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Cleaning rods and jags

MS50

Gold $$ Contributor
Another rehash of a beat down issue. I'm putting together a 6br that I intend to baby more than my Savage carbon steel barrels. I currently use a universal bore guide, pro shot rods and jags. These rods are whippy, but I'm careful with their use. My limited knowledge tells me that the crown is the most critical area of concern when cleaning a barrel. That said, it seems to me that a rigid rod (stainless or otherwise), quality jags, and a quality bore guide are the keys to preserving the crown. It seems to me that rod rigidity is more important than rod coatings. Are there any opinions on jag and brush makes that exit the barrel with the least potential for crown damage? I usually use nylon brushes. I use the pierced patch technique. I always remove the jag or brush when it exits the barrel. I will get a Sinclair or Lucas bore guide for the 6br. Thanks for any feedback.
 
I have never used a Proshot stainless steel rod so I do not know how flexible they are or are not. I do use their pierce style jag and am happy with them. I switched from a Dewey coated rod to an Ivy stainless steel rod and have been very happy. They are made from quality materials. I have them from 17 caliber up to 6mm. They are very straight and while anything that small in diameter will flex, I have never had one that didn't stay perfectly straight. The only complaint I have is that the lady that answers the phone is a rabid Bears fan but the quality of the products more than makes up for her poor taste!! 😊 I see no reason to remove the jag. Remove the patch and pull it back. I don't see how that can ruin a crown. Can't beat a Lucas guide.
 
The Ivy stainless steel rod is polished so it won't scratch. I've used one on my Dasher for 1500 rds and its as accurate as day one. If you want a coated rod look at the Bore stix from Bore Tech , they are a sponsor of the U.S. F-Class team.

This 'bore rider' brush attachment right here is great for keeping your nylon brush centered up around the muzzle preventing damage. And Mr. Leidich is a great person to do business with.

http://www.accurateshooter.com/gear-reviews/polymer-jags/
 
Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to check out the stainless rods and polymer jags. It makes sense. I've always felt that my coated rods were flexing, despite using a bore guide. My concern is the jag and brush passing the crown in a canted position. I've got a Gun Slick stainless rod for my 308, but set it aside when I read about coated rods, etc. It's very heavy and rigid, and is probably OK to use, especially with a bore guide.
 
Dollar for dollar, Dewey or Pro Shot stainless rods are the best on the market. I use both. I don't agree with the universal bore guide though. The crown is important but you can wreck the throat with a sloppy rod/guide fit. Get a Lucas bore guide
 
Pro shot has coated rods as well. There's nothing wrong with either of their rods whether coated or not. I have several of both. They work great and no flex, you've got to use the right size jag and patch combination. As stated...Lucas bore guides hands down some of the best on the market. They are action and caliber specific.
 
http://www.boreriderbarrelcareproducts.com/p/jags.html

Get the correct jag for your rod and caliber. Just call him after you get rods.

https://deweyrods.com

The length you need depends on your rifle length.

And last but not least, the MOST important part, Lucas bore guide
Order from:
Mike Lucas

Please use E-mail if possible.

225 Browns River Road
Lexington, SC 29072
email: lucasmjb@windstream.net
Email Orders Accepted



Get these items and you'll have a great cleaning system that will outlast all of us.
 
MS50 said:
I've always felt that my coated rods were flexing, despite using a bore guide.

All rods will flex a bit.

My concern is the jag and brush passing the crown in a canted position.

From reading the rest of your stuff, it appears that you are cleaning (correctly) from the breech end.

How much "cant" do you think is possible for the jag or brush to have as it leaves the muzzle?
 
I agree I'm down in the weeds on this issue. I intend to pay attention to this as I'll have a new 6br barrel and want to protect it as much as possible. Not arguing your point, but here's my thoughts. If the jag isn't canted, or not in the center of the bore as it exits/enters the crown, how does damage occur? My stainless rods are very rigid, yet I can hear/feel them dragging on the bore as it slides through. My coated rods are very flexible, I can't hear/feel anything. I know they're dragging, but are silent due to the coating. I've been wiping both styles between passes down the bore. This makes sense to clean the rod frequently. I'll use a rod guide insert to help avoid flex in the rod. I believe a custom rod guide with insert will protect the throat area. I'm not convinced that a rod guide with insert will ensure that the rod is in the center of the bore as it exits the crown, unless the rod is very rigid to start with. My plan is to use a rigid rod, guide with insert, and be careful. Thanks for all the feedback.
 
For the purists among us (those that shoot competition or just shoot for accuracy as the #1 goal) a patch is never drawn back through the bore. This means a serrated style jag (as opposed to a loop style) is used . When the patch clears the muzzle and the rod is reversed, the patch falls off and results in contact with the crown.......this is where damage "can" occur. IMHO the average non-competitive shooter never cleans enough to cause damage IF a good rod, jag, brush and technique are employed. A bore guide does nothing to prevent crown damage - it prevents damage to the action end of the barrel and keeps crap out of the trigger and bedding. Proper patch fit-to-bore and technique is everything...if you see someone using a rod like their playing " The Orange Blossom Special" as if playing a fiddle or struggling to push the patch through.....you can see how wrong that is. If you see someone using a rod with absolutely no arc in the rod as they back it out- and can push the rod without chatter (no herky- jerky motion) well they have a clue as to cleaning without doing damage.
 

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