Do it yourself Stock making thread

[Nvreloader]

JoshB

Thank you,
That is slicker than snot on a brass door knob!!!!!!!!!!!

I can feel a couple of XP rear grip stocks showing real soon.........

Question,
Will the router remove the bedding material, such as down in the mag well etc.

Any thing we should be aware of??????????

Tia,
Don

 

[rckendall]

Josh,
I have been using West System epoxy off and on since 1974 and in those days we even used asbestos for the bonding filler material. Things have changed over the years and I only have 407 filler on hand these days. You have mentioned using West System for bedding a couple times now and I have to ask what is the filler material that you use? I recently bought Devcon 10110 for bedding but I feel like I'm missing out on something.

Thanks
Richard

 

[joshb]

OK. Two good questions. When I did my first stock, I used the West system because I had a lot left over from my previous hobby: boat building. When I geared up for my first run of eight stocks, I bought some Devcon Steel compound. I quickly realized (doh!) that the steel filling in it would dull my bits, so I bought a Dremel and used it to clean up the Devcon. Next time, I'll get the aluminum fill. Since I still have tons of the West, I'll be using it for this run. I use the 407 filler for two reasons. The low density 407 mix is harder than the Walnut I'm using and is very close to the color of Walnut when cured. Maybe I'm wrong on this but I don't see it being "too weak" to use. I've taken a hammer to some cured leftovers and it's pretty tough stuff. I have a tip. I found some small plastic medicine measuring cups at a whole saler. They're great for mixing small batches. 15 mils does an action and pillars.I thicken with the 407 until I get "peanut butter" consistency.

I first mentioned the West System because they sell small "repair packs" for cheap. After doing some research, I see they sell small tubes of the Devcon. I just didn't want a guy to buy $50 of Devcon for one stock.

 

[joshb]

I let my bedded pillars sit overnight and pulled the action this morning. I had also put some beads of bedding compound at some points on the action so It will lock into the same location when I finish the bedding.

With my pillars set, I can do the bottom metal cut. I lay my blank on it's side, measure the bottom of my barrel channel/top of pillars. Having recorded the length of my pillars, I mark that distance on my screw center lines and draw a line thru the marks.

Then I flip my stock bottom up and sand my bottom metal area with 120 grit to smooth it out. With a nice, smooth surface, I Mark my screw centers and blank center. I lay my bottom metal template on my marks and trace the profile onto my blank. Notice I beveled the edge of my template to aid getting to center.


Now I take my blank to my drill press. This bottom metal's rounded ends match a 3/4 hole at one end and an 18mm at the other. I center the 3/4 and drill my first hole (I've found it best, given the "accuracy" of my equipment and the depth of this inlet, to make my inlet a little long so I drill my end holes 1/16 off center.) I set my depth to 1/8" short of hitting my pillar using the marks I drew on the side of my blank. Maintaining that depth, I drill more holes to remove material. Then I chuck my 18mm bit and do the same procedure from the grip end of my inlet. I try to "just touch" my pillar with my bit at this end. Be extra careful not to drill into the pillar, just tickle it.

 

[joshb]

I take my blank back to my work table and clamp it into my jig, flush to the top.

Then I clamp my template to my jig on my centered marks.

I need to take a moment to plug a good tool. This Makita variable speed small base router I just bought is nice and accurate. I don't know how I put up with the Porter Cable laminate trimmers for so long.
I use two bits to cut my inlet. A short 5/8 bearing bit and a long 1/2" bearing bit. I start with the short bit and cut as deep as I can and then switch to the long bit. After I cut as deep as I can with the long bit, I remove the template and let the bearing ride on the cut surface of the inlet. I only cut about 1/16-1/8" at a time. These small routers and long bit's can easily get away from you if you push them too hard.


Check your depth carefully when you get close to your front pillar height. Again, I cut down until I just tickle my pillar and(with this bottom metal) cut that depth to as close to the rear pillar as the router will allow. You have to break out your chisel now and finish the last 1/2-3/4" of the inlet cut that the router can't reach.

Use your bottom metal to test to fit and a flashlight to see how well you hit center on your pillars. I've been known to recut a side of my inlet by reclamping my template a little left or right of center. One of the main reasons that this is a great design for beginners. You need a flashlight to see any gaps. With a little practice on a few more stocks, you can get it perfect.

 

[joshb]

Since my bottom metal fit "perfectly", I pulled my blank and layed it on it's side. I layed my bottom metal on it and aligned it on my pillar end line and screw centers. I then trace the inside of my trigger guard, then add about an 1/8" to that. I want to leave a little extra material for the router cut.

I move to my bandsaw and cut out the trigger area and the last of my forend profile.



I take my bottom metal and wrap the trigger guard with a layer of painters tape to protect it from scuffing from my router bearing. Then I put the barreled action and bottom metal in the stock and screw it together. I chuck up a 1/2 bottom bearing bit and carefully adjust the height of the bearing so that it rides on my trigger guard. You only have about 1/16" of metal on either side of the trigger location so be exact. I then route the area, slowly and carefully.


That done, I pull the gun apart and get ready for the fun part. The grip and butt.

 

[Mulligan]

Tag

 

[joshb]

Ok, I have to back up a little. I hit the shop this morning and realized I forgot something. The ejection port, and rear action cuts. It's easier to to this with a long flat blank surface. I put my action back in the stock, made some location marks and measured my depths. You can cut these any 6 different ways. You can expose more or less of your action as you see fit. This is just to my tastes.
I lay my blank on it's side, mark my start and stop locations and depth. I clamp my straight edge to my marks and clamp a few scrap pieces in place to prevent tear out and clamp on my stops. Then I chuck a 1/2" straight bearing bit in my router and cut. Flip the blank over and repeat.


This "chipping" is what you get if you don't clamp a piece on the ends of your cut This is OK here, as it's going to be cut away.

 

[joshb]

The next task is to cut out the cheek piece. I want a good 1/2" radius at the end of my cheek piece so I use a square and compass to redraw that area.

When I cut this, I want to leave the line and a little material on my main stock body for the finish cuts. Off to the band saw.


I'll put the cheek piece aside and clamp my stock back in my jig, after I draw a a 1" offset of the radius line across the top of my blank. I've made two notches in my jig and I clamp my stock in like this:
I chuck a long straight bit in my router and clamp my straight edges to my jig so that I cut the full width of my blank. Then, I nail a 1/4" piece of ply to my jig to stop the edge of my cutter at the edge of my 1/2" radius. I'll use the line I've drawn at 1" offset of that edge across the top of my stock to aid in that measurement. Place your router in the gap and lower your bit until it hits the top of your cheek piece cut. Then, lower it another 1/32.

Route the entire flat area of your cheek piece cut. Pull out your router and check the surface. It should be smooth and flat. If it isn't, lower your router bit another 1/32 and route again. Repeat until your surface is flat and smooth. When it is, chuck a 1" core box bit into your router.

 

[joshb]

Reset your stop so that the center of your bit is at the edge of your 1/2" radius.(where you stopped your flat bit)
Put your router back on the jig and lower your bit until it just touches your smooth cheek piece surface. Route the radius and vertical rear surface.


Now you take your cheek piece and make the bottom smooth and flat. I run mine thru the table saw, take off 1/16 and sand or run it thru my jointer. Then I square the end in my chop saw and sand smooth. Take it back to your jig and clamp it in with the end flush with the end of your jig. Chuck a 1/2" radius bearing bit into your router, set your height to get a full cut and route the end of your cheek piece.

Here is what you should wind up with:

You have extra material in your cheek piece length and height, so you can redo it if you have to.

 

[joshb]

Now is when you decide the final design for your butt. Flat bottom. Angled bottom, thin bottom, etc. If your following my build closely, the top of the butt of your stock is close to being level with your bore. The length of your cheek piece will allow your rifle to cycle. You can easily remove your cheek piece to remove your bolt for cleaning. Your cleaning rod length, handle thickness and technique need to be considered. I've decided to cut 5/8 off the top of mine and angle the bottom of my butt. This blank is 5 1/2" tall so I want to add some wood to the bottom rear of my stock. I used my butt plate template to figure out how much so I cut a piece off my "scrap" and glued it on .
Another thought is a "cap" for the bottom of your grip. Rosewood is a classic. I use Ebony, so I routed a spot out with a straight bit and glued it in place.



Here are some other variations I've done. Notice the slight differences.

 

[joshb]

I have received a few more requests for plans from members that want to "give it a go". I'm sending those out today. If any one decides to do a stock in the future, send me a PM with your address and I'll put a plan in the mail. Josh

 

[Mulligan]

View attachment 1008789

View attachment 1008790
I have received a few more requests for plans from members that want to "give it a go". I'm sending those out today. If any one decides to do a stock in the future, send me a PM with your address and I'll put a plan in the mail. Josh

Thank you!

 

[joshb]

I need to give every body a little news. Early on, I suggested the use of KMW Loggerhead adjustable cheek piece hardware. I've been using it on all my stocks and find it to be a great piece of engineering for a good price. About $60. I sold my last set to a desperate member here and have been trying to order some more for the past few months. I put a call in to Terry Cross today and left a message. He called me back, a few minutes ago. He couldn't have been nicer. He apologized for his lack of stock. It turns out that a "major stock manufacturer" has been buying all he can produce. He is expecting to get a large lot back from the anodizer next week and will be showing them as "in stock" on his website. Be ready to place your orders before they disappear. I'm getting 10 sets. I'll be describing the install in the next few days. If you're doing an ACP, it needs to be installed to finish the stock. Josh

 

[joshb]

Moving forward. I'm taking 5/8 of the top of my butt.

A little push thru the table saw gets that done and I grab my butt plate template. I draw a "center" line 15/16 from the right side of my stock, Mark and drill my screw holes and attach my template.

I transfer the bottom mark to the side of my stock, draw the angle(my random aesthetic choice) of my butt bottom and cut it with my bandsaw.

Then I place my "grip curve template" on my stock, even with the top and trace the curve.
Now you need to make a little pattern I forgot to trace on the plans. It's simple. Here's the plan:

You don't have to be too precise with the curves of the tear drop shape. This pattern is a "guide" for shape. I made mine out of 1/4 ply.
I've drawn my 15/16 butt plate center line on the bottom of my blank and also 1/4" offsets and 3/8" offsets. I align the point to the 15/16 line and the round front to my blank center. I trace it. So It's easier to see, I stick a piece of painters tape under it and cut it out with a razor knife.
I should point out that you can ( and maybe should) keep this template straight and on the 15/16 center line. Form your hand in a "grip holding" position and look down on top of it. Notice the pad of your trigger finger is not on center, but a little off center of your grip in a relaxed state. This is why I make my grip off center from a the blank. Same with the butt being off center. It helps your cheek positioning on the stock. It took me a while to notice the nuances of the original design before I got it. I don't remember why or when I started angling the cap. It's just the way I do it. Feel free to change anything you like around the bones of this build.

 

[joshb]

That will stay there as a guide for sanding. I stay a good bit away from that tape as I form my grip. Slowly working my way in as I make a form that feels good in my hand. It's a guide as to form.
Looking at the left side of my butt plate template, I have 1/2" extra material in my blank. I Mark that 1/2" across my cheek piece cut. Then, using my grip curve template, I trace my curve to that edge, from my side curve Mark.

Now I lay my blank on it's side and lay a square on my grip angle and draw a line.

Then I draw the curve of my "finger groove curve" template onto the side, to get this, using my squared line as a guide. Keep it a hair below your trigger guard line.


You need to make a jig with the finger groove pattern. Copy the pattern onto a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of scrap wood. Nail or screw that to a short piece of 1x6 or 1x8. Any 3/4" material will do. Clamp it to a work surface. Put your 1" or 1 1/4" core box (doesn't matter much) in your router and set the depth to cut 1" deep so that you're cutting a 1/4" deep groove in your stock. Cut the curve into your piece, using your pattern. Now, you can match the curve on your cut to the line you drew on your stock, clamp it down and cut the groove in your stock.

 

[joshb]

I need to add another tool to the list. It's very useful and only costs about $10. I bought this at Lowe's.

It comes with 50, 80 and 120 grit drums. Enough to do a couple stocks.
I pull out my grinder and put a sanding disk on it. 60 or 80 grit will do.

Clamp your blank to a solid work surface and clamp a piece of scrap metal at the tip of your curve as a safety stop. Also, draw the line as I have. You want to use your grinder to remove most of the material in the lined area BUT!! look at the next bunch of pictures before you do to see what your shooting for. Do this slowly and carefully. You can always remove more later. You want to angle slightly away from the grip line on the left. You want a high spot in the middle. Stay inside the lines as best as you can but don't freak if you go a little over. You can recover the edges as it will all be resanded a little bigger, later. Study the pics. I can't stress this enough. You want to slowly pic away at this, especially at the center of this area. Cut too much depth at the center and you can ruin the blank!

 

[joshb]

Now I use my cheap little sanding drum. Keep it moving, gently forming the curves.

 

[joshb]

I've done this a few times, so I'm cutting closer to my finish depths. You should creep up on it a little slower your first time. The idea is to keep flipping your stock around, feeling it in your hand and taking more a little more material as you go.
In this next pic, I've marked the center of the channel I'm sanding. Notice the curve.


On these last two pics, notice I've started forming the front of my grip. In the first one, I've used my big disk sander to sand a 45 degree cut, then used a palm sander with 80 grit to round it off. That long oval I've drawn is a "do not sand" area. It will remain untouched for a while, as a base line. Also notice I've stayed away from the trigger finger groove. I'll hit that with my little drum sander. I'm going to stop work on this side and move to the other. Before I do, I'm going to grip the stock and draw the top edge of my thumb. This whole effort is to make a custom stock that fits you, so form the grip until it feels as natural as possible in your hand.

 

[joshb]

Turning the blank over, I have some wood to remove. The edge of my butt plate template is a half an inch from the side of this blank. I draw a line parallel to my cheek piece cut, 1" down. Then I draw another line 3" off the end of my angle. I want to keep that section.


I chuck a straight bit into my router, set my depth at 3/8" and remove the unwanted material.

Since my router is set up and I've decided my action area is too thick (2 3/8+), I set my depth of cut to 1/8" and Mark my blank for the angle cut. I square across the top of my stock at the rear of my recoil lug cut, Mark both sides of my stock and draw a line on 63 degrees of angle. This will be the edge of my curved cut with my 1 1/4" core box bit. I measure 5/8 " off that line for the edge of my flat bit cut. I'll cut with my flat bit first, then finish with my core box cut. I set up my stops and make the cuts on both sides of my stock, removing 1/8" from each side.


There are three ways to make this detail cut. You can make the cut as I just did. You can add thickness with a laminate on the forend and make your cut thru that thickness or do a little of both. It only depends on your taste and desired use for your stock.