "speak a 1000 words".

Maybe just me here, but I for one would like to see your methods, because your written descriptions confuse me, and betting pictures and/or video would explain your methods better.

And you wouldn't have to hi-jack others threads, with your opposing methods....
Just a suggestion,
Donovan
 
(like Alex did

It was not my intension to upset you, after all I was told everyone had moved on to more sophisticated methods and techniques. And then I said I disagree. And then you proved my point.



As Koch said to Kirtzmen:

I can explain this to you.

I can not comprehend it for you.
 
It was not my intension to upset you.

You didn't upset me......
And seriously suggesting you do create a thread, describing your method !.!.!
I would really like to see it !.!.!

I do think your hi-jacking this thread repeatedly now, but happens a lot on forums (guilty of it myself).
Donovan
 
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Very good videos and well thought out. You saved a lot of reloaders a lot of headaches and a lot of time and money. I guess it made me feel good i was spot on with exactly how you bump your brass. .002 from touch figure close to .001 with spring back. My ole buddy lynnwood harrel gave me a schooling on the OD sizing of brass. I recommend everyone get a cup of coffee and give lynnwood a call if he ain't busy he'll tell ya about his dasher dies and a few other things. excellent product and no better people. More than likely he will send ya several dies and see which one works best for your chamber and send rest back. Bill
 
I have done that, it never works out on a reloading forum, Seems there is not enough space and or time to convince someone it can be done.

F. Guffey
F. Guffey in case you don't know this is called 6BR. It stands for Bench Rest. In case you don't understand this. It is for precision reloading of cartridges for accuracy. Times and equipment have changed since the 50's and targets have proven it. If your method works for you, FINE.

Just because you don't agree with others.
You should do like Donovan says and show us. Make a video and start your own thread. What ALEX did and showed here is great and will save a lot of people time and money. I read your posts over and over and they all say the same thing. I sometimes don't understand what you are saying or trying to say. Matt
 
thanks for the awesome video and sorry for bumping an old post, but just a quick question.


couldnt you combine this method with marking the bullet with a sharpie, and once the lands marks go away you know your done? that way you dont have to "feel" for the slight click
 
The feel is going to be better than the marker, in my opinion.

Thanks Alex, I watched all your video`s on your web page, must have missed this thread somehow.....:confused:


Phil.
 
Guess I'll add a firing pin removal tool to my order from Sinclair and try this. I am using the Hornady tool on my new "wildcat" and was having some problems finding the lands. Hopefully this will help me.
 

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