excessive cock on close, **updated/resolved**

[Tim Singleton]

@Florida Wally Ha! I watched that video before posting here and thought, awesome! same thing with mine, but it kinda looks like he irons it out with a sear adjustment...possibly. I tried doing that with my shilen BR trigger and did not find success. after watching it again he manipulates the bolt faster so its hard to tell. but even after the sear adjustment right at the 2:46 mark, it looks like it still does the same thing mine is doing. If all is well, ill at least have some peace of mind.

It really doesnt feel that bad once its in the stock

 

[Alex Wheeler]

The easiest way to measure cock on close accurately is at the front of the action. Bring the bolt handle down until the trigger catches the cocking piece, measure from the action face to bolt face. Then fully close the bolt and measure again. Its harder to do at the shroud end because on a threaded shroud its backing up as you close the bolt and if you dont take that into account you will think you have less than you do. Also remember, the cocking piece is not moving back the bolt is moving forward with cock on close. I no longer time Kelbly actions, but I have timed a lot of them over the years and know their design inside and out.

 

[jackieschmidt]

The most notorious custom actions suffering from lack of sufficient firing pin travel were the first generation Farleys, Of which I have two.

They also have way too light of firing spring pressure.

This could be fixed, but due to the rather shallow cocking helix, you had to settle for cock on close.

I did this by offset bushing the hanger, moving it back the required amount to get at least .230 inch fall.

some twenty years ago one of my good friends got a brand new rifle built on a Farley. It was slick. It was smooth. You could effortlessly flip that bolt open, and closed.

It would not shoot worth a sh-t.

We took it to my shop, offset bushed the hanger to move the trigger back, and made a spacer to shim the firing pin spring.

It ended up with .240 inch pin travel and 24 pounds of static spring pressure.

Now granted, you could no longer just flip that bolt open, and it had considerable cock on close.

The first group he shot with it upon returning to the range was about a .080.

Granted, there might have been a better way to cure it’s ills, but he loved it.

 

[Kevin1990]

action made it to kelblys yesterday, and got a notification that it will be back to me on Friday. No phone call or anything. So I imagine it was completely fine. Perhaps there’s an explanation in the box, but I’ll give em a shout tomorrow.

 

[Kevin1990]

Action back in hand. That was quick! Kelblys note says “nothing wrong with action or bolt. Tested on Triggertech primary. Firing pin has .250 of fall. Timing of the firing pin is correct to TT’s own instructions on their website.“

“Installed .030” longer fall hanger to make it engage the trigger faster. Customer may like this more. Sending original hanger back in bag.”

Thanks for all the reply’s everyone. Much appreciated!

Well...nothing left to do now but get a barrel, and chassis and go shoot.

 

[AlNyhus]

So....how does it feel with the new hanger?

 

[Kevin1990]

So....how does it feel with the new hanger?

Honestly? About the same. Perhaps a little better. Little less downward force is needed. I’m just used to my Kauger and Defiance actions. Even my Tikka and a rem 700 don’t feel like this one, but I think once I get the chassis it’ll be much better.

 

[BoydAllen]

again forgive my stupidity but when i look down into the action it does appear I get resistance right at the point of engagement of the lugs contacting the raceway. thats when I need to give it pressure to get over that little hump and then continue the pressure as it closes

That initial pressure that you feel just as you start to turn the handle down is caused by the depth of the detent that is just past (in rotation) the top of the cocking cam. In the past, without changing the shape or locaton of the detent people who want to have less effort closing at that point have carefully lowered the area between the detent and the start of the cam. The purpose of the detent is to keep the cocking piece and shroud properly indexed as the bolt is opened and closed. You need some, but may be just fine if you reduce the amount that the cocking piece has to back up as you start to close the bolt.

 

[Pete Wass]

I have done as suggested on my actions that needed it for years and it does help, just don't get carried away