They got wet
I have shot BR-4 primers for years, many different lots, never had a problem.
CCI BR4 primers 60% failed
- Thread starter subninja
- Start date
I have shot BR-4 primers for years, many different lots, never had a problem.
Jarhead6870
Gold $$ Contributor
Did you remove the firing pin assembly AND the ejector plunger and spring from the bolt when installing the barrel and setting headspace? Did you hook the rim of the go-gauge and no-go-gauge under the extractor when closing the bolt to check headspace?
If you failed to do any of the above, you risk headspacing issues when installing barrels using barrel nuts.
If you failed to do any of the above, you risk headspacing issues when installing barrels using barrel nuts.
47WillysGuy
Gold $$ Contributor
I think the OP moved on to Remington br primers.
Early on I put my primed brass in the wet tumbler..... killed every primer but didn’t figure it out until I was at the range. The entire batch of brass was loaded.....big whoops.
Ben
It takes a real man to admit when he has screwed up, lesson well learned.
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searcher
Gold $$ Contributor
It seems your chamber is now far too long to adequately allow proper, full firing pin contact with your primers. When you measured your fired rounds and found the difference to be .004" - that measurement can "lie" to you. The reason is because when your cartridge fires, and the case is not held close to - or against the bolt face when fired - and the shoulder is not blown all the way forward, thereby not able to give you a full measurement of the new chamber. If you seat a bullet extra long (with a 1/5 grain or so powder reduction), the bullet will be forced into the case when the bolt is closed, ensuring a "no slop" condition in the chamber. Don't crimp your bullet when working up this load - as you want the bullet to be able to be pushed into the case when the bolt is forced closed. After firing - measure the case and you will know if this is the problem as the case will measure much longer than your other fired cases - I'm guessing another .006" or more in this case. This is probably the most common problem associated with "bad" primers. With mild loads, it is possible to fire a load many times without the shoulder blowing out fully.
You forgot booze in the instructions no good thought process or fire should occur without thinking fluid !!!
Today I disassembled my bolt and didn’t find anything suspect there ie no rubbing or excessive gunk. I measured what seemed to be pin protrusion at 50 thousandths if I was doing that right. I’m confident the headspace I measured was accurate because I reloaded some of the fired brass without bumping the shoulder and it was pretty tight closing the bolt. I haven’t given up on the br4s I am just limited in the brass I have to mess with. I measured the cases that were second firings and they are still measuring about 4 thousands. On a positive note it shot some fine groups today. Thanks for all the helpful advice and Merry Christmas to all.
One thing you should know is if your problem was lube on the firing pin freezing, you will not find a problem taking it apart at room temperature i.e. the lube will liquefied again when it warms up indoors. The thing is you need to do is to wipe the firing pin and the path it runs in clean and try shooting again.
When I had a few primers fail it was because they were not seated deep enough. Sounds like this is not your problem. My guess is that the first firing of the rifle is like fire forming the cases. The new case dimensions don't match the chamber dimensions well. This allows the case to get pushed forward with the firing pin causing it to lose energy. It can still make a nice dent. I would jam the bullets 5-10 thou to make sure the case head is in contact with the bolt face. I found that setting a priming tool to seat to a fixed depth can sometimes cause problems. I always seat by feel now.
JEFFPPC
Gold $$ Contributor
The PM I sent you has the answer, did you read it?
I never lube a pin or spring. It just slows them down. Matt
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Doesn't have to freeze, just gel up a bit. That can be enough to rob the pin of the speed and energy needed to set things off properly. Clean them thoroughly and run 'em dry.
nmkid
Gold $$ Contributor
Had the same problem with Peterson brass. When they first came out their primer pockets were tight! At least the batch I got! Could not seat the primer below the bottom of the case, no matter how hard I tried. Sent that batch of brass back and the sent me some that were much better. On the second batch I still worked over the primer pocket and never had any firing problems.
You never had a problem until you rebarreled! This alone should be a big clue. Same action, firing pin ect. Now it doesn't work. The factories should get things correct such as firing pin protrusion. The only difference after rebarrling is a new caliber, brass and chamber. 75 replies different comments. I would still try
Don't have a clue what the problem is but you stated you never had a problem with this rifle until it was rebarreled. Same action and firing pin. Every time I had FF it was seating depth.
Things I would do.
1. Buy a primer pocket uniformer. They only cut the bottom of the pocket not the sides. When I uniform Lapua brass a lot of brass chips are removed from some cases and the tool doesn't reach the bottom on some cases. To deep for the tool to reach.
2. Seat primers by feel. There is no correct depth in thousandths. The primer pockets are swaged in place by driving a mandrel into the case head. No machining.
3. If you buy a firing pin spring make sure it's made from a silicon/chrome alloy. This is the alloy used for racing engine valve springs. Music wire springs lose tension rapidly. Cr/Si springs have a very slight drop in tension then hold up for decades. A well known website someone mentioned just says a proprietory alloy. I think guys like Whidden have them.
4. You said the bolt is hard to close? An area to figure out. Case dimensions interfere with chamber dimensions? Never had this problem. I would seat the bullets to touch for the first firing to make sure the case head is against the bolt.
5. Almost all of the friction in the bolt assembly is the cocking piece sliding thru the bolt shroud. Make sure this area is well oiled. My Rem 700 has a lot of polished rubbing marks on the cocking piece. Cannot see inside the shroud.
Good luck. Let us know how you solve the problem.
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Questions: who did the rebarrel? Did they strip the bolt (firing pin assy, ejector, etc.) when screwing down the barrel? Did they check it with a *NO-GO* gauge? How much is the headspace 'growing' from factory ammo / virgin brass (or sized) to fired?
Any progress on the primers not firing? The Xmas break is over.....
hogpatrol
Gold $$ Contributor
Yes, what's the disposition? As far as the break, you wouldn't know it at the gun club today. Everyone and his whatever was out there with their new toys and as unsafe as ever.
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