Do it yourself Stock making thread

[Twdmar]

Sharp mind! Yes, I did. The way the grain was running, I thought it was best to reinforce it. I cut a 1/8” piece of walnut and glued it to the back with the grain running vertically. It goes 1/2” higher than the bottom of the main piece. You can see it if you blow up the pic of the cheekpiece.

I thought about using a dowel in the grip but I have a bunch of threaded rod left over from another job. I figured stronger was better.
Here’s a blown up pic. You can see the grain change and the joint.
View attachment 1094134

Aah, nicely done! I like it, not an easy solution to pull off it seems to me. Dowel vs threaded rod is probably a moot point

 

[McStocks]

Hey Josh!
I don't impress very easily, so take this as a viable compliment when I say I admire your dedication of doing it the classic way without a duplicator. I just now discovered this thread and have only made it through the first 7 pages and am anxious to read the rest. I don't mean to but in and act like an expert, but if I can help in any way, I'd be happy to.
There was a question about hackberry; it didn't pass my vise-and-hammer test and was discussed in the "stock wood" thread.
Clamping: I'm sure you know this, but for your fans..... the force spreads out at 45 degrees, so adding spacers under the clamps helps the forces overlap (I still use 15 or more clamps for a blank.
I drill holes near the ends of laminate pieces and insert loose fitting dowel pieces to keep them aligned like you do with the nails.
Time to hit the hay.......later,
Steve

 

[joshb]

Hey Steve! Keep reading! Chime in anytime I’ve been woodworking my whole life but I don’t know everything. I only started making stocks a couple years ago. I do furniture, too. I bought a duplicator about a year ago. I use it for some “outsides” but I still inlet in the jigs or by hand. The duplicator wasn’t accurate enough for my tastes.

 

[boltfluter]

Josh,

Fantastic job on the last stock! Really digging that cheek piece you designed. Your making the rest of us look bad!

Paul

 

[joshb]

Thanks for that, Paul. I’m working to get better. I’m going to take a stab at checkering next. I have a long way to go before I can call my self a true stock maker. This is my apprenticeship. I’m trying new things, little by little.
Steve: The main point of the thread was to use as simple a method as possible so that anybody could make a nice stock with a rudimentary collection of tools.
Also, Steve: Do a little research on the transfer of forces thru rigid materials. You get more than 45 degree. I used to be a builder and spent quite a bit of time with engineers. You are right that blocks help, tho.
Here’s a dresser I did. The main case is held together with only dovetails.

 

[heydogman]

Thanks for that, Paul. I’m working to get better. I’m going to take a stab at checkering next. I have a long way to go before I can call my self a true stock maker. This is my apprenticeship. I’m trying new things, little by little.
Steve: The main point of the thread was to use as simple a method as possible so that anybody could make a nice stock with a rudimentary collection of tools.
Also, Steve: Do a little research on the transfer of forces thru rigid materials. You get more than 45 degree. I used to be a builder and spent quite a bit of time with engineers. You are right that blocks help, tho.
Here’s a dresser I did. The main case is held together with only dovetails.
View attachment 1094519
View attachment 1094520[/QUOT

Thanks for that, Paul. I’m working to get better. I’m going to take a stab at checkering next. I have a long way to go before I can call my self a true stock maker. This is my apprenticeship. I’m trying new things, little by little.
Steve: The main point of the thread was to use as simple a method as possible so that anybody could make a nice stock with a rudimentary collection of tools.
Also, Steve: Do a little research on the transfer of forces thru rigid materials. You get more than 45 degree. I used to be a builder and spent quite a bit of time with engineers. You are right that blocks help, tho.
Here’s a dresser I did. The main case is held together with only dovetails.
View attachment 1094519
View attachment 1094520

Nice fit on the drawers and sliding dovetails!

 

[heydogman]

More filing and polishing on the butt plate and it's ready to bed. Than shoot!

 

[joshb]

Nicely done! I like that finish.
Thanks on the dresser. I posted that pic for another reason. The top drawer fronts are made out of a board that had some nice figure to it. They’re rare in Cherry but you can find one if you look hard. If I had been into stock making when I made that dresser, that board would have been in a stock, not the dresser!

 

[heydogman]

Nicely done! I like that finish.
Thanks on the dresser. I posted that pic for another reason. The top drawer fronts are made out of a board that had some nice figure to it. They’re rare in Cherry but you can find one if you look hard. If I had been into stock making when I made that dresser, that board would have been in a stock, not the dresser!

I see it. I have about 50bf of 1" curly cherry. It's turned a dark red on it's own. I used some of it to make a custom show truck bed. Maybe after the curly birch I will make a laminated stock from it. Curly cherry really looks best on a large surface though, IMHO.

 

[joshb]

I hear you. I’ve been to a lot of high end custom furniture shops and seen some gorgeous slabs used for table tops. I’m also guilty of wanting to cut them up into stock blanks.

 

[McStocks]

I would use the "double bar" clamps when possible.

 

[joshb]

I would use the "double bar" clamps when possible.

Steve! I had to look hard to figure out why that piece wasn’t hitting the floor! I like the big barclamps too!
Please tell me more about this “glue” you use?


PS: What year is the Corvette? Nice!

 

[TrxR]

What are you all using for glue when laminating?

 

[Twdmar]

What are you all using for glue when laminating?

I've used titebond 3 on walnut because it makes a brown and nicely small glue line. Titebond 2 for lighter colored woods. I havent used epoxy for stocks but have used it now limbs. Wood glue is much easier to work with and I dont have to worry about starving the joint of glue.

 

[heydogman]

Only three board glue up but I used old fashion Hide Glue with no clamps. Sometimes the old way is hard to beat.

 

[joshb]

I have a new one going. Bumblebee. My first commercial laminate. Your warning was timely, Steve. Thanks! I’m using my respirator.

Waiting on bottom metal.

 

[McStocks]

Yes, Josh, but I really should have specified respirator like you used.
We used Weldwood brand resin glue - it's a powder you mix with water. Kept it warm with a light bulb and a "tent". It sets up like concrete; if you don't get it off your hands, it takes several days to wear off!! The bad news is they don't make it anymore, but I've heard there are other brands out there.
It's a 1976!

 

[McStocks]

I think those commercial laminates are worse for your health. As a FYI, for weight I always figured they're about 4 ounces heavier than solid wood in a standard pattern stock. Someone asked about tool wear, etc. We figured about 3-4 stocks on the main router bit, 3/4" x 1" long, center cutting carbide, and 2-3 stocks with the Rutland Plywood laminates before I sharpened them.

 

[heydogman]

I've named this one the chameleon. Depends on the sun as to what color it will be. It's done except the shooting and buffing. Really enjoyed it.

 

[joshb]

Sweet!