Fabricating my own shooting rest, would like some input.

[Road_Clam]

So instead of spending upwards of $200+ i've decided to build my own. I do CNC machining and generall fabrication, so looking to build a basic sturdy rest. It's going to be simple and heavy duty. using 1-1/2" square tube for the legs, 3"x3" round steel center using 1" threaded rod for the vertical adjustment post. My main question is how necessary is windage adjustment ? Im just a recreational bench shooter at this time, and while I could fabricate a windage adjustable type rest, it's a lot of extra work and would rather not if I don't really need it. Last question is what range of height adjustment is normal ? Thanks in advance guys for the help ! I'll be sure to follow up with pics as I make progress. I'm currently fabricating the feet and the main center section as we speak.

 

[jonbearman]

From my table to the top of the threaded area it is 3 3/8ths The spindle(threaded part is 4 inches long and is held into a flat plate by a 5/16-18 screw,the plate is counterbored to recieve the spindle and then it has a counter sunk clearance hole for the retaining screw.The plate is 3/8ths of an inch thick and measures 3" by 5 1/2 inches wide. Then the bag holder is the same dimension with 1/4 inch key stock drilled and tapped for 10/24 screws to use as a bag pinching rail all the way around the perimeter. The spindle has a key way cut 1/4 inch wide top to bottom for your set screw or t-handle screw to adjust it so you dont ruin the htreads. The adjuster that is threaded the same as the spindle is 5 1/2 inches in diameter as has scallops for your fingers to push it either way to adjust up or down.

 

[LHSmith]

Assuming it's for shooting off a solid permanent bench at fixed yardage targets (such as the local club range vs. a rest for live varmint shooting) you can manage windage adjustments just fine by squeezing the rear bag- just make sure it's on the soft side.
For elevation: Farley 5-1/2" min. to 9-1/2" max. / Bald Eagle (Orig. Lock Haven version)- 5-1/2 to 7-1/2"........it really is dependent on club range designs.....some are near level, others require uphill shooting. Some ranges I have to add a 1" spacer under my rear bag.

 

[22BRGUY]

I bought a home made rest a couple of years ago that sounds similar to what you are doing. It's heavy. Then I bought a windage top and played around with that for awhile but couldn't seem to get quite as tight groups with it. My theory is anything that can move, will move upon recoil. Anyway, I went back to just the plain solid rest top and am satisfied with that and better groups. I'm sure some of the better comp shooters with top equipment would disagree, but this is just my experience.
Best Wishes

 

[Road_Clam]

Thanks for the help, I think for the short term i'm going without a complicated windage adjustment. If for some reason I find I need windage I can simply add it later. I'm able to basically build this rest for free with misc scrap pieces I have found laying around our shop. I only need to purchase some threaded knobs for the feet adjustment and the elevation set screw bolt.

 

[Grimstod]

What do you guys think of making up one in cherry? Its a relatively hard wood. Would it work?

 

[dkhunt14]

You should look at somebodys rest that has a double rise like a hart. Then you can make it a little lower and have plenty of rise. Matt

 

[dkhunt14]

I agree with 22 br guy. If it can move at all, recoil will make it move. I stood beside guys on the firing line and watched rests move upon firing. I am sure it affected there 1000 yard groups. When I started 1000 yard benchrest I started with a Hart with 3/4x8 threaded rod, then I bought the 1x8 threaded rod and riser and then I built my own with 1 3/4x8 threaded stem. Each time I went bigger with the stem my group aggregates got smaller. That was both classes heavy and light. Matt

 

[Road_Clam]

Well making some good progress. I have the main body fabricated. I used a 3"x3" piece of 4140 steel then drilled and reamed to 1.00" for a nice smooth slip fit for the 1"-8 threaded rod. I milled a .500" slot on the rod to allow a 1/2-13" thumb screw to lock the vertical postition after adjustment.



Here's a pic of the legs and the feet. The legs are 1-1/2" sq tube. and the feet are 2" dia tapped for 1/2-13" rod which will be used for leveling adjustment. I plan on drilling a through hole, and welding a 1/2" nut on the top of the legs for the feet.




So a few more steps then it time to start welding. I just got my Caldwell med sand bag rest, so now I can move to fabricating the top portion of the rest.

 

[22BRGUY]

Looks very much like the one I mentioned...nice job!

 

[Road_Clam]

About 90% finished. I came up with a neat solution for the leveling bolts. I wanted heavy duty 1/2-13 bolts, but almost nobody makes knobs for 1/2-13 so I ended up using carriage bolts, machining the ends, then I added a knurled surface. I need a jam nut to rigidly lock the bag cradle to the threaded shaft, and then a nice coat of paint to finalize. Weighs about 17 lbs. Should work excellent. Heavy duty and simple I think. Price was right, cost me $19 (only incoured cost was the sand bag)

 

[butchlambert]

<McMaster Carr has pages of knobs.

 

[LHSmith]

Sinclair has much better bags.......nice job though.

 

[Grimstod]

Very nice work road clam. I see your the words best Dad too.