Don't laugh... Best printer and paper for printing targets?

[rardoin]

I use a Brother 5720 InkJet with 65# cardstock. Works like a charm.

 

[memilanuk]

Yeah... saw that. I wasn't sure; their definition of bond weight seemed odd (17x22 vs 8.5x11) but in retrospect it makes sense

 

[Comrade Terry]

Yeah... saw that. I wasn't sure; their definition of bond weight seemed odd (17x22 vs 8.5x11) but in retrospect it makes sense

I should add that the paper feeds just fine through my laser printer.

 

[SS427]

I do like Boyd does and design targets around the reticle I'm using. A one inch black circle with a white cross on it the same width as the cross hair makes a very precise aiming point. Using MS Word or Publisher, I can duplicate any target. I like to use check boxes and record information directly on the target. Three hole punch them and they become my log book for each rifle and barrel.

I print on card stock using an HP printer. We signed up for the HP print cartridge program and I can print 50 pages a month and it costs $2.99. So far we have never printed more than 50 pages in one month, but if you do they have a tier approach to the cost so you would pay a little more.

 

[SheepDog]

I use construction paper. It comes in 17 x 22 inch sheets which I cut to 8.5 x 11 and get four target pages per sheet.
It has characteristics that are much the same as the NRA targets but is a printable size. The large sheets are sold in bulk and cost very little to print. I have drawn all my own targets in Word or on my CAD program so I have targets that suit my needs for less than $0.10 each.

 

[hunter243sgk]

I like card stock paper for printing targets on. It's a heavier weight paper. I just use my hp ink jet printer. The free downloadable targets on this sight are great. There is one that is a double, with a one inch grid pattern thats my favorite for 100yd groups.

Matt

I got the same printer and do the same as you. it works for me to!

 

[TAJ45]

I do like Boyd does and design targets around the reticle I'm using. A one inch black circle with a white cross on it the same width as the cross hair makes a very precise aiming point. Using MS Word or Publisher, I can duplicate any target. I like to use check boxes and record information directly on the target. Three hole punch them and they become my log book for each rifle and barrel.

I print on card stock using an HP printer. We signed up for the HP print cartridge program and I can print 50 pages a month and it costs $2.99. So far we have never printed more than 50 pages in one month, but if you do they have a tier approach to the cost so you would pay a little more.

I got the same printer and do the same as you. it works for me to!

One thing to remember, long grain which is usually found in the heavier more expensive copy paper does not tear as cleanly b/ c of the longer grains. Thus using a target backer, such as an NRA tgt will give cleaner holes, as has been suggested.

 

[MGYSGT]

I use regular white paper. I stick Shoot and See targets to them. They are not all that expensive for the small ones (2 and 3 inch) for 200 and 300 yards. For 100 yard I use orange dots. Either the ones off of the shoot and see or the packaged ones that come 500 in a bunch. I don't need anything bigger, because our range only goes to 300 yards.

 

[ragsflh]

i can print from phone to printer in houselol.i use cheap targets stapled

 

[jepp2]

I do like Boyd does and design targets around the reticle I'm using. A one inch black circle with a white cross on it the same width as the cross hair makes a very precise aiming point.

Similar here. I created a target with a doughnut where my 1/8 min dot fills perfectly at 100 meters (use the drawing tools of MS Word). I use labels made from 110 lb. cardstock for my load labels. I just tape them to my targets before I scan them in. I keep all my records electronically on my NAS. I tried the cardstock for targets, but like the 24 lb. bond better on the measuring the group spread.

 

[divingin]

One other option, once you've decided on paper, is to create your own aim point using stickers (which can be bought on Amazon for not much money.) I use a red 2" square and a white 1" dot. On an International Rapid Fire pistol target (21" x 24") I generally put 16 or 20 of these on a sheet.

 

[T-shooter]

Not printed, but I use full size posterboard. About .35 a sheet if bought in quantity. And then use adhesive targets, usually 1" dots. Simple, quick, and heavy enough the wind doesn't rip them off.

 

[rkittine]

I like using 80 pound matt photo paper. I have a 24" wide 12 color printer and can print any length up to 100" from roll paper, which is less expensive then buying cut sheers. I have a roll paper feeder on my printer. Paper weights are set based on the number of pounds in a true ream of paper, which is 432,000 square inches or 500 sheets of 24" x 36". A supposed ream of copier paper (20 pound) is not based on 500 sheets of 8.5x11 as evidenced by a pack of copier paper not weighing any where near 20 pounds.

I take a picture of a target that I like, resize it to fit the paper that I want to print it on depending on what yardage I expect to shoot and then print the picture.

Bob

 

[memilanuk]

A supposed ream of copier paper (20 pound) is not based on 500 sheets of 8.5x11 as evidenced by a pack of copier paper not weighing any where near 20 pounds.

Huh. So its kinda like dimensional lumber and plywood at the big box stores? i.e. 2x board = 1-5/8", "3/4" ply = ~21 (23 if you're lucky) /32"

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

IMHO, the best and most cost effective paper targets are the ones available from the sanctioning bodies. I don't know how to beat the combined features of the paper and it being the real thing, for practice. All told, you can very likely buy them from your local match director for about the same or less than the cost of making your own. Of course there are printing cost variables, if you do it yourself. You may be able to save a penny or so but we're splitting frog hairs when using only the cost vs the cost/benefit of using the real thing.