Do it yourself Stock making thread

[hoz53]

OK-- Im going to make a copy of the print and then cut it out and trace it on the plywood like you say to make a template. The plate on the rear sounds like a great idea. Do I need a bandsaw to cut the stock out of the blank once i trace it on there?

That Delta contractor saw sure cuts square. You set that fence and lock it down and you dont have to measure to the blade front and back-- one measurement and you know its good. Some of that made in US stuff I miss. That spot is the inspectors mark --They all have that Took the clamps off my blank and squared it up a little today. It is 6-1/4 x 37 -- might have some knot issues we will see. it stold my picture Thanks

 

[joshb]

A quality jigsaw with a good blade will work. I highly recommend the Bosch T101B. It's the slow way to do it, though. A band saw is better if you need an excuse to buy one.
Deal with the knot issue by flipping your pattern around on your blank. The pattern has a few extra inches of length in the butt. I think I made a reference mark for a 13 inch pull. (Pull being the distance from the trigger to the end of the stock.) That length can be set to your personal preference, of course. Decide on your length of pull, subtract your butt plate or recoil pad thickness and that is the shortest length of your butt when marking your blank. When you have the pattern located on the blank, you have more to do before you cut the profile.

Locate and drill action screw holes.
Cut barrel channel.
Inlet action.
Bed action.
Inlet bottom metal.

THEN, we'll cut the full profile.

This procedure has an advantage. If you really screw up your barrel channel or action inlet, you can flip your blank over and use the other side as a fall back.

 

[hoz53]

A quality jigsaw with a good blade will work. I highly recommend the Bosch T101B. It's the slow way to do it, though. A band saw is better if you need an excuse to buy one.
Deal with the knot issue by flipping your pattern around on your blank. The pattern has a few extra inches of length in the butt. I think I made a reference mark for a 13 inch pull. (Pull being the distance from the trigger to the end of the stock.) That length can be set to your personal preference, of course. Decide on your length of pull, subtract your butt plate or recoil pad thickness and that is the shortest length of your butt when marking your blank. When you have the pattern located on the blank, you have more to do before you cut the profile.

Locate and drill action screw holes.
Cut barrel channel.
Inlet action.
Bed action.
Inlet bottom metal.

THEN, we'll cut the full profile.

This procedure has an advantage. If you really screw up your barrel channel or action inlet, you can flip your blank over and use the other side as a fall back.

OK Ill see about the bandsaw What is the overall length of your stock? Im going to make this single shot without bottom metal. Ive got to buy some of those cutter bits before we inlet I bet. ill work on that. Thanks Kim

 

[ebb]

Josh the patterns came today. Thank you very much for sharing! You must have spent some money printing and mailing them out. Let me know how I can compensate you for at least your out of pocket expenses. They are great!!!

 

[joshb]

On the bandsaw: A good jig saw with a good, sharp blade will do the job but a band saw is a pleasure to have. You don't need a big one, either.

I make my stocks 34-36" long. I made one to 38"-40" to try. I figured I could easily cut it down if I don't like it but so far, I do. The original master Sporter stocks are 30".




With no bottom metal, you won't need as many bit's. Read my earlier post on the bits.
The 15 degree with bearing, the 1/2" radius with bearing, the 1" core box and a "longer" 1/4" cutter should do it. The 1 1/4" core box is useful for doing a Remington action but the 1" will work. Eagle America is where I get mine. I think they're the outfit that will make a custom core box bit to any size. I thought about having one made to match the Remington action but they want $150 to make it.

Thanks "ebb". My payment will be pics of your finished stocks and happy faces. I'm doing this to give back to the forum. If you're feeling flush, make a small donation and become a "site contributor". Jay will put it to good use.

 

[rckendall]

Josh, I received my patterns yesterday as well. Thank you very much for sharing this will all of us! I won't be able to get started for at least a couple weeks yet, but I will follow along every day.

Thanks again,
Richard

 

[hoz53]

On the bandsaw: A good jig saw with a good, sharp blade will do the job but a band saw is a pleasure to have. You don't need a big one, either.

I make my stocks 34-36" long. I made one to 38"-40" to try. I figured I could easily cut it down if I don't like it but so far, I do. The original master Sporter stocks are 30".
View attachment 1006767
View attachment 1006766


With no bottom metal, you won't need as many bit's. Read my earlier post on the bits.
The 15 degree with bearing, the 1/2" radius with bearing, the 1" core box and a "longer" 1/4" cutter should do it. The 1 1/4" core box is useful for doing a Remington action but the 1" will work. Eagle America is where I get mine. I think they're the outfit that will make a custom core box bit to any size. I thought about having one made to match the Remington action but they want $150 to make it.

Thanks "ebb". My payment will be pics of your finished stocks and happy faces. I'm doing this to give back to the forum. If you're feeling flush, make a small donation and become a "site contributor". Jay will put it to good use.

How did you know I was thinking of buying a bandsaw? Youre a mind reader to
Was thinking about a 14" bandsaw but I could use one of the horizontal/vertical ones to cut steel most of all. Anyway got this cheap little bandsaw for CC points quite some time ago. Never used it so decided I would try and get a little use out of it. It will cut 2-1/4 of hackberry no prob so Im gonna try and use it for this project. I to thought about a core box bit for a remington. Not gonna pay 150 for one dont think
either. How about a 13/8 core box. Prob only .015 over a rem action dia. Whatdya think? Im gonna use a R700 for this project. Thanks Again Kim H

PS Blank is ready but I have 100 projects at least so im in no hurry.

 

[joshb]

That's perfect! It's the man behind the tool more than the tool. 20 or so years ago, I got ahold of a cheap bandsaw somebody was throwing out. Pot metal Chinese piece of crap. I tried to get it to work, gave up and pushed it into a corner. A friend comes over looking for some wood to do a new project and sees it. He takes it home. A month later, he gives me this puzzle he made with it.

To this day, I still can't figure out how he did it. The guy hadn't made anything out of wood before this.

 

[Ggmac]

Well , it's obvious , that saw couldn't cut a straight line .

 

[joshb]

Good one, Gary.
Kim: I searched long and hard. Nobody makes 1 3/8 that I could find. The work around is 1 1/4 with an eighth inch gap between your router base and your guides.

 

[Nvreloader]

I LOVE that Fish puzzle, I wonder were to find the build plans??

Tia,
Don

 

[hoz53]

Good one, Gary.
Kim: I searched long and hard. Nobody makes 1 3/8 that I could find. The work around is 1 1/4 with an eight gap.

I hate to be the one to rat out ur neighbor but he purchased the fish at the flea market This little bandsaw I got cuts pretty good. Im surprised. Wats an 8 gap?

 

[joshb]

Fixed it. I picked up a "bug" somewhere. I had to "go" . My head is filled with pea soup. I think it's the flu.
ur not ratting him out. I'm fairly sure that's where he got the idea. He was going to do an upscale version to try to sell at high end gift shops.

 

[ebb]

I have a friend that cuts for Remington inlet on a drill mill. He uses an 1 1/4 core box and makes two passes off center by 1/16 of an inch.

 

[hoz53]

Fixed it. I picked up a "bug" somewhere. I had to "go" . My head is filled with pea soup. I think it's the flu.
ur not ratting him out. I'm fairly sure that's where he got the idea. He was going to do an upscale version to try to sell at high end gift shops.

hope youre feeling better. I think Im coming down with something to.

 

[hoz53]

I have a friend that cuts for Remington inlet on a drill mill. He uses an 1 1/4 core box and makes two passes off center by 1/16 of an inch.

Thanks thats just what I was planning to do and I wondered how that would work just moving the cutter over a little. I will get a 1 1/4 core box and try it on some scrap.

also the nice thing about the 11/4 bit would be if your using a strait taper barrel you can cut the cannel and be all set just cut the action area a little bigger.

 

[joshb]

I LOVE that Fish puzzle, I wonder were to find the build plans??

Tia,
Don

Rumor has it, you can get one at a flea market. Bet you could reverse engineer it from there.

 

[hoz53]

Good one, Gary.
Kim: I searched long and hard. Nobody makes 1 3/8 that I could find. The work around is 1 1/4 with an eighth inch gap between your router base and your guides.

Thanks for the search. OIC. So you are moving the bit 1/8 off center each way.

 

[joshb]

I did that search for my first one, a year or two ago. 1/8"- total. 1/16 each side of center. The cut you get isn't round, like the action but close enough. Your bedding compound fills the voids. I cut everything a little tight and test fit my barreled action before I move my guides. If the fit is too tight, you move both guides out a "red hair" ,cut again and test fit. Repeat as necessary until the fit suits you. Your blank stays clamped in the jigs until yer done.
This is a good time to give an overview of this, as I'm just sitting here trying to shake this bug. Getting the concept in your head helps.
I cut my barrel channel first. I want to free float it, so I want a gap between my stock and barrel. How much is your choice. I like a good air flow around my barrel so I go for an eighth inch at least. Since I'm not held to any exact width, this is where I determine how "off" my router base is to the center of my cut. (First timers should probably use a 2X4 as a test piece) My Bosch router has a 6" base. I install my 1 inch core box bit in it. I mark the center of my blank, then Mark 3" to each side of center at both ends of my jig and clamp my straight edges to those marks. I set my cutter depth to a 1/4" or so and make a first cut, the length of my barrel channel. My Bosch is a D handle and I always cut from right to left with the D handle on the right. You want to use the same orientation of your base to your guides for every cut and you want to know how much, if any, your base is off center. I measure from the edge of my cut to my guides. This tells me my base is off by 1/16". I adjust for that in all my measurements, moving forward. With that info, I can expand the width and depth of my channel to my preferences, accurately.
Then, I do my final action cuts for width and length.
More to come.

 

[hoz53]

I did that search for my first one, a year or two ago. 1/8"- total. 1/16 each side of center. The cut you get isn't round, like the action but close enough. Your bedding compound fills the voids. I cut everything a little tight and test fit my barreled action before I move my guides. If the fit is too tight, you move both guides out a "red hair" ,cut again and test fit. Repeat as necessary until the fit suits you. Your blank stays clamped in the jigs until yer done.
This is a good time to give an overview of this, as I'm just sitting here trying to shake this bug. Getting the concept in your head helps.
I cut my barrel channel first. I want to free float it, so I want a gap between my stock and barrel. How much is your choice. I like a good air flow around my barrel so I go for an eighth inch at least. Since I'm not held to any exact width, this is where I determine how "off" my router base is to the center of my cut. (First timers should probably use a 2X4 as a test piece) My Bosch router has a 6" base. I install my 1 inch core box bit in it. I mark the center of my blank, then Mark 3" to each side of center at both ends of my jig and clamp my straight edges to those marks. I set my cutter depth to a 1/4" or so and make a first cut, the length of my barrel channel. My Bosch is a D handle and I always cut from right to left with the D handle on the right. You want to use the same orientation of your base to your guides for every cut and you want to know how much, if any, your base is off center. I measure from the edge of my cut to my guides. This tells me my base is off by 1/16". I adjust for that in all my measurements, moving forward. With that info, I can expand the width and depth of my channel to my preferences, accurately.
Then, I do my final action cuts for width and length.
More to come.

Ok and thank you for all that. So you do the barrel channel with what ever size core box you want then put another core box in sized for the action and do that part? I will order some bits soon. and ill sure try some practice runs