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In my case it was due to the firing pin hole just a little too large for the firing pin.
Thank you Laurie for your detailed reply. I was aware of the bolt bushing/pin turning option but had earlier read it in conjunction with just the R-700 bolts/pins. So, saved your links and will look into having this done. I'm shooting this ammunition in because it is extremely accurate, hope to mirror it in my hand loading and for a rifle I am having built. I've fired 100 rounds of it, so can save the brass for my new rifle.Definitely a bolt / firing pin issue then. This is a very common issue with factory rifles and high-performance / pressure cartridges with small primers. If you do a search on the forum / AS site about bolt-bushing work, there is a good size industry in the US gunsmithing trade doing remedial work - turning down the factory pin tip diameter and boring out the bolt face before fitting a bushing with a smaller dia. hole and set up for much closer tolerances. Greg Tannel was an early expert in this field, but there are now many others.
https://www.gretanrifles.com/product-page/bush-firing-pin-hole-turn-pin
Ben Chappell (@Grimstod on the AS Forum) is another who npow does this work and has had excellent reviews from other forum members. Do a search as follows:
https://forum.accurateshooter.com/search/21878/?q=grimstod+bolt+bushing&t=post&o=relevance
Bearing in mind this site was originally 6mmBR.com specialising in this cartridge and its derivatives, literally thousands of words have been written on this issue and rectifying it. In an era when Remington 700 actions and similar were far more commonly used in custom builds for the BRs, bolt-bushing was a near standard step in the build otherwise loads, pressures and MVs often had to be significantly reduced. Whilst the BR and its derivatives was the first modern SRP precision cartridge to go near mainstream, the last 15 years has seen a huge increase here with 6.5X47mm Lapua and now SP brass options on many other traditional LRP numbers such as 308 Win, 243 Win, 260 Rem etc from ADG, Peterson and with the Creedmoors and 308 Win, Lapua offering both types.
I learned the hard way about this when I had a 308 FN Special Police Rifle rebarrelled in the then near new 6.5X47L some 10 or 12 years ago. Primers cratered at every loading level / pressure including Vihtavuori's mild starting loads. Blanking (the correct name for the primer cup failing and blowing a disk out into the bolt) began at starting plus 1gn. Nobody did bolt jobs in the UK at that time (and whilst on offer now are expensive at c. £300 / $400 US) so it was a case of forced rechambering to 260 Rem to return to LRP brass use. Cratering / blanking is FAR less of a problem with LRP cartridges than with their SRP equivalents even at equal pressures.
So the answer in your case is to either have a bushing job done and / or to only buy or load ammunition in LRP brass. That's no great loss in your case as the LRP Creedmoor variant is more widespread and there are some excellent makes in this form including the Lapua LRP version.
Thank you Ned. It is what Berger suggested as well as Laurie here did. I replied to Laurie with a bit more detail. Appreciate your time and help.Another consideration might be the firing pin hole. Too much clearance has also been associated with that type of issue, and the remedy for that can either be as simple using a different primer with a harder/thicker cup, or having the firing pin hole bushed. I think you're starting at a good place by trying to find out of anyone else has observed this issue with the same ammo. Good luck with it.
Hi Texas 10. Yes, my purpose in buying the factory loaded ammunition was to use the brass for reloading and for a rifle I am having built. Prior to this I have been shooting a rifle using and reloading all LRP brass. I started accumulating the SRP Berger loaded ammunition a couple years ago. The brass Berger is using is Lapua.I see no advantage whatsoever in buying factory 6.5 CM ammo with a small primer if you're going to shoot it and not reuse the brass. Large rifle primers rarely pierce, and the main advantage of SRP's in the 6.5 CM is case longevity for hand loading. There's more brass left in the head with a SRP so it's stronger.
I suspect what with the sharp rise in gun purchases over the last months, and component shortages due to hoarding that Berger had to use second tier, less than desirable primers to keep up with ammo demand.
Your handloads will undoubtedly use better components, and your results will be better. What brass are they using? I find the Hornaday LRP brass to be very good and produces a very accurate loads in my 6.5CM.
