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Chamber flush system build log.

I use a 1/4" NPT hydraulic hose about 16" long with my rotary union mounted on a stand. On the end of it I have a 1/4 to 1/8 reducing bushing. Then brass nipples as they get used up. That lets me reach up inside the spindle.

Are you threading the crown end with an NPT tap and threading in your hose?
Like this but Dave uses a hose in between the rotary and the reducer/nipple. I've seen a picture of his stand/hose setup in a thread somewhere before. If you have a long headstock or a really short barrel you can use a longer 1/8" nipple to extend up into the spindle.

Edit: Found that picture of Dave’s setup.

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Like Walt said, you don’t need any filters. This is a diaphragm pump, not a gear pump. Most of the shavings stay in the catch pan and the rest settle in the reservoir. If anything left does flow thru it won’t won’t hurt the pump. The pressure relief valve is also redundant since it’s built into the pump.
 
Appreciate all the great input and comments.

I've got a single hydraulic 10 micron filter and housing coming, along with a 3 gallon tank, and a set of NPT taps from MSC.
 
There isn't a faster or easier barrel connector that the GreTan BTS. You don't have to tap the inside of the muzzle and it doesn't leak.
It's what I use. I don't like inserting it in a sharp crown as it will cut the rubber inside. I have replacements and had to replace it once in the past 3 years or so. I do notice the oil makes the runner harder and would be more prone to leaking. They are made from an air blow gun tip.
 
Appreciate all the great input and comments.

I've got a single hydraulic 10 micron filter and housing coming, along with a 3 gallon tank, and a set of NPT taps from MSC.
MSC might have a huge selection, but they are one of the highest priced industrial suppliers out there. Pipe taps are basic tools, you should be able to buy those at a much lower cost from another industrial supply house.
 
It's what I use. I don't like inserting it in a sharp crown as it will cut the rubber inside. I have replacements and had to replace it once in the past 3 years or so. I do notice the oil makes the runner harder and would be more prone to leaking. They are made from an air blow gun tip.
I wasn't about to pay Gre-Tans price for his flush attachment, so I made one in about an hour for $30. A chunk of aluminum from the scrap, spring, swivel connection, flange washer, hose and a couple of 1/4" NPT lock nuts from the hardware, rubber blowgun tips from E-Bay. Those few things and a bit of time and imagination.
 
I just use rubber hoses for my connection to barrel different bore diameters to suit different barrel profiles.screw on 1/4 bsp fittings with different fittings welded on to suite hose.two jubilee clips and sorted.works great.
 
The gretan coupler is the one i see blown off most often. Thats why i started tapping the barrels

That thing is a big "nope" from me. I can see pushing the reamer in, pressure going up, and everything left of me in the shop getting a bath.

I'll either tap the barrel, or make an adapter to use silicon hose and clamp it over the end of the barrel.
 
I've never had BTS blow off. It's leaked 1 time and why I keep a pan underneath. It might blow off if you have a 10 gpm pump but then that should be expected. It works pretty well unless the barrel is short and barely reaches outboard spider.
If your that worried a wrap of tape on barrel keeps the nylon screws from being able to slip on barrel.
 
That thing is a big "nope" from me. I can see pushing the reamer in, pressure going up, and everything left of me in the shop getting a bath.

I'll either tap the barrel, or make an adapter to use silicon hose and clamp it over the end of the barrel.

You shouldn't be running that high of pressure. Our pump is set at about 80 PSI--which is too high by at least double--amd even at 80 the GreTan hold just fine.
 
I've never had BTS blow off.
This. I can't pull it off the end of the barrel if I try. If it blows off, it wasn't properly installed.
Then again, I'm only running 45 psi max there. I wouldn't use it with a high pressure pump.

Far as not needing a filter, I'll stick with it...
Even though I'm using an actual coolant tank with baffle separating the return area, and it's not likely with a low flow volume that chips would cross over- my concern was never about damaging the pump/impeller, it's about grabbing an errant chip when reinserting the reamer. Even with prefilters/magnets in the catch tray some stuff gets by- esp stainless where the magnets are useless.
 
Did a test this morning. The last time I did a complete DCR of my coolant system was January. Have done around 200 barrels since then. This morning I turned on the coolant and let it run for 5 minutes. Then I took a sample in a glass jar to see what if anything settled out. After 5 hours not a thing showed up. I don't see a need for any filter. It will only restrict the flow, and flow is the key, not pressure.
 

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