Dillon press ripping out case rims

[UndFrm]

I have been using the Dillon 550 with different calibers and the respective shell plates.
Only on the 6mm Dasher, it has ripped out rims of 3 cases (different batch of brass). Any idea what might be causing it and what can I do to fix it?

I have progressively increased the amount of imperial wax, but still does it. It doesn't do this all the time, but enough times that I have to make this post.

Thank you

 

[NZ_Fclass]

If the lube is OK, then its a die problem.

I use a Wilson die for Alpha brass in an Alpha chamber - no issue - and on a Dillon 550B. Dashers are strange creatures, as there's no SAAMI spec. and brass and chambers do vary

It possible that your chamber and die differ enough to cause problems.

 

[kelbro]

Have you tried a different shellplate?

I run a few Dillons and have seen bad tolerances on some aftermarket brands of shellplates.

Edited to correct terminology

 

[ELR LVR]

I have been using the Dillon 550 with different calibers and the respective shell plates.
Only on the 6mm Dasher, it has ripped out rims of 3 cases (different batch of brass). Any idea what might be causing it and what can I do to fix it?

I have progressively increased the amount of imperial wax, but still does it. It doesn't do this all the time, but enough times that I have to make this post.

Thank you

Try Boot Gear Mink Oil - (got mine at Walmart for like 6 bucks)
Has better cohesive properties than most any other lube out there, including Imperial
and Imperial is really good stuff, Mink Oil is about 3x times better for not getting stuck cases
---
I thin it down with Naptha in a spray bottle and spray down about 50 cases at a time in a ziplock bag
when I am working the Dillon 650
No issues with 223 and Mink Oil
---
Just one more reason I like and use Mink Oil, for the ability to thin it down and use in a spray bottle
I tumble my brass in media after to get the lube off just like with Imperial
---
You might also polish the inside of your die to ensure it is smooth as silk
---
At least you haven't broken a shell holder yet, (I did that once)

 

[NZ_Fclass]

Have you tried a different shellholder?

I run a few Dillons and have seen bad tolerances on some brands of shellholders.

Shellholders on a Dillon?? Something I don't know?

 

[64Rambler]

You might also polish the inside of your die to ensure it is smooth as silk

Agreed! A bit of Iosso on a bore mop in a drill does wonders for the smoothness of a die.

 

[danny]

Try Boot Gear Mink Oil - (got mine at Walmart for like 6 bucks)
Has better cohesive properties than most any other lube out there, including Imperial
and Imperial is really good stuff, Mink Oil is about 3x times better for not getting stuck cases
---
I thin it down with Naptha in a spray bottle and spray down about 50 cases at a time in a ziplock bag
when I am working the Dillon 650
No issues with 223 and Mink Oil
---
Just one more reason I like and use Mink Oil, for the ability to thin it down and use in a spray bottle
I tumble my brass in media after to get the lube off just like with Imperial
---
You might also polish the inside of your die to ensure it is smooth as silk
---
At least you haven't broken a shell holder yet, (I did that once)

How fast does tumbling (or vibrating) with Mink oil on cases ruin the media?

Danny

 

[kelbro]

Shellholders on a Dillon?? Something I don't know?

Shellplate is the correct term. I've seen some that were out of spec and the cases looked like those in the pix.

 

[243winxb]

If die has a vent hole ("weephole") open it.

RCBS 2 case lube. Avoid wax build up.

 

[6MMsteve]

hyd lock, shell holder seems to be doing it's job, keep the die clean. u prolly already know all this...have no clue dirty die is all I can come up with, unless you have issues with linkage something loose binding

 

[Rwfish]

Are you cleaning brass before sizing? I’ve run into this with wet cleaning. When I tumble in dry media they run thru the die much smoother with less lube….

 

[Webster]

Are you cleaning brass before sizing? I’ve run into this with wet cleaning. When I tumble in dry media they run thru the die much smoother with less lube….

Don't know. You must be using a lot of force to exract the case from the die. Try lubing with some kind of petroleum oil.

 

[Ron IA]

LUBE

 

[6MMsteve]

I always clean the brass, clean the nks, clean the die, before I reload, I've stuck a few by not doing this and I use wax lube stuff only lube the lower 2/3 of case just below shoulder

 

[divingin]

If you are using a standard type die, figure out if it's the case sticking to the die walls, or if the expander ball is hanging up as it comes back out. The former points to lube or die roughness issue; the latter a lack of lube inside the case neck.

 

[mongo chicago]

Do you lube the whole case and not just the neck and shoulders? Is it possible (since it doesn't happen all the time) that an occasional case gets by you without enough lube?

 

[M-61]

Naptha

NAPHTHA

 

[neckturner]

or if the expander ball is hanging up as it comes back out.

There's basically zero chance of this happening on the expander ball on the way out.

The OP says they're using a lot of lube, so it's a rough die.

I'd send it back and ask for a polish, most die manufacturers will do this.

 

[Mastershot]

I only resize my dasher brass on a single stage press.

 

[divingin]

There's basically zero chance of this happening on the expander ball on the way out.

The OP says they're using a lot of lube, so it's a rough die.

I'd send it back and ask for a polish, most die manufacturers will do this.

I've stripped the expander ball off the decapping rod on withdrawal. It can hang up pretty securely. Just because you haven't experienced it doesn't mean it can't happen.