Correct usage of Tempilaq for annealing.

[Metal God]

Correct , it would take much longer if the heat source was only 600* and would heat if not the entire case to 600 degrees it would heat down the case body to far at to high a temp to be safe to fire . It’s the very reason you have to heat past 600* . I heat mine to 750 for a few seconds using a heat souce at 3600 degrees and you heat yours to 1k for 1sec with a heat source much hotter then a propane torch . Your machine also heats all sides at once , my method only heats one side as you turn the case .

My test showed if I spun the case to slow in a hot flame and only had one small mark on the case . As the case turned the mark could pass my view and not be melted but by the time it got back around it was totally melted indicating at least with that case I likely past the intended temp and got it to hot or at minimum that case may not be stress relieved the same as the others .

I freely admit the torch and socket method is not the best way and if not done with care and attention to the details your results could come out quite inconsistent. It is IMHO better then many other ways like heating the necks up until they change colors . At least when you use a temp indicator you have a reasonable expectation you are hitting a specific temperature.

 

[whatsupdoc]

Tempilaq 750 plain sucks, it is difficult to determine the correct temperature indication as it never turns into a liquid per the instructions. I have tested it by applying it on a temp probe and heating the probe slowly while observing the probe temperature and tempilaq state. The tempilaq darkens and finally turns black,

Need to try a higher temperature like 800f or 850f tempilaq to see if it produces a more positive indication.

I also believe the 750F number is what I call internet parrot syndrome. Someone posts a number on the internet and all the parrots repeat it as if it was a fact.

 

[rwj]

I also believe the 750F number is what I call internet parrot syndrome. Someone posts a number on the internet and all the parrots repeat it as if it was a fact.

The following research paper is offered for your consideration... https://www.academia.edu/21283133/Recrystallization_Behavior_of_70_30_Brass

The two most revealing charts regarding the interaction between temperature, time, and % cold work, and their impact on hardness, are attached...

 

[Webster]

I am using the 750 F Tempilaq for this purpose. The instruction on the bottle says that it “will liquefy at stated temperature”. Unfortunately, I hand anneal by putting the case in a socket and rotating with a hand drill so kind of hard to see the liquefaction when it is moving.

What I find is illustrated in the photo of two 223 rejects that I tested the Tempilaq on. The one on the right is the case with the Tempilaq painted on and dried but un-annealed. The one on the left is the same except it has been annealed. It looks to me that the Tempilaq when it liquefies will evaporate. Does this look right to you guys with experience?

I anneal with one torch. 5 seconds in the flame. All I know is that it works. I get long case life no split necks. If it doesn’t meet someone’s standard I don’t care. Done metallurgical failure ananysis for 45 years. Annealed many case. Necks under controlled temp and done micro hardness.

 

[David101]

It’s interesting you say that because in some ways, I’ve come full circle. What I mean is I started with the crayon a while ago but could not get them to work. The reason is when I got my crayons, what I found was sticks that seemed very dry almost powdery. At first, I thought you were supposed to use the crayons to write on the cases and then watch for it to melt, but then I realized that they work by writing only surfaces that are heated to the correct temp.

One difficulty I had with this is that it seems to require just one hand more than I had and I don’t seem to be able to get the crayon on to the brass before it cooled, this was the impetus for me to go to the liquid. So obviously I am likely not using the right technique?

I found a similar problem using the sticks. I then experimented with them a bit and found that you could crush them up and they would dissolve in alcohol (metho/ ethenol) and then they could be painted on the same as the liquid. The color change was actually easier to see than the green/grey of the liquid.

 

[Shooter13]

The best was to use Temilaq is to seal it in a bag so if you break the bottle it doesn't get all over everything else, then get the AMP annealer out and get the job done quickly and correctly!! (just giving you a hard time) ;-) I tried the flame annealers but being an old fireman I just couldn't stand the remote possibility of fire and gun powder in the same room.