Can't remember the last time I had to extract a loaded round at a match. My least worry in the world with a 284. Split the difference with 260AI. Shot one last couple years. Shooting a 284 now. At midrange You will be the difference. HAVE seen many matches where it is impossible to beat a great shooting 6mm.
F-Open Cartridge Selection for new guy?
- Thread starter drop_point
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- .284 6mm dasher f-open mid-range prs
Jdne5b
Gold $$ Contributor
You just missed the deal of the month.
SOLD - Panda / Cerus F-Open Gun - $2600
Kelbly Panda F-Class Action - Right Bolt, Right Port, TG Ejector, 20MOA Dovetail, (308 bolt face for 6mmbr, 284, etc) Kelbly 30mm Dovetail Rings Cerus Rifleworks stock with 6 Way adjustable Butt plate (machined to accept a RAD 2A, but not included) Inletting, Bedding and clear coat done by...
forum.accurateshooter.com
Maybe even deal of a lifetime , !!!
Boatschool02
Silver $$ Contributor
In these component challenged times, I would go for a known quantity. By the time a straight 284 with 180 hybrids is holding you back, you won't need anyone else's opinion. It's the sweet spot for so many factors in F-class, for so many reasons, unless you can handle the recoil of a big 30.
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IMHO, there's no need for a long action. Extracting a loaded round, once every almost never, is a NON-issue.
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Putting together a top fuel eliminator, cost no object F-class rig is an art, and yet the best work horse systems are likely to look simple to the untrained eye. What matters is the minute details and the synergy across your entire process. Best to decide right away if you're doing this for fun or competition, or you run the risk of buying 2-3x before getting it right. If fun, bring whatever you've got, get out EVERY chance you get. Great folks who'll bend over backwards to welcome and help you. If serious competition, I recommend you start thinking in terms of barrels & bullets per jug(s) of powder, etc, as the talent pool has unlimited time and pockets. If going that route, I'd hit up a couple state and/or national level champions and try to understand why they've settled on the gear/components they're using. At that level, the gear is necessary but NOT sufficient... It's the hard work, the development, the wind/mirage reading, and the sport psychology.
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IMHO, there's no need for a long action. Extracting a loaded round, once every almost never, is a NON-issue.
-
Putting together a top fuel eliminator, cost no object F-class rig is an art, and yet the best work horse systems are likely to look simple to the untrained eye. What matters is the minute details and the synergy across your entire process. Best to decide right away if you're doing this for fun or competition, or you run the risk of buying 2-3x before getting it right. If fun, bring whatever you've got, get out EVERY chance you get. Great folks who'll bend over backwards to welcome and help you. If serious competition, I recommend you start thinking in terms of barrels & bullets per jug(s) of powder, etc, as the talent pool has unlimited time and pockets. If going that route, I'd hit up a couple state and/or national level champions and try to understand why they've settled on the gear/components they're using. At that level, the gear is necessary but NOT sufficient... It's the hard work, the development, the wind/mirage reading, and the sport psychology.
Shoot at Camp Perry when a boat wanders into the impact area and you WILL have to remove a live round from the rifle.
Hello,
New here on AS. I'm here to learn about F Class and expand my bubble.
For what its worth...
I'm in the same boat as you. Im looking to get into F class and decided on open. Ive spent the past year studying and waiting for the right time (financially) to build a rifle. Its embarrassing how many hours I've spent reading and watching...
Right or wrong I'm following Erik Cortina's advice. I agree with is logic, process, and opinion.
Time and time again the message has been consistent. buy a 284 and buy all the right stuff the first time. It applies to both mid and long range. Obviously, budget will be different for everyone and an important factor.
Good luck!
-D
New here on AS. I'm here to learn about F Class and expand my bubble.
For what its worth...
I'm in the same boat as you. Im looking to get into F class and decided on open. Ive spent the past year studying and waiting for the right time (financially) to build a rifle. Its embarrassing how many hours I've spent reading and watching...
Right or wrong I'm following Erik Cortina's advice. I agree with is logic, process, and opinion.
Time and time again the message has been consistent. buy a 284 and buy all the right stuff the first time. It applies to both mid and long range. Obviously, budget will be different for everyone and an important factor.
Good luck!
-D
Warren Dean
Team Savage F-TR
pat fulghum
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Maybe I priced it too low??? I thought 68% of new was fair.
and just shoot the straight 284. Learn to tune a rifle and read the wind.
68% is very fair and generous of you imo, here in OZ it’s a bargain..
I would say go with what you have the most reloading components on hand No need to build something you don’t have or can’t get bullets, powder etc. for. But what do I know I shoot 600 and 1k matches with a 16” barrel 6BrX
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Alexander-M
Gold $$ Contributor
I started F-Class, F-T/R when I was 68, and attained High Master Mid-Range in less than two years. I also shot three Long Range matches and realized that it would be very challenging to learn the wind to earn the High Master classification ‘in my lifetime’. Therefore, I switched to F-Open using the very popular .284 Win.
I soon attained Master Long Range, and although I have shot many HM scores, including 60-round matches, the HM classification still eludes me; just not enough 600 HM matches back-to-back. I’ll be 76 in a few days, will continue pursuing the HM Long Range classification, and plan to do so as long so I am physically able.
A couple of years ago I built a 6mmBRA rifle (*). I planned to use the 6mmBRA at 600 yards, the 284W at 1000 yards AND the 284 also at 600 when it is windy (**). So far, this strategy has worked fine for me. I have shot several cleans at 600 yards with the 284W, but more so with the 6mmBRA - including a Club-record 200-20X. Although I have yet to shoot a clean 200 at 1000 yards, I have missed that mark by one point, 199s including one 199-15X, several times, and these have been misses by a 1/16” on several occasions.
My recommendation, as others have mentioned above:
Start with the 284W with a 308-bolt face so you can also have a 6mm barrel machined for it later on if you want.
(*) I opted for the 6mmBRA instead of the Dasher because I believe it is easier to form the 6mmBRA brass than the Dasher. In my opinion and experience, at 600 yards the 6mmBRA is just as capable as the Dasher.
(**) Windy? Not so much the wind speed, but the changes. If it is a steady 5 mph or so, the 6mmBRA will be fine. But if it switching as from 10-o’clock to 2-o’clock, then I will use the 284W. The 284W is more forgiving in the wind.
I have never tried my 6mmBRA at 1000 yards.
Good luck!
Alex
PS. Shooting the 6mmBRA is like shooting a 223 recoil-wise. That having been said, I have never minded the 284W recoil.
I soon attained Master Long Range, and although I have shot many HM scores, including 60-round matches, the HM classification still eludes me; just not enough 600 HM matches back-to-back. I’ll be 76 in a few days, will continue pursuing the HM Long Range classification, and plan to do so as long so I am physically able.
A couple of years ago I built a 6mmBRA rifle (*). I planned to use the 6mmBRA at 600 yards, the 284W at 1000 yards AND the 284 also at 600 when it is windy (**). So far, this strategy has worked fine for me. I have shot several cleans at 600 yards with the 284W, but more so with the 6mmBRA - including a Club-record 200-20X. Although I have yet to shoot a clean 200 at 1000 yards, I have missed that mark by one point, 199s including one 199-15X, several times, and these have been misses by a 1/16” on several occasions.
My recommendation, as others have mentioned above:
Start with the 284W with a 308-bolt face so you can also have a 6mm barrel machined for it later on if you want.
(*) I opted for the 6mmBRA instead of the Dasher because I believe it is easier to form the 6mmBRA brass than the Dasher. In my opinion and experience, at 600 yards the 6mmBRA is just as capable as the Dasher.
(**) Windy? Not so much the wind speed, but the changes. If it is a steady 5 mph or so, the 6mmBRA will be fine. But if it switching as from 10-o’clock to 2-o’clock, then I will use the 284W. The 284W is more forgiving in the wind.
I have never tried my 6mmBRA at 1000 yards.
Good luck!
Alex
PS. Shooting the 6mmBRA is like shooting a 223 recoil-wise. That having been said, I have never minded the 284W recoil.
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drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
So I think what I'll do is start with F-T/R. I can use my PRS rifle and just get a .308 barrel spun. I was looking through my things and I have 1000 or more matching lot 175 gr SMKs laying around as well as 400 new pieces of Lapua .308 brass. I've also got at least 16 lbs of matching lot Varget. That should give me enough time to get my feet wet for a season or so. In the meantime, I can gather up the parts to build a dedicated rifle with a 6mm of some flavor and a .284 barrel. Hopefully by then, components will be more available and it won't be a problem.
Reading through, I do like the idea of the BRA cartridge to keep component cost low and ease of forming and keeping a .284 Win for the windy days and the rare occasions I would get to 1,000 yards.
Reading through, I do like the idea of the BRA cartridge to keep component cost low and ease of forming and keeping a .284 Win for the windy days and the rare occasions I would get to 1,000 yards.
dthomas
Gold $$ Contributor
I use a short action on my f open rifle in 284. I do have to remove the bolt to unload a live round it isn't a big deal, in 3 years of shooting i have only had to do it twice and it was because i let the round sit in a hot chamber too long because of a wind change between the time i closed the bolt and was ready to shoot.
Short action + 284 pulling a loaded round is a non issue. Do it all the time.
@tylerw02 if you think you may ever wanna get serious and travel to some bigger matches or longer ranges build a 284/variant. If you just want to have fun, shoot the mouse fart guns.
FTR isn't much cheaper than Fopen at the end of the day....you might save a few hundred up front buying a Joy pod vs a Mini or NEO. Pretty much after that its all a wash IMO.
@tylerw02 if you think you may ever wanna get serious and travel to some bigger matches or longer ranges build a 284/variant. If you just want to have fun, shoot the mouse fart guns.
FTR isn't much cheaper than Fopen at the end of the day....you might save a few hundred up front buying a Joy pod vs a Mini or NEO. Pretty much after that its all a wash IMO.
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
Main thing is I can start with the PRS rifle I have now with simply a barrel change while I save up for the components for a dedicated Open rifle. It'll be easy and I can start shooting sooner that way.
Absolutely, I think you have a great plan!
If at 600 most of the time in club matches, go with 6mm (Dasher is popular and now has brass). 6mm rules midrange. If you have an inkling you want to shoot 1000 yards, go .284 (Strait or Shehane) You will be happy with either for either range. I am on my second strait .284 and have not been disappointed, but I feel that the Dashers do better at mid range on average.
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