Chamber flush system build log.

[tobnpr]

Just need some steel mesh for the catch pan.

Why?
Take a neodymium magnet, stick it in a thick ziploc-type bag, and place it in front of the overflow for the pan.
VERY nice job with the braided hoses and fittings. WIsh I hadn't seen it, now I gotta upgrade...
Couple questions...using steel screws for the muzzle fitting isn't damaging the barrel? And which part is the rotary union? Looks like all compression fittings to my novice eye...

 

[cheyenne01]

Yes. All re usable fittings. I have magnets in the pan. Was just going to put a screen on top to catch the larger pieces.
The screws i made with brass tips.
I also have made adapters to thread onto muzzle brake threads. And the other and a #6. Jic fitting.
After i see what improvements it needs i will likely bend out some custom catch pans.
The rotary union is from a pressure washer

 

[Walt Krafft]

That rotary may not be up to the speed of the lathe. If it fails it will make a mess.

 

[LVLAaron]

a yuuuge mess waiting with that coupler.

 

[BuffaloBill]

I watch eBay for good buys on rotary unions.

NEW DUFF NORTON 480002 ROTARY UNION 3/8" & 1/2" | eBay

We do not buy direct from the manufacturers or from authorized dealers. The serial numbers in the pictures are covered to prevent mischief by hackers or others that want to cause harm. The item is sold as is.

www.ebay.com

 

[cheyenne01]

Well the coupler was all i could get. Its better than an air line couplers. I do have an actual rotary union on order.

 

[tobnpr]

Keep in mind also that as pictured, there's no adaptability for barrels of different lengths.
When you change out the union, consider making up a longer length of hose (assuming it's quite flexible) that'll reach to a barrel at the end of the spider. I'd use 90 degree fittings at both ends leaving a "loop" of hose that'll be infinitely adjustable to any barrel length. JMO.

Good luck.

 

[Bill Rodolph]

Pro Tip: If you hook your 120 volt pump up to 240 volts, it doesn't last very long.

No need to ask me how I know

 

[cheyenne01]

Keep in mind also that as pictured, there's no adaptability for barrels of different lengths.
When you change out the union, consider making up a longer length of hose (assuming it's quite flexible) that'll reach to a barrel at the end of the spider. I'd use 90 degree fittings at both ends leaving a "loop" of hose that'll be infinitely adjustable to any barrel length. JMO.

Good luck.

The whole arm slides. The barrel in there was 34 inches. And the arm will slide all the way up for a 22 inch barrel.

 

[Judd]

I’ve started ordering stuff, between my mentor and Aaron…I can’t take anymore of the peer pressure

With the comments of soaking shops, why not put a check valve between the air connection and the main line? Seems that would prevent oil getting in your airline and if disconnected, soaking your shop?

I have this in my cart, am I thinking straight?

Hydraulic Check Valve 1/2" NPT Pump Oil 3000psi no Return Valve Single Way (1/2") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SLHVDNL?tag=accuratescom-20

 

[V35]

I’ve started ordering stuff, between my mentor and Aaron…I can’t take anymore of the peer pressure

With the comments of soaking shops, why not put a check valve between the air connection and the main line? Seems that would prevent oil getting in your airline and if disconnected, soaking your shop?

I have this in my cart, am I thinking straight?

Hydraulic Check Valve 1/2" NPT Pump Oil 3000psi no Return Valve Single Way (1/2") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SLHVDNL?tag=accuratescom-20

thats how mine is, works great.

 

[LVLAaron]

FWIW: @Judd - I didn't plumb anything for air. Seemed like a lot of trouble/risk and I'm not upset I skipped it.

 

[tobnpr]

Air?

 

[Hal]

I thought about building an oil flush system with a 3 way valve.
Oil in the left position, neutral and oil bipass,in the middle, and low pressure air in the right position.

Still in the planning stages behind a long list of projects.

Hal

 

[Walt Krafft]

If your lathe has a coolant system, just start with that. If you need one, McMaster or Grainger sell ready to go systems. You really dont need a lot of pressure if your reamers are set up for it.

 

[LVLAaron]

If your lathe has a coolant system, just start with that. If you need one, McMaster or Grainger sell ready to go systems. You really dont need a lot of pressure if your reamers are set up for it.

The pump on my lathe wouldn't move oil for more than 10 seconds; I replaced it and it works fine. Deets are somewhere in this thread.

 

[DaveTooley]

It would be very difficult/time consuming for me if I didn't have air. I have air piped all over the shop so mine is a permanent setup. A foot valve from eBay cost almost nothing.
air to foot valve, to needle valve, to check valve, T into oil supply line.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I use a water soluble gun drilling fluid made by Castrol. Clean and odor free, enough flows through the barrel that I don't blow it out until the chamber is finished and I remove the coupling from the barrel. The fluid looks like a light oil.

 

[X Count]

I have air plumbed in along with the cutting fluid. Air and fluid both have their own shut off valve and there is no other valve down stream. ie no restriction that would cause the two to back flow and mix IF both isolation valves were open at the same time.

When we refer to $hit going everywhere. That happens when you shut off the liquid valve but there is still liquid in the hose and barrel. If you open the air valve flat out the air compresses behind the liquid and evacuates itself very quickly. Simple solution is to just open the air valve slowly to push the fluid out and once that is done you can go full throttle. I also use a shroud over the reamer that captures 99% of the fluid when cutting and flushing and directs it back into the collection tray.

40psi seems to be a good number when cutting and flow requirement varies depending on reamer size. From memory around 2G/m is enough for mid size cartridges.