Nothing good could come from that!
Glue a dowel rod in there ASAP!
GOOD GAWD MAN, who taught you how to reload!?@#
Some people should never be allowed to reload. It can be a very dangerous hobby.
Nothing good could come from that!
Glue a dowel rod in there ASAP!
GOOD GAWD MAN, who taught you how to reload!?@#
Wow! Great advice! I will give it a try. What are the lot #s for yellow and green. Does it matter if the rifling is button type or cold hammered?Pop!....
Not necessarily true my friend!.... on the left side of the bullet on a right hand twist you are 100% spot on ..... However!..... on a left hand twist you have to use a new yellow marker put on very liberally as it’s lighter than red ...... of course on the right side of the bullet!.... and anything slower than 14 twist must be green marker all the way around the bullet with a red barber twist!...
Wayne
weight it than measure and sort accordingly.
Can i git me one of 'em hole mover kits....who has 'em? Sinclair? Graf an sons?, midway?
Sorry Amigo. Those were banned and confiscated at a Super Shoot some years back when technology advanced to where they could be deployed, moving holes remotely.
Rumor has it a few escaped de-milling and are still floating around.
In my experience, marking the bullet with a sharpie, along the ogive will compensate for mis-aligned headstamps. The farther out of alignment they are, the wider the sharpie mark has to be. Trial and error will determine the optimal width of the mark. However, bullet weight, framistroft factor and bleferization can also influence the width of the mark.
I was refurbing an old oak bullet caddy and didn't notice this until I was applying Tung oil, but one of the holes (bottom left) is a definite flyer. So the question is, could this errant position on the caddy influence that round to be a flyer on paper?
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I forgot about the turbulator constant. Ugh....back to the drawing board....Don't forget the Turbulator Constant, it helps the Framistroft Factor co-loquate with the Bleferization matrix.