Do it yourself Stock making thread
- Thread starter joshb
- Start date
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
My hardware is a week out, so I'll explain using another stock in the pics.
Mark your centerline from your stock onto your cheek piece.
When you have your hardware in hand, put the lock screw in the base and lightly screw it together. Measure the length of the screw and nut, add whatever extra dimension you added on the stock side and drill your side hole that deep. Lay your stock on it's side and drop the nut in the hole. Orient the squared sides of the nut properly and slide the base into the pocket. If it won't go, drill the hole a tad deeper until the base slides in, then install the screw till it's lightly tight. Your base should now swivel slightly on the screw. Adjust the screws in your top hardware piece to where you want it. It can be adjusted for movement, side to side. I leave about 2/3 of my movement on the left side. Drop your top piece into the lower. Measure your distance from the side of your blank and use that to lay out your cheek piece cut.
Then, clamp your cheek piece in your jig. Set up your straight edges and stops for the route. Use a 1/4 straight cutter for this cut. Add a 1/16 to the length of the cut on each end. Just one tip: Make a shallow cut first and check your fit. Adjust your straight edges to get a snug fit for the width. You want to be able to push the hardware in the slot, forward and back into the extra length, but just barely. It should fit snugly enough so that it won't move when held upside down. This AIDS in the install. When it's right, finish the cut to proper depth. Put the hardware 1/16 below the surface.
Pull the piece from your jig, press your hardware into the cut and drop it into the base in your stock.
If you have a gap, push the cheek piece back towards the rear. Because you have a tight fit, the hardware will hold the position when you gently pull it out to install the screws. If you don't have a tight fit, you can apply painter's tape to the side of the hardware to get it. You can also try to make the top hardware inlet "dead nuts on". Good luck with that. Maybe you'll hit it right. My method shaves an hour off going back in the jig for "recuts", trying to get rid of that 1/16 gap.
Mark your centerline from your stock onto your cheek piece.
When you have your hardware in hand, put the lock screw in the base and lightly screw it together. Measure the length of the screw and nut, add whatever extra dimension you added on the stock side and drill your side hole that deep. Lay your stock on it's side and drop the nut in the hole. Orient the squared sides of the nut properly and slide the base into the pocket. If it won't go, drill the hole a tad deeper until the base slides in, then install the screw till it's lightly tight. Your base should now swivel slightly on the screw. Adjust the screws in your top hardware piece to where you want it. It can be adjusted for movement, side to side. I leave about 2/3 of my movement on the left side. Drop your top piece into the lower. Measure your distance from the side of your blank and use that to lay out your cheek piece cut.
Then, clamp your cheek piece in your jig. Set up your straight edges and stops for the route. Use a 1/4 straight cutter for this cut. Add a 1/16 to the length of the cut on each end. Just one tip: Make a shallow cut first and check your fit. Adjust your straight edges to get a snug fit for the width. You want to be able to push the hardware in the slot, forward and back into the extra length, but just barely. It should fit snugly enough so that it won't move when held upside down. This AIDS in the install. When it's right, finish the cut to proper depth. Put the hardware 1/16 below the surface.
Pull the piece from your jig, press your hardware into the cut and drop it into the base in your stock.
If you have a gap, push the cheek piece back towards the rear. Because you have a tight fit, the hardware will hold the position when you gently pull it out to install the screws. If you don't have a tight fit, you can apply painter's tape to the side of the hardware to get it. You can also try to make the top hardware inlet "dead nuts on". Good luck with that. Maybe you'll hit it right. My method shaves an hour off going back in the jig for "recuts", trying to get rid of that 1/16 gap.
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joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Put some painters tape on the cheek piece to keep your epoxy from sticking to it.
Pull your base piece out of your stock. Mix up a thickened epoxy mix and apply it into the grooves of the base and the ends of your cut. Do not put any mix in the middle, just the ends. Slide the gooped up base back in place and install the locking screw. Clean up any epoxy off the top of the stock and hardware and insert the cheek piece. Hold it down tight to the stock and tighten the side lock screw.
Then I put a clamp on it , top to bottom and let it sit over night. In the morning, I loosen the screw and check the operation of up and down. It should be OK so I press the cheek piece back down in the stock and Mark a line at the top of the rear of the stock onto the cheek piece. I cut that off in my table saw, re install the cheek piece and tighten the screw, hard. Now you continue with the faceting and shaping around the top of the stock, with the cheek piece locked in place. We cut the cheek piece to length after it's shaped. You can take a half inch or so off the front for sanding clearance. Copy the angle cut. Follow the "flare" on the left side of the stock. I let the front of the cheek piece follow that line.
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joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
While still waiting for my hardware, I got bored. I started on the forend and the bottom of my butt on the left side. I like to wait until the butt, cheek piece and grip is done before I finish the fore end because it can get dinged in the clamping process. I'll do my routing and sanding to 120 grit for now and wait to do the fine sanding later.
I chuck up my 1/2 radius bit and set it for a full cut. It's 2" to the edge of my base from my bit, so I clamp a stop at 2" from the the end of my fore end. This is for a 4" flat forend to ride a front rest better. You can round to the tip if that's your preference. I watch my bearing when I get close to the bottom metal pocket and stop just before I lose a surface for it to ride on. I finish the "rounding" by hand after that.
Then I clamp my stock upright and chuck my 15 degree bearing bit in my router. You can choose how deep you want to go. Watch it as you lower the bit and stop when you like it. Stop your cut at the action angle cut and finish the action area by hand, with a palm sander or block sander.
I chuck up my 1/2 radius bit and set it for a full cut. It's 2" to the edge of my base from my bit, so I clamp a stop at 2" from the the end of my fore end. This is for a 4" flat forend to ride a front rest better. You can round to the tip if that's your preference. I watch my bearing when I get close to the bottom metal pocket and stop just before I lose a surface for it to ride on. I finish the "rounding" by hand after that.
Then I clamp my stock upright and chuck my 15 degree bearing bit in my router. You can choose how deep you want to go. Watch it as you lower the bit and stop when you like it. Stop your cut at the action angle cut and finish the action area by hand, with a palm sander or block sander.
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joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Patience, Gary. You'll get there. I booked a fishing trip a year ago, so I have to stop for a bit.
That done, I'll finish sanding the angle and go back to my butt work.
I start with my sanding marks, facet and sand until I can "round", as before.
I'm going to form a gentle curve into my grip area, mainly for looks. I want to leave wood here for strength. Look at the other side in the grip cut and see what I mean. Take too much here and you leave a very thin piece at the butt connection to your grip. For a .223, I'll not worry about "thin". For a "boomer 300 Win Mag" I want more wood left. This stock is for a 308 so I'll go for thicker and leave more material.
That done, I'll finish sanding the angle and go back to my butt work.
I start with my sanding marks, facet and sand until I can "round", as before.
I'm going to form a gentle curve into my grip area, mainly for looks. I want to leave wood here for strength. Look at the other side in the grip cut and see what I mean. Take too much here and you leave a very thin piece at the butt connection to your grip. For a .223, I'll not worry about "thin". For a "boomer 300 Win Mag" I want more wood left. This stock is for a 308 so I'll go for thicker and leave more material.
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joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
We'll have to take a short commercial break as I wait for my hardware. I hear the Redfish are biting in Louisiana.
Back in a week.
You all can continue along. Short of the minor cheek piece final forming cuts and the recoil pad install, we're down to finish sanding , final bedding and the bolt handle cut. Getting close. Josh
Back in a week. You all can continue along. Short of the minor cheek piece final forming cuts and the recoil pad install, we're down to finish sanding , final bedding and the bolt handle cut. Getting close. Josh
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hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
wow looks good
Josh
Great catch, are they good eating??
Never seen one before, we don't have much water around here,
only average 4-6" per year, on a normal year. LOL.
Tia,
Don
Great catch, are they good eating??
Never seen one before, we don't have much water around here,
only average 4-6" per year, on a normal year. LOL.
Tia,
Don
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
They're good. Too good for they're own good. They got severely overfished when the "blackened Redfish" craze swept thru the States back in the 80's. Regulations were enacted and they're making a comeback. Big "Bulls" get to 50" and larger. Lots of fun on light tackle. They put up a good fight. Get down to Venice, La. and give it a try. They tell me July and August are the best months for getting Bulls, but it's too hot for me! That fish had me winning the "pool" until yesterday. My friend got a 44" and put me in 2nd place.
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